KU40

Digital Design's website says to use 16 sq. inches per cubic foot of box volume. But directly above that they go through a formula that involves the movement of the driver. It says: "A 4" diameter port has about 12 sqin of area. This is about an 8-1 ratio of cone area to port area. If the 12 inch cone moves 0.25", the port must move 2.0". It can handle this, but when the cone is moving 1.0", the port must move 8 inches! Now you've got a leaky sealed box." Which seems contradictory to me. Why would they base the port area on box size when they say themselves how xmax of the driver can affect port velocity?

why did you pick that value? I believe winISD Beta doesn't like you to have a port velocity above mach .14. But that's almost 50 m/s. Maybe I'm misremembering. Oh and I need to correct my units from before. I meant 20-25 meters per second, not feet. Big difference, whoops.

I read that a vegan was turned down for her proposed vanity plate: ILVTOFU Hmm, wonder why. slut!

I'd just get a 4 channel amp and use the front channels for your front speakers and bridge the rears for your sub. An LOC doesn't have any equalizer functions on it. It's simply a way to switch signal from high level to low level (speaker wires from the head unit into RCAs to go to the amp).

I think it's something like 20-25 f/s.

What box size, port, and sub do you have now?

You need as much port area as necessary to not stifle the sub or cause port noise. That's it. It may not be between 12 and 16 sq. inches per cubic foot. As for the port, only the square inches of the opening matter. It doesn't matter if the port is 4" x 5" or 10" x 2", it's 20 sq. inches either way. The length, then, depends on the net size of the box, the size of the port opening, and the desired tuning. Go to the port calculator on SSA's site or download winISD or some other box building program. Then you can see how these things interact.

Trimming wires is totally fine. Once you get to the amp the limiting factor in current carrying is the contact between the wire and the amplifier terminal. So filling the entire terminal with as much wire as you can cram in there is more beneficial than running smaller wire just so that it can easily fit into the terminal. You just have to be careful because having larger power and ground wires put the wires closer together at the amp, thus allowing easier shorting if the stripping and insertion of wire isn't clean.

I think that you should go to a local shop and listen to speakers before buying. Alpine is sold in nearly every store so you should be able to go and find some Type S's to listen to, along with pioneer, infinity, etc. You don't have to buy from them (online is nearly always cheaper), just listen to the kinds of speakers you like, tweeters especially. Second, you should ask yourself what you want to do with this setup down the road. If you just want something that sounds better than stock for cheap and don't really plan on anything down the road, a simple set of 2-way coaxials will work. If you'd like to put an amp on them down the road to get even better performance, go with components. As you said, no reason to buy junk now and throw the money away if you're going to want to upgrade in the future. At least get something now that's upgradeable (can handle additional power from an amplifer, for example). Third, if your doors don't have any type of deadener already on them, adding it will help a lot. For the most simple upgrade, all that you need to do is separate the rear wave from the front wave, and this is not hard at all. Honestly I've used cardboard and duct tape to cover holes in the inner door skin before and noticed results. You don't need largely expensive deadening products to get a little increase in midbass. Those help for more advanced installs and they can get crazy with different types. I'm not saying DON'T buy deadener, I just don't think that for this install you need top-of-the-line stuff.

My softball team won both games last night, but I really need to get into some batting cages or something. I always hit the ball when I wanted to, just not where, and hit I think 8/10 ground balls.

haha. Man I bet that girl was humiliated beyond belief.

Plus don't forget that at idle your high output alternator is likely to put out even less current than your stock one. You may be only getting 50 amps from it at that point. Most HO alts are meant to be ran at higher RPMs, whereas stock alternators are designed to have a more even power output across the RPM range.

Hello

x2. I guess you're smarter than everybodyalready, so why come on here and ask questions?

There has been a thread on this already

I mainly asked for the video for the sound. Some ailments have certain sounds. There isn't any air leaking from under the sub's mounting gasket or anything is there? If you put the old sub back in, does it still sound better?

I did, too. I don't know how Michigan St. got past Uconn.

A stereo integrity mag v.3, or maybe a sub from Mach5, SSA, or Incriminator.

You have an S7????!!!!! PICS NOW!!!!! That's my ultimate BONER! In the Liztick Red as pictured, albeit without the black wheels. They are just pure sex. Seriously, PICTURES NOW. Maybe a video of the exhaust too....mmmmm Notice he said one of those above the Saleen, meaning the girl. But hey, pics of the girl would be allowed, too.

I disagree. Dorms should be used in the first year, that's how you meet a lot of people. Agreed. Dorms were some of the best times in college. Plus it's a LOT easier to meet friends with whom you can then live with in an apartment/house for the next 3+ years, and you'd even have a heads up on how they live/treat roommates and the house. Not to mention the girls that are always there! Dumb easy way to meet chicks. In the first week I just walked around all the floors looking for open doors to talk to people. Met some great friends that way, and nobody thinks you're weird for doing it. Anyway, off topic. Although this is in the off-topic section. I'd suggest not getting a car unless you can pay for it right now in total. Car payments during school are no fun.

Perhaps an Adire Tumult or two if you can find them? What did you tune your previous box to? If more than 22 hz or so, that may have been a problem.

Ah, so that's what your name is from? I always thought it was a last name or something, but now I assume it's after the board maker? One of my friends bought a Burton board the last time we went in Colorado 3 years ago, and he hasn't been back since. Doh!

Maybe check out gifts.com for "regular" type things. Any big ticket items you'll have to think of yourself. How about a year's tuition at college?

NOBODY CAN TELL YOU. Not only that, but you didn't tell us what box, what vehicle, how it's positioned, etc. etc. etc, and that's 90% of the score. So just let this die.

One 2000d would be fine, and no, we don't have any estimates for you.