KU40

Yeah that could be true. I have a friend who says he wants to try getting info off of my hard drive because a lot of times stores like that will just hook the hard drive up to their computer but if it doesn't come up with that easy fix right away they just give up. But he said he'll try some other things, the one I can remember is putting a different/new motor in to see if that'll spin it since maybe mine is broken. at least the Geek Squad gave me a full refund. I paid about 110 up front and they were supposed to refund 70 if they couldn't get anything off, but when I went back they refunded the whole thing. So that's cool.

If he's talking about the bass setting on the head unit, it could either be boost or just the subwoofer output. If it's a boost (usually accompanied by a frequency, like 60 or 80 hz) then you don't want that all the way up. If it's the subwoofer output level, that can be all the way up and be fine. That's a setting for the whole signal.

I'd use 12-14.

x2. Can't go wrong with either.

Kinda curious as to why the 100.4 has a remote gain knob? Isn't that what the head unit volume knob is for?

I'd definitely take the crossovers out of the door, and they definitely need to be covered. Can you put a small mounting baffle in to adjust the size? Even a 1/4" piece of plywood should work if depth is a concern.

It'll be fine. I had a 15" sub on a front baffle that was only 15.25" tall or so. In fact, IMO, it is better to screw the sub through to the top and bottom sides of the box because that way the entire weight of the sub isn't pulling down at the front baffle.

I took it to Geek Squad on Friday and on Saturday they called saying that they couldn't get anything off of the hard drive, it had totally failed in a bad way. But my keyboard had come unplugged inside one time so I had to open it and make a good connection again. I hear that is somewhat common. But they remove the hard drive to try to retain information from it, so unfortunately that couldn't be it. I wish it was only an unplugged hard drive! Anyways, I bought a Dell Inspiron 530s. My choices were limited because I required a downgrade to XP (I like it, not a fan of Vista.....yet), and since they make you buy an OS anyways, may as well get both (they include the Vista installation CD for "When you're ready for the switch). I thought about a laptop but desktops just give you so much more performance for the price. I custom-built it, so it won't get here for about two weeks. I'm a bit excited because it has like 2.5x the processing power + double the cores, nearly 6 times the RAM, 20x the hard drive space, larger screen, better graphics card, etc. etc. etc. than my 7 year old laptop. The CPU was 850 after shipping and I chose not to get a monitor because I'm going to get one from best buy so that I can see them before I buy and because I get a discount there. So almost $1,000 total, but compare that to the almost $2,000 that my laptop was 7 years ago plus all of the additional performance. Wow. I can't wait! Now I just have to redo all of the stuff I lost Oh, and we found out that my gf's computer has at least one virus as the cause of her problem. Which we then transferred to her external hard drive when we backed up the photos onto it. Oops. Glad we didn't plug it into my computer to back up my stuff, though not that it mattered because it failed anyway.

Well with my computer being fried this may be my last post in the IHOP for quite some time. The only other computer I have access to is at work but I'm too nervous to enter the hop or off-topic sections in here for fear of something bad being in it that the all-seeing eyes pick up on. I've gone into the regular audio sections and probably will continue to do so, but only once per day during my lunch hour. So if you were sick of me before, here's your chance at a bit of a reprieve.

Well I'm pretty sure the hard drive is fried. When I go into the setup screen by hitting F2, there's a list of the hardware, except next to hard disk it says "none." well, I suppose I'm going to get a new desktop. Any suggestions on a good brand? I've always liked Dell.

Good thinking, I had forgotten about that.

One of my coworkers suggested doing a system recall, where it basically refers back to the last time your computer was updated or worked, and you'd lose everything between when that happened and now. Does that sound like a decent option? That seems like it would be a lot easier, although I really don't know when it would back up to.

Why do you want to take one out and port the other? Also, I assume you have dual 2 ohm coils? Were they just wired at 2 ohms at the amp and not giving all of the power the amp could provide?

yeah, wiring the two voice coils on each sub in parallel. + to + then to the + on the amp, same for negative. That will lower a dual 2 ohm voice coil sub to a 1 ohm net load at the amp.

I take it you're measuring DC resistance? And what sub do you have? If it's a 4 ohm voice coil it's not supposed to read 4 ohms on the meter. It should read like 3.2.

I suggested dual 1 with the premise that you were getting a single amplifier for both subs together and wanted a 1 ohm final load. You asked if BTLs came in dual 4, which led me to believe that you needed a single 2 ohm load for each sub. The dual 1 ohm coils wired in series will also give a 2 ohm load per sub. So if you kept your single amplifier, get dual 1. Each sub would then receive approximately 1300 watts. But if you're going to just add another hifonics 2600 watt, you should get dual 2 ohm coils so that you can wire each sub's coils in parallel for a 1 ohm load on each amp. 2,000 watts is plenty for a BTL. It may be able to handle 3,000, but it doesn't NEED that much. 1,300 watts will also move the sub decently.

I'd say the single 15.

BTLs come in dual 1. That's what you'd want. you can wire the voice coils on each sub in series then parallel the two subs, bringing the overall load to 1 ohm, just like dual 4's would in all parallel.

It can..... and it will if you feed the amp a dirty signal, clip the signal, or not enough power to it causing dirty power. OR pump bass through them. clipping and "dirty power" don't kill speakers. It's simply too much power.

It is illegal as far as I know. So you may get a ticket.

I can't think of any situation where that could happen.

Are you sure you're reading this right? The subsonic on that amp only goes from 10 to 50 hz. The lowpass crossover, on the other hand, goes from 20-200 hz. Are you sure you aren't getting the two mixed up? If so, that could be the cause of the problem. The subsonic needs to be at like 25 hz and the lowpass at 70-80 hz or so, and not the other way around. Otherwise you have problems.

I'm not really sure why he typed the first post in that thread like that. I checked his previous posts to see if it was a trend, but he seemed to type completely normal until that one, which was real stupid sounding.

They are just shoes, seriously. That attitude is unacceptable, immaturity at it's best. That's Chris Rock, yo. I'm talking about the people that actually do get in fights about that stuff. Oh I definitely agree, I just wasn't sure if you caught the quote.

It's a nice install, but every time I see these with the sub partitioned off facing the trunk I have to wonder how much output inside the cab they are losing because the bass gets trapped in the trunk. IMO, it would have been louder if you had faced it forward with the same setup, and maybe put some plexi on the back of the box to allow you to see the motor inside.