KU40

High Sd? So just a larger diameter driver? haha. I take it you just want something to belt out the lows between 0-40 hz or so? Your parameters are pretty hard to find by themselves, much less together. Especially the <20 hz Fs in a car audio subwoofer with high excursion. The Dayton Titanic is somewhat close, 20 hz Fs but only 20 mm xmax. The Audiopulse Axis is close, 22 hz and 30 mm. It's $721 on partsexpress.com. The Adire Tumult has 34 mm and 19 hz. Good luck finding one though.

It's officially cold. I've gotten out a pair of tearaway pants to wear over my shorts at night after my shower.

It's a Ford/Mercury, so it has 5x7/6x8 speakers. I just bought some 5x7's and they dropped right into my Explorer's holes. You can make some 6.5" spacers pretty easily. As for the EQ......it depends on how much headache you want vs. how much you think he'll actually use it. You'll have to find out if the EQ has low level and high level inputs and outputs and if the factory amp has low or high level inputs, and you may have to buy one or two LOCs depending on what they each have if they aren't the same.

My mid-grade Alpine is better than the mid-grade Pioneer I had before, and a whole lot better than the entry-to-mid-grade Kenwood I had. That Kenwood was garbage. Absolute night and day difference in sound when I upgraded it to my Alpine. My friend has a clarion and it does pretty good. But I don't know about crossover options and all that, I've never had a deck with them on it. They're all too expensive for my tastes.

I still can't acces my messages to give you a reply doh. But that's ok, no immediate biggie. It was more of a general topic, I wasn't going to employ it on my newest sub/amp creation.

It also depends on your definition of "high bass." What frequencies is that? 60, 80, 100 hz? IMO, a sub shouldn't be crossed over above 80 hz. If your system is lacking in the region anywhere between 75 and 200 hz, you need to address your mids because they aren't up to snuff.

good morning. I haven't seen my gf since last tuesday, and apparently that's a good thing. She's very sick, started out as a sore throat and escalated into can't talk or swallow and yesterday started throwing up. She's back at her parents', so I probably won't see her for a couple more days too. Hope I don't catch that stuff. Made my new box for the Mag this weekend. I used Birch plywood, and I friggin love that stuff. It's so light, my 1 cube box weighs like 12 lbs, compared to like 80 for my 4 cube MDF box I had in there. The whole 4x8 sheet was so stiff too, it didn't flex hardly at all even when only supporting one end. The MDF would darn near touch the ground hanging off the bed of the truck from bending so much. I'll post pics sometime this year. and maybe a review.

the bandpass on the mids is reversed. you want the high pass at 100 and low pass at 3500.

that sub has dual 2 ohm coils. 1.75 is the Re of each coil. Amps and subs alike are rated at nominal loads, which is the dual 2 part. So you putting that sub on that amp would be no different than putting any other dual 2 ohm sub on it.

if you have the alpha version it's under the same tab as frequency response graph. Just above the graph.

how did it get blown? Electrical or mechanical failure?

You definitely need extra batteries. They don't put an extra strain on your alternator. In fact, a much worse strain on the alternator would be if you only had one battery, because once that battery starts getting drained by the system and the voltage drops to 10 volts or whatever, the alternator has more work to do to get it back up to 12 volts. More batteries = closer to a constant 12 volts. They'll store the current you need for prolonged playing. More current capacity = less voltage drop. and dampening, ha. No amount of dampening will save your vehicle from two 18s and 6000 watts. You can try though.

you'll definitely want a wider passband than .3 hz, haha. Aim for about 5 hz or so. That way you have a little room to play with as far as what frequencies will be loudest once you actually get the box inside the vehicle. Otherwise you'll be building box after box after box. And don't forget to look at the impedence graph. If your box is loudest at 42 hz but you have a huge spike in impedence up to 50 ohms at 42 hz, it's not going to be as loud as it could be. Cabin gain will not even it all out. 24 db is way too much difference for cabin gain to help, and not to mention that power handling is probably lower at 41 hz in that box as well.

dropping to 12.7 on a big bass hit isn't too bad. It's probably fine.

Well if it has just started a year after installing it, it's not likely an installation issue. It's more likely an equipment malfunction.

You can't just arbitrarily pick a port length. You need to decide what you want to tune it to and pick the port length from that. So you want your port to be 2" x 11" and 28" long, how big is the box going to be (net, that the sub will see)?

sounds like the alarm has gone bad. If you have a warranty, take it back to Circuit City (better hurry before they go bankrupt and close!).

4.5 cubic feet can eat up all of the floor area in an SUV's cargo area if you want it to, or it can occupy a lot less floor area. As you're planning box dimensions, decide if you would rather have a tall box that leaves a lot of open floor area, or if perhaps a box that takes up the entire floor would be better. If it took up the entire floor, you could make into sort of a false floor and put pieces of wood from the sides of the box to the sides of the cargo area so that you have a flat surface on which to put things. It would basically just be like your normal floor but raised up 12" or so. The problem if you make it somewhere in the middle is the problem I have now- You either have to squish things between the box and the vehicle walls or set it on top of the box but there isn't much room.

did the voltage drop at all when the auto parts stores were testing it? Simplify this thing down a little and go step-by-step. Turn off the radio so that none of the amps are on. Sit there idly and see if the voltage fluctuates. Then turn the A/C on and see if it fluctuates. Then add headlights and other systems to put more of a strain on and see. Then go back and disconnect the remotes on all of the amps so that they won't turn on when you turn the radio on. Only the head unit and EQ should turn on then. See how the voltage reacts. Then add the remote wire back into one amp at a time and see how the voltage reacts. Between adding each amp, start with the volume all the way down, and then raise it up to maximum listening level. That way you can see if one individual amp is causing something or if it's just overall load. Also disconnect the cap for this test, and add it back in at the very end after everything else has been tested. Are you reading the voltage from the cap or from your vehicle's voltmeter when you notice these problems? If reading it from the cap, don't trust it.

Woke up this morning and thought it was Wednesday. But it's not. darn. First post in replacement hop.

The 6th order will have higher efficiency than a ported box. I've never heard of a bandpass lowering power handling any differently than a ported box. But that could just mean I haven't heard it. winISD doesn't show it lowering overall power handling, but it has curves lower than tuning just like a ported box so they behave similarly in that fashion. So of course it depends on tuning as to where it will unload, just like a ported box.

You cannot generalize like this. Every amp and head unit combination will yield a different gain setting. The gain is set to match the head unit's voltage. That's it. If you have a head unit that puts out 6 volts and your amp's gain goes from 0.5-6 volts, you'll need to have the gain completely down. If the head unit puts out .5 volts, you may need to have it all the way up. Setting the phase to 150 is also generalized, and 99% of the time will be incorrect. You set the phase of the sub to match the interior speakers and what sounds best. Every vehicle will be different in its acoustics, as will every sub/box combo and interior speaker relationships. It doesn't matter if you have two subs, they will always be in phase with each other as long as you wired them correctly, and they should be. If you wire one out of phase with the other in the same box, it won't work. It's just like switching polarity on interior speakers to get them to sound right with each other.

It really depends on the manufacturer. some manufacturers use the same motor, spiders, and everything, on the different size subs in a line (except the cone and surround) to make it easier on them. In that case, the Mms increases, Fs changes, lots of other things change. So different size subs in the same line can easily sound different. But other manufacturers tweak each size's parts so that all of the sizes perform relatively similar. But larger woofers play lower because of the increased swept volume and a generally lower Fs.

Indeed. and I have heard plenty of unsnappy 10s.

2.00 first round through. edit: oh wait, 2.82 for the 3 round total average.