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Everything posted by KU40
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Depending on what vehicle he has, running coaxials on 1/5 the power in the rear won't do anything because you can't hear them unless you fade to the rear quite a bit, which blows the reasoning for putting such good speakers up front. It was easier in my car where the back speakers were on the rear deck, but in my Explorer with the back speakers facing the middle in the back door.....much harder to hear.
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Sorry about the job loss Aaron
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There are a few of us crazies who don't want concert sound in our cars. I enjoy feeling "enveloped" by the music and having it all around me, and I still want this feeling when I turn my head to look for other cars or whatnot.
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Only half day at work today! Home at noon.......
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Hope you know somebody in the hearing aid business
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who is it that you want to annoy from far distances?
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Bl isn't just magnetic strength, and weight of magnets has little to do with it. There are many more motor design factors that come into play. Motor topology, gap size, height of motor and top plate, where the coil rests in relation to motor parts......... Many subs can get away with much less magnet, but don't often because of the wow factor. Take a look at the new FI BTL, for instance.
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two per sub for everyday? They won't handle all of them for continuous playing. Nor will your charging system unless it's ungodly. For comps they will if you know what you're doing, but that's the same with any amp on any sub, whether it be same as the RMS of the sub or 8 times as much.
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mm....no, it wouldn't clip inherently. It will still provide the same amount of power (or more) than at 1 ohm without clipping. It would piss it off and make the amp blow sooner, yeah. Try wiring the sub to 2 ohms and see if the scratching noise is still there.
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I have to agree. I can't think of too many woofers that are going to fail if you play them the way they are designed. (Every once in a while there will be a lemon.) Well, except for the flat-cone ED A's of a while ago. But that's a different story.......
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This should be an easy day.
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Settings (Amp)
KU40 replied to charlescomer's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
take it to a shop and have them set it up for you. -
Somewhere in India a young lady and young man eloped and wed. I think it was the young girl's family who invited 8 of the young man's family over "to get to know them" or something. But instead they were killed and beheaded. This act was due to the young man being poor and his family having a bad history with the girl's family. Apparently this isn't that uncommon of an ordeal. The article also said that a while ago another family killed both wedders (including their own child) because they didn't approve of the marriage.
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I just read that too. Crazy. The article also says that there are thousands (can't remember how many now) of 4"+ pieces of floating debris in orbit. That space debris has become more of a risk for manned space shuttles than the takeoff and landing. That's not good. Somebody get a space vacuum sweeper up there!
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They look good, but did you ever think about maybe making a T-like shape with the handle? I just figure it might help you hold on better so that your hand doesn't slide down the handle and give blisters while you're scraping the wood.
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Head Unit/Amp Issue!
KU40 replied to Foxmoto's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I think that some Sonys have weird settings that turn on/off or mute the preouts in some way. Could that be it? Or did you find out they really are just messed up? -
How do you figure wiring it to .5 ohms made the sub have scratching sounds?
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You're an IPS.......wait, dammit I've used that one already. I need new material.
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I use scottrade. I like it. Trades are only $7, which is the lowest I've seen. But I only started 2 weeks ago.
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haha. shoot when I saw 12" and secret lovers I was expecting a porno.......
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Also check for air leaks. That tink tink tink sound can be indicitive of that (or clipping). Bottoming out would be a louder brap awful sound.
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I think most of the time if you send your amp back in to the manufacturer, they just give you a whole new board and send it back as refurbed. DB-r may take the time to check everything and only replace the parts needed, but I wouldn't hesitate about the quality. Besides, if anything would break after you get it back because it wasn't replaced during the refurb, I'm about 98% sure it would happen within the year warranty.
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I got some aeros from partsexpress and they came with instructions on how to figure them out. Also, what kind of port shouldn't matter in certain vehicles. At least I've never heard anybody say aeros work best in SUVs or anything like that. To me it seems like port is port (walls are likely a different story as it's hard to get 200 sq. inches or anything like that with aeros due to the size and shape of the flanges. It would just eat up too much room on the mounting baffle).
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it won't necessarily want more power. That depends on the box you give it. 1000 watts will be fine, just like the 1500 that the OP has will be. Still have to watch things because the sub can be blown in either case if you're not paying attention.
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ha you can see on the monitor that you're telling him that you have the snickers.