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Everything posted by KU40
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you should be used to working with a nanotube zing! haha!
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make sure you drink 15 to replace it. Yeah, I know I didn't drink enough. I never do. I'm just always work work work and taking care of myself is a 4th or 5th thought. I didn't pee from 10am until about 10pm. That's not too good.
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Same here. I do too because I love thunder and the spectacle of lightning. Just not when I'm trying to sleep. I can sleep through anything if I want. I usedtocould (stole that from Jeff Foxworthy) back when I was a teenager and in my mom's basement. I could have slept through a tornado. But now I'm on the second story of a thin-walled townhouse, and plus I haven't been sleeping as well lately.
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Wow and they were really 800 watts RMS? That would have been a huge sub back in that day! One of the first big boys. But it's strange that they scaled down the next versions so much? Is that 5 cubes for a pair of 12s?
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I don't think you realize the difference in decibels. You're thinking of it like oh, I whisper 50 db so going from 140 db to 190 db should just be like going from not saying anything to a whisper. Only it's not like that. The decibel scale is logarithmic. So while going from 120 to 130 db is 10 times more intense, going from 120 to 140 db is 100 times more intense. 120 to 150 is 1,000 times more intense. etc. There is also a limit to how loud things get naturally. The atmosphere doesn't allow for over I think 194 db? from things like this.
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Amp problems! Help please
KU40 replied to lilblacky's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
What impedance are the subs and how are they wired? -
A dude a few years ago, I want to say Nate Munson, but not sure if that's right at all, was hitting 170+ with a single 10". I think it was on an AC mic because it was before termlab days, but whatever. As has been said a thousand times, the install is everything. Equipment is almost nothing.
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do these subs have a name? Anyways, if you wire the coils in each sub in series then parallel the two subs, that's 12 ohms. If you wire all coils in parallel on each sub then series the subs, that's 5.3 ohms. All in parallel = 1.3 ohms.
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His in-car speakers? Really? Not even close. They're probably at like 115-120 db. Some of those mics don't even measure anything above bass frequencies.
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Have to work outside all day today, and found out it's going to be 101* where I'm going. Wonderful. So excited to sweat 14 gallons today.
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Same here. I do too because I love thunder and the spectacle of lightning. Just not when I'm trying to sleep.
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Since you don't know your peak frequency, I'd just play a tone sweep that goes from like 80-30 hz or something. They have them on a lot of bass cds. As for windows up or down and backseats up or down, that depends on the rules of the organization that's throwing the competition. You'll have to check when you get there. Most of the time your system will be louder with a window down or door open a little, normally the driver's side is better since the mic is on the passenger side. It will also be louder with the seat down.
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Nothing. 30 sq. inches of port should also be just fine for that sub.
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Not necessarily. Fuses have to have constant draw exceeding the rating for several seconds, not instantaneously. And since music is dynamic, it could draw 150 amp for 1/2 second, then 20 amps the next. So it's not over the rating long enough. I had an 80 amp fuse on a 1000 watt sub amp and two interior speaker amps with a ombined 400 watt rating and it never blew in the years I had it on there.
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wiring question
KU40 replied to Estsound's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
To be accurate, the impedance will be 2 ohms. The resistance will be a little lower. But that doesn't matter, the combination is correct for your amplifier. And you can basically think of a dual voice coil sub as two subs. They interact the same in wiring anyways. -
What home audio subs have you been looking at that the price is so high? You'll want a ported box.
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Port area : do I have enough for my Icon 15?
KU40 replied to Notorious97200's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Yep, unfortunately larger port area means the port has to be longer for the same tune. -
My Current System. Credits to this site, Ca.com, and Roe
KU40 replied to Dutchie.'s topic in General Audio
What are the specs on the box? -
Working on it, 70+ winds here... The worst just rolled through. Looks like it'll hit you harder though, don't wash away. I don't know if we got the wind, but we sure got lightning. Holy crap. 3-4 strikes per SECOND for hours. Biggest electrical storm I've ever seen. I got such a crappy night's sleep. I probably only slept half of the night.
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Setting Crossover points on an HU.
KU40 replied to T0mmysee's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
maybe with cheap 3" speakers, but not 6.5s. They should be able to play down to at least 80 hz if they're decent at all. -
Hmm weird, but ok. You may want to email Orion to get their suggestions. If one would be ok is up to you. I don't know if it's enough for what you are looking for or not.
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Hmm, are you sure those are 800 watts rms? The last ones I remember were rated 250 RMS I think (But those were like the v.2 and v.3, which were made back in '99 or something). However, depending on the version you got, you may be out of luck. Those XTRs were notorious for liking big boxes IIRC. Very efficient subs, but they gave up box size to get it. I'd basically go as big as you think you can afford. Luckily they don't need a ton of port area because they didn't have a lot of xmax. You could easily get by with two 4" aeroports, and with a big box they shouldn't be terribly long. For example, a 5 cube box tuned to 32 hz with two 4" ports, each port only needs to be 10.25" long.
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Approximate weight for HDC3 and Fi BL
KU40 replied to Mynameismcgyver's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Are you planning on using 3/8" wood or something?