KU40

Appreaciate ya, So basically there is no ratio for power to ground wires. An example to make sure were both clear and on the same page; once i get my big three done i will have three power wires leaving my main battery( 4gauge to alternator, 2gauge to alternator and 2gauge to secondary battery) and having one-1/0 gauge ground wire leaving battery to frame of car. Correct????? Thanks KU40 Yeah that sounds good. Was the 4 gauge from the alternator to battery the stock wire and then you just added the 2 gauge wire alongside it?

I would, but then I always think Im missing part of the sound because the little thumb dials are never that accurate. So Id rather do it from the hu. But Ill try a few different ways. You know once I start fiddling with equalizers or crossover points, Ill be there all day.. hmm maybe this sounds better, no this... etc. And Ill end up going postal. lol. So less choices are better 4 me. Mike Well if you get a good amp they should be at least decently accurate. It also helps if the crossover on the amp has a small range, like 40-150 hz, instead of one with a range from 40-500 or something. But one thing that you could always do, regardless of quality of crossover markings, is just play test tones. Then you can tell which frequencies are getting cut at which setting, and that way you can dial in exactly what frequencies you want the sub to be playing. I just feel too restricted with only three settings like that. Plus I have mine at about 70 hz to make it sound best with my front stage and all, so those settings would make me unhappy. I was much happier after I lowered it from 80.

Yay Magic. They better win Thursday as well.

I never actually paid a deposit on this place. I moved in after my roommates were already here. I was just hoping to be sneaky Heck they've forgotten how much we paid in rent before.

Can you describe them better or give pictures

Well you should predrill all of your holes anyway. And the screws really only need to hold for the first few hours, because after that the dried glue is what holds the box together.

Me too. The roommate just told me earlier today that he's moving into a place with his girlfriend in August. So I guess I'll more than likely be living alone for the first time in my life. I checked online and went scouting around the area of town I'd like to live in, but it seems that my best bet is just to get a single bedroom place here in the same complex we're in now. About the cheapest for a decent square footage not in the student ghetto part of town, and it was just redone inside last year. Plus maybe since I've lived in the complex for 3 years they won't make me put down a deposit and may even drop the rent a couple bones. I'm kinda cheap when it comes to housing (within reason, don't want a dump in a dumpy part of town), because I'm just saving for that house in a couple years. I'd rather sacrifice 2 years of living in a mediocre place so that I could buy a house then, than live in a better apartment now but have to wait 10 years to buy a house because I couldn't save as much. When we drove around today I was amazed at how many apartment complexes there are. Holy cow. Parts of town that I've never studied closely but I thought had more houses in them were actually full of rental apartments, townhouses, and duplexes. It appears that home ownership is a bit more exclusive club than I thought.

I didn't know there was a waiting period? Crazy. But I haven't nor do I know anybody that has had it removed, so I'm not a person that would know.

Why don't you use the crossover on the amplifier so that you have more than three choices?

Honestly you should begin by building a basic box. Building a wall well takes experience. Plus with only a single 15, I don't see the point. If you have some cardboard laying around, create a mock-up box and see if it fits in the trunk. That way you will know if the box you're planning will fit.

I think you should for sure find out the output of your alternator first. If it is indeed 140 amps, that's plenty for the amplifier you have. Even the 110 should be. You wouldn't need to spend money on a new alternator that way. Also, most stock alternators actually put out more current at idle than a higher amperage HO alt. HO alts are usually designed to give their full power at higher RPMs. So that's something to consider as well, if you're really worried about idle current capacity.

Yeah, I was going to say it may function well as a noise absorber so you may want to put it back on. As for your sound deadener, along with flat panels that may resonate I think you also want to cover any holes in the door panel with it (just not the ones on the bottom of the door that allow water to drain out. That way the speaker can use the whole inside of the door as a sort of enclosure, IB style. It usually helps the midbass quite a bit.

:fing34: :fing34: It is also a bass boost, so just wouldn't want to use that part much. The subsonic actually has a switch between fixed at 25 hz or variable at 1/3 octave below where you set the bass boost center frequency at. Interesting feature/idea, but I'm not sure how practical it is. I guess you could just set the bass boost frequency wherever you need it to be so that the 1/3 octave below is the subsonic crossover frequency you want, then just don't increase the boost.

Don't forget to take the volume of the wood out of your dimensions to get internal airspace. So the 25 x 35 x 15 box is actually only 6.15 cubes before sub and port displacement. External ports are the same as internal ports to tune, you just don't have to take out port displacement. But with the box you last mentioned, you can do an internal port and be fine. It's large enough. If you want the 18", the first box you mentioned would be ok. The internal airspace on that after wood displacement is about 10.25 cubes. The port will probably subtract another 3 cubes, so you'd be down in the range of recommended boxes for that size.

OK i see. One ground wire is fine, as long as it's the same or larger size than either of the power wires. I understand what you're thinking about the two power wires (or why you would think that), but it's not correct. While there are two large wire leads on the positive terminal, one is an input and one is an output. So really the two power wires aren't doing the same thing, they're basically just two wires completing the same circuit loop. So you can kinda think about it like only one power wire, or at least one power wire just split at the battery terminal. You can kinda think of the battery as an amplifier, it has one power input (from the alternator) and one ground. The power wire that goes from the battery to the amp has its own ground, in the one from the amp to ground.

Dimensions of the subs can be found here: https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/...view.shopscript

Your air conditioner may be on its last legs. Sometimes they pull a bunch of current in their last days. Hopefully one of those things is the culprit!

Why wouldn't it? You put a 3000 watt amplifier on a sub rated for 2000 (maybe 2500 since it was fully loaded). If you clipped the amp heavily you could get 4, 5, even 6000 watts from it. That's surely enough to blow even a BTL. Does the sub make any noise? I mean bad noises like scratchy, not just bass noise. I won't comment on the warranty/recone issues, I'll let a representative of the company do that.

Why would you need two ground wires from the same terminal to the same spot on the frame? I guess I don't follow your question.

Shoot I clicked that hoping for babes, not babies.

What are you learning about in history?

It's not bad, just kinda overpriced. Obviously I'd suggest going over to the Secondskin forum and website since they are a part of this forum, and I've had good luck with Raammat in the past.

Oh, and I forgot the second question. Yes, you can still port inverted SSDs.

What do you want it for?

No difference except the one you mentioned.