KU40

Hopefully he was just joking?

also look for air leaks from the sub's gasket.

Every post I've read talking about port tuning has had that figure in it, so I guess that's probably the best dimension to minimize any type of port turbulence and noise. Look at some of the install pics of walled-off vehicles, you'll see boxes with like 15 cubes, the port is something like 10" wide by 20" deep and 30-40" long! Or Bigger! Unfortunately airspace is not the way to determine port area needed. It has more to do with how much airspace the sub(s) displace during excursion. A sub with 5 mm xmax needs less port area than one with 35 mm xmax, even if they're in the same size box.

ooooooook. why did you even ask then? Sorry for wasting your and my time.

Yep and unfortunately, that extra weights hurts every single kind of performance statistic Except for 60-0 survival rates :wacky: so bored today Then we should make them smaller and less safe. Weed out some of those bad drivers who get into stupid wrecks.

I don't see where you said 5 cubes after displacements. You said at least 5-5.5 depending on how much the port takes up. But that's my point. The port length depends on the box size after displacements. So it's kinda backwards to have a gross box volume and work out the port, then just find out what the net box size is arbitrarily at the end of it all. Not to mention that you won't know the tune of the port until you set it and get a net box volume. Then you may have to adjust the port again to get the right tune with the new net volume. Then you'll have to change the port to make the tuning frequency right again, which will then again affect net volume, etc. etc. etc.

if you measure the resistance of one of the coils and it comes up around 0.7, you have a D1 sub. If it's like 1.4, you have a D2. I hope you have a D2 so that you can wire it in parallel to the amp. I hope you thought about that back when you were buying things.

I use a program, winISD, alpha version. There is also a port calculator on this site.

I'm afraid you're going about this backwards. You need to figure out what airspace you want the subs to have, then work from there. Don't start with preset measurements for the whole box then work out what airspace the subs will see later. You'll need the airspace that the subs will have (after all displacements) to figure out the port length and tuning anyway.

That was a great game. I would have liked to see the Cardinals' D hold the steelers on that last drive, though. Fitzgerald sure came out in the second half. His last touchdown was awesome. He just turned on the afterburners and flew by those defenders. and yes, Harrison is a douche. As is Taylor. Seriously, you're going to say you're from the college of "Swagger" in the Super Bowl? wow.

That's what I was thinking. I've heard that too.

Are you going to buy and make your own speakers or buy prebuilt stuff? Or another good option for you would be to go to partsexpress.com and look at their kits. All of the speakers, crossovers, and wood for the box are included, you just have to put it together.

You're missing the point. Keyword: Before. After port and sub displacement is probably 2 cubes. Which, Mikel, why don't you tell us what that is? The before number is useless to us. and what amp are you going with?

gr8. Is this a license tag? QUOTE (RobClay @ Feb 1 2009, 02:42 AM) * My buddy has an Aq2200 running 2 fosgate t1 15's. I got to have a lil play time with the amp and i really liked it. Solid amp that puts out rated power.(/quote) Do you have some spl numbers with the 2200?

wtf, they are massaging that bull's ass and getting it drunk. And that's kobe beef that they charge $300 per steak for? Japanese are the weirdest people.....

They have been around for a long time. It's probably just statistical coincidence that there are a couple threads involving them right now.

Yeah it makes sense. It's the same principle as people with cars facing their boxes in the trunk towards the back instead of forward. It's louder facing back almost all of the time. You just have to make sure that you have enough room behind the seat for the port to "breathe." You don't want the port opening like 1" from the back wall of your truck, and you may not want to do that if the back of your back seat was flush against the back wall. You will probably want at least 3-4" from the port opening to the back sheetmetal on your truck. So plan that accordingly.

Well as long as you're responsible with the volume, the sub will be fine in any enclosure with 1000 watts on it. At that point it's more about the sound that you want to achieve out of the box. I think you'll be best served with something in the middle range of their recommendations.

Man, using the chainsaw for 3 hours then the axe/splitter for another 1 wore me out. But I still have to bring it all in from inside my Explorer. cripes........

Hope you work well in the wind!

larger boxes are more efficient than smaller ones. However, their mechanical power handling is also reduced because the increased airspace cannot control the cone as well. So, for instance, if you only have 600 watts, you may want to build the largest sealed box because that 600 watts will get the sub to full output in the large box. But if you have 1000 watts, you may want to build a smaller box because the extra power will make up for the lost efficiency of the smaller box. But in that case you'd also want the smaller box to help control the sub so that it doesn't blow mechanically as easily. Also, a sealed 15" Q will almost definitely not be as loud as a ported 15L7. But it will sound a lot better. The problem with most people not hitting the higher notes with the Q is when they put it into a ported box, i believe. I'm sure with a sealed box you'll be fine.

I would just do whatever is easiest and fits the best. Most likely, though, the best option would be to have two separate subs on either side of the tranny hump.

Well hopefully your business grows proportionally with it!

should only cause the speaker amp to go into protect. If they both are, it's from something they share (power, ground, head unit)

Just fit the largest wire you can. Most stock wire is 8 gauge, so anything better than that helps.