KU40

You can't just say stock alt and stock battery, you have to tell us what size they are. Quite a big difference between a stock 70 amp alternator on a honda civic and a 160 amp alternator on a truck. You HAVE to fuse the wire from the battery to the amp within 12-18" from the battery. That fuse is in place to protect the wire, not the amp. If the wire between the battery and amp shorts out, you need a fuse there to blow and stop sending current otherwise your car will burn down.

I don't know anything about the tires, never heard of anything about them. But I can tell you this was not the tires' fault at all. The one in the top pictures with the cuts on the sidewall was ran flat. You can tell because there's a little indentured/wear ring in the middle of the sidewall. That only happens when a tire is ran flat because of the way the sidewall bends when it has no air and how the rim exerts pressure from the weight of the car on the tire. Also, no tire regularly wears like that on just one side. That's all the suspension's fault.

No, I want him to take the head unit out of the whole equation first. Go to radio shack and get a headphone jack to male RCA adapter. Then plug your mp3 player into the amp with that. What do you mean tell the two ends on the RCA from each other? One end goes to the head unit, the other to the amp. The two leads are just right and left channel signals, and they're color coded blue and black. Doesn't matter which one you plug into which channel.

FWIW it is really best to model the system in an enclosure program, check the impedance graph, find the lowest impedance by frequency and run tones at or around this frequency. The point at which the dynamic impedance is lowest is the point at which the amplifier will be delivering the most power. Also, it is worth noting, the sub will typically reach it's lowest dynamic impedance at or around the enclosure's tuning frequency in the case of a ported box. But it must be stressed that just because the system is not putting out the birthsheet power of 1700 watts doesn't mean you can turn up the gains any more. Dynamic impedance will actually never reach the manufacturer rated RE... or I should say, I have never seen a case where it has. But just because the system will not make the rated 1700 watts, doesn't mean you can turn the gains up to that point. If you turn the gains up beyond the point where clipping occurs, it will clip no matter what the measured output actually is. Realize that the reason you can't always get the full rated output is because of the impedance increase. If you just pick, say, 40 hz to try and check output power, and find that your sub has an impedance of 2 ohms at that level, there's no way to get the full 1700 watts at that frequency without heavy clipping. If your amp is rated at 750 watts at 2 ohms and 1500 watts at 1 ohm, you can't try for the 1500 watts just because you have your subs wired for a 1 ohm load at the amp. The actual impedance at 40 hz would be 2 ohms, so you could expect 750 watts. If you try to increase the gain to get 1500 watts at that frequency, you will drive your amp well into clipping. If you want to get full output, it's not a bad idea to hook up an oscilloscope and run a test sweep over the frequency range of the sub to see if the amp clips anywhere along there before turning the gain up to get more power. And again, you need a clamp meter. That's why when people say they have tested the output of the amplifier, they say they clamped the amp.

4 ported is easily louder than 6 sealed. But if you're wanting to overpower the speakers so much (over 2000 watts per sub), you're barking up the wrong tree with the Q. You will fry them.

Yesterday I did 6 leg lifts and 4 miles on the bike. Also a quick one-time set of pullups and pushups.

Make sure the head unit doesn't have the fader favoring one side over the other.

Ask him what happened when it stopped playing. He had to have noticed it. Sounds like the sub is not the issue. You have a start. Make sure all the connections on the amp are secure. Then try plugging in a different source to the amp, like plug in an mp3 player straight to it.

if you want to know wattage, you need a clamp meter. Just realize that at every frequency the amp will be putting out different amounts of power because the sub's impedance changes with frequency. So with the same gain setting you may be getting 500 watts at 40 hz but 1000 watts at 60 hz.

If you think your filters might be set wrong, why not tell us how you set them so that we can tell you if they are or not?

Fucking a. My 18 year old sister, her bf, my 17 year old brother, and a friend of his came into town last night to see a concert, so they asked if they could stay here. They didn't get in until 12:30, then made noise and had lights on for the next 4 hours, all of which I was awake and tossing and turning. I only have a 1 bedroom apartment so it's easy to be woken up by things like that. I went out twice to turn off a light and the tv. The first time nobody was even out there to yell at (my sister was asleep but the other three must have been outside), the second time only my brother was and I told him to go to sleep because they have kept me awake for 3 hours. So now I get to go to work on about 3 broken hours of sleep. I'm quite mad. So disrespectful, especially since I told my sister beforehand that I have to get up at 6:15 for work.

Stand 10 feet away from the car with the trunk open. Hearing distortion is helped immensely when your ears aren't overloaded.

If you want a fart box, tune above 38-40 hz. I like the way my 30 hz box sounds.

Three chest lifts, three tricep lifts, shoulder shrugs, ab work, worked in some leg press to get the legs worked a bit, and 3.5 miles on stationary bike.

I'll tell you the Wrangler MT/R is not good in the snow at all. It's a rock crawl/dirt road/mudding tire. Do they still make the old regular MT anymore? I haven't seen any in a long time. For that matter, most off road, block/knobby-tread style tires are not good in the snow. You really need continuous/closely spaced tread patterns to be good in snow.

I guessed. And it doesn't matter. The .03 cubic feet between my guesstimated .45 cubes and the actual .42 cubes won't make a difference. And yes you can do what you want.

It doesn't even matter. 12 gauge is fine. Do you have a different answer for if he says 3 ft. vs 6 ft?

You're not going to be able to do it accurately enough with that. Music is too dynamic and the response time of a dmm is too slow to get an accurate reading of just how high the voltage got. Just set the gain by ear.

It usually has to do with creating a specific modeling curve. Sometimes they want the frequency response curve to be flat, within 3 db across the whole thing. Others have a specified curve shape that they try to conform the model to. Others may have a specific -3db point it tries to hit. These suggestions work for some subs and not for others. Just use what the manufacturer recommends, not a box program. And no, none of them recommend port size. That's just not part of the program.

Yes those are outside dimensions, and it doesn't matter if you have one port or two. You said you wanted a double port so I designed it with them. That design has 6.8 cubes gross, minus 1.35 cubes for port displacement, and .45 cubes for sub displacement.

Well my gym is closed today so I just did my home workout, basically just like a small fitness test. It's based on the iron gym bar, which is not extensive at all. But at least it's something. So I did pullups, pushups, tricep dips, and added some ab stuff between the different exercises. Compared to last year at this time, I'm fairly happy with my progress. Following are my totals in three sets followed by my results last year in parenthesis. Pullups: 36 (24) Pushups: 64 (40) Tricep dips: 80 (72) I believe the rain has finally stopped for the night, so I'm going to go run 2 miles.

You want it spread evenly along the walls, or just loosely placed in there. You don't want to bunch it up. If you bunch it, you'll start actually reversing its effects and it will act like something taking up room in the box, effectively making it smaller.

Yes, each port would need to be 31.5" long. You can do 5 cubes @ 34 hz with a box that's 18"h x 40"w x 20"d with two 2"w x 16.5"h ports that are 26" deep each.

Since you're there, I gotta ask you about this. I heard it on the Jason Ellis show on XM radio the other day. An Iraqi veteran called in and said that the culture and military over there are way crazy. He said that in the Iraqi army they have divisions of 8 men, and the youngest of the men is basically the bitch of the group and has to receive gay sex from the other 7. He also said that in that culture, they view women as just to have babies, but young boys are for sex. However, they don't see all of this as being gay (which I guess is forbidden in Islam), because they differentiate sex and being gay. Jason Ellis was stunned at this and wasn't sure if this guy was telling the truth, so he asked other veterans to call in. I guess their phone lines lit up and the producer came into the booth to say that all of the people calling in said it was true.

That's about 2.17 cubes gross. If you're going sealed you could easily do even two 12s. One 12 ported may work too, likely with an aeroport.