KU40

Man that thing's wild. Five valves per cylinder? Extra intake or exhaust?

What size is it? The only problem with low pro tires is that people are afraid of scratching the rims when they get mounted. If that guy was inexperienced or had inexperienced help he may be worrying that he'd have to pay for new rims if one got scratched. Or else he was just lazy and didn't want to go through the trouble since they require a few more seconds of extra care and patience.

That's a good way to describe it. I didn't know it was an M. Night Shyamalan movie until the ending credits, and then I was like ohhhhh makes sense.

My bad, I should have looked more closely. From the link it appears those are actually separate terminals for each component of the coaxial. One set of terminals for the tweeter, one set for the mid. The side with the capacitor is for the tweeter. You'll want to hook both positives to the positive on one channel of the amp, and both negatives to the negative on that channel of the amp. If you only hook up one you'll either only get mid or only get tweeter sound.

Is it possible to keep welcome threads simply as welcome threads and real questions in the proper other forums?

Peak ratings are worthless. With a subwoofer, you have no idea how long they made it last with that peak rating. Some sub companies may say if it lasts for 5 seconds, that's peak. Others maybe 1/2 second. And others simply double the RMS or even just make something up with absolutely no basis. I have no idea what JBL does, and I'd just run an 800 watt RMS amp on that sub. I'd say it's impossible to tell if that sub can handle 1500 watts RMS without actually getting one and testing it. Especially since RMS numbers can be made up themselves, or at least measured differently with different companies. Back in the day it was said that JL Audio set the RMS for their subs by playing the wattage for 24 hours continuously on the sub. If it survived, that was the RMS. Other companies set the power ratings strictly by coil size standards. I forget what they are, but it's like a 2" coil is rated for 500 watts, 3" coil 1000, etc. That is independent of any cooling mechanisms that the manufacturer built into the motor. Other manufacturers have their own tests. There are nearly as many ways to rate a subwoofer's power handling as their are companies that sell them.

Prefab ported boxes usually have little in the way of SQ. They get lucky once in a while with the correct airspace, but almost all that I've seen use a tuning that's way too high.

Just took a nap of a little over 2 hours I think. I only woke up when the roommate was using the loud ass vacuum we have. She's been cleaning for like 3 hours apparently. Those are the good roommates to have.

Hello

Ah ok, missed that part. Good job then.

Watched "Unbreakable" last night. It's a good enough movie. Pretty original idea, it was a refreshing twist and look at that kind of movie (won't give it away). It was really slow though, and pretty quiet. Kind of a slow, dark, underscored movie.

It's bottoming out because you are putting too much power to it. You need to turn the gain down or else don't turn the head unit volume up that high.

I thought I slept in today, then I put my glasses on and see it's 6:50. arg.

If the port is too large it behaves less as a port and more as a big hole in the box, basically making the sub think free air. The sub has to be able to excite the air in the port predictably.

Just bridge the channels. If you want to "save power," just turn the gain down.

Alan, 2 years old.

I think that would work all right.

Put things in the correct forum from now on. Seriously it's not that hard.

I've never seen any 5.5". Maybe some construction companies or something, but that's getting pretty obscure. I'm sure you'll be fine with two 6" aeros. But if you're worried about length of the ports, maybe try one 6" aero. That's about 28 sq. inches, that's pretty decent for a 12, and aeros help a lot. Might try winISD. That program makes it pretty easy to see port calculations.

Wow slow day in here. Helped the gf move today. Luckily it was only her bedroom stuff and only took 1.5 hours (I didn't have to unload it back at her parents' house, bonus). I loathe the day I have to move out of here. I have way too many big things.

I played a round last weekend. Hit a bad tee shot on the 4th hole, took a mulligan. Hit a decent tee shot on the 5th hole but landed under trees and there was no way to hit over them had to keep it low. Kept it low and ended up in the sand took three shots in the sand and gave up, so I started drinking more. I was having the hardest time with my balls just going like 20 degrees straight right of where I was aiming. I was very consistent with it, unfortunately. Not really much slice movement usually if at all, they just went right. I couldn't figure it out. Maybe I'm swinging a little inside out. I think I pulled like one ball all day, and it was when i was trying to overcorrect the right shot on purpose. They were all either completely straight or straight right a bit. About 5 times I said ok, I'll just aim 20 degrees left of where I should aim so that the ball will end up where I want. Of course EVERY time I did that it went straight. I was in the rough for 80% of my shots. That was frustrating.

ah you beat me to it. I had it opened in the Fi forum and was trying to change and it came up saying "error error, Adrian already moved it, slowpoke." Ok, I may have paraphrased that.

Yeah every graphic I've ever seen goes on the outside.

What? You have 2 speakers, correct? And 2 amplifier channels, correct? Wire one speaker straight to each channel.

Shoot, 43 sq. inches isn't at all too much for a 12. 12-16 sq. inches isn't even enough for some subs in some cases. I don't think you need to really worry until you get up near the sub's cone area in port size. For your 12, that means probably 80 sq. inches or so.