KU40

get a life the nightshades are the same weather its a 12 or an 18 only diffrence is the cone size motor, coil, and spiders are all the same Do not bash on other members in this fashion. Instead, follow Memphismzd's way of refuting the statement.

Since you love creating these threads so much, why don't you go ahead right now and create another thread about the Incriminator Audio Death Penalty, another about the RE Audio XXX, another about the Audioque HDC3, another about the Mach5 SPL, another about the DC Sounds lvl4, another about the MTX Jackhammer.......... You've already crossed the Xcon, BTL, and Nightshade off the list, as well as basically every mono amp that Sundown makes or is in the process of making.

This is going to be a boring week at the office (and next week for that matter). Don't get to go into the field until at least the first week of July.

Can't get much better than this: http://www.carsound.com/review_archive/amps/s835.html So it's a bit overrated and is actually about a 40 watt x 4 amp. I wouldn't say it's top of the line.

You've just reached the mechanical power handling of the mid, plain and simple. There is nothing you can do to any settings if you don't want to raise the crossover. Unless you have an EQ and can cut around 100 hz, that would maybe give you a little extra midrange and treble without the midbass stopping you. But then the midbass wouldn't be as loud relatively, so it may mess up the balance of the system. Other than that, if you just have the mids free air or IB in the doors, you could build sealed enclosures for them. That'll raise the mechanical handling a little. Or else just control the volume knob finger and be satisifed with what they can give you.

Max numbers mean squat. Just go by RMS, which is 2500. They probably don't use max like other manufacturers, to them max may be maximum RMS.

So then how does a subwoofer move in after the "DC" moves it out? Having 0 DC current would move it back to rest, but then how does it get the sub to move backwards physically, more into the motor (like when the coil hits the back plate during overexcursion)?

you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus Only problem here is music is alternating current. If you have DC going to a driver, you have a cone stuck in one direction which = zero sound being produced. one problem there your kinda wrong it's switched dc not ac man big difference. it's switched buy a triggering voltage on the amplifier chip it self. you are right if you got a full blast of dc threw the chip your speaker will do just what you said = zero hertz. Which is AC. It is alternating, just in many cycles instead of at one cycle. wrong again alternating current power etc.. flow's in two direction's in a conductor there is the positive cycle and the negative cycle if the power never drops below plus or minus 0 volts it's d.c. if it goes negative then positive then it's ac. so what fine school did you get this load of crap from any ways. So what you're saying is that an amplifier puts DC out the positive lead to the sub, then switches and puts DC current out the negative lead to the sub to get the sub to move back in? Have you ever put an Oscope to an amplifier's output terminals and played a sine wave? The wave does go both above and below the 0 reference line.

are you looking for more outdoors or closer to the city? I don't know that we have a preference. Really driving time is the only thing, just don't want it to be too far since we already have an 8 hour drive up there. Edit: My brother said the place he found is St. Croix state park. Will that do well enough?

It's just because of heat. Cool electronics work better/more efficiently, but as your car warms up, the alternator does as well and thus becomes less efficient at producing power. Every car does this. This is also why in the winter it likely starts a little higher still.

Read the owner's manual.

You could probably reach full mechanical capability with 1200 watts or less.

Indeed. He is angry.

What box are you going to put it in?

Just buy as big of an amp as you want then. It'll handle what it'll handle. Are you going to measure the amplifier output? And besides, power handling is box dependent.

Before you buy any new subs, build a correct box for the ones you have. You may be surprised at how well they sound in the right box and not need to spend the money on new subs.

Wow, rain is covering the entire state. OK, well maybe I'll be doing this tomorrow. Although rain has a funny way of dissipating just southwest of Lawrence very often, which the radar actually shows it's doing right now. So I may have more time than I think. But how nearly worthless would it be to wash and wax immediately before it rains.

Oh no, I haven't washed and waxed yet! Haha, that seems ok to me! It's Nick.

Do you have room for an 8-10 cubic foot box in your trunk? 15s won't play any better than 12s if they are also starved for room.

Yeah I know. Well I was having problems with it not shifting from 2nd gear. I figured it was either try that or have the transmission looked at thoroughly and possibly rebuilt. I took the cheaper route. Although in the end it turns out that it wasn't the tranny at all, some nitwit must have drained and then didn't put oil back in the rearend. It was basically dry. This was immediately after I bought it. I drove it for like 400 miles during this time including a straight 220 mile highway trip to my dad's shop, so I don't know how I didn't burn up the differential. I thought maybe it was a leak so I checked it about every week for the next year after we filled it, but it was never low again. Weird.

Actually I had to get a new radiator last year, so coolant should be good since it all drained out before I realized the radiator was cracked, so it should be relatively new and good. Also did a tranny flush last year as well. It has new tires, great life left on brakes, new air filter, new shocks, new muffler, new upper control arms & ball joints, etc. She's in pretty tip top shape. I hate when my things get in disrepair, especially vehicles. I'm always looking for something to be wrong. But I just haven't touched the engine yet. It could probably use a new exhaust gasket and manifold because it sounds like there's a tiny bit of air escaping, but it's not loud (just a light puff sound) and doesn't bother me much. But maybe I will give her a tune up, just for the hell of it. Would it be worth it to replace the distributor and coils at the same time, or are those things just fix when they go bad?

Man I wonder how those women feel. Their face is next to those words and in that context. Either they have really high self esteem and can slough it off as income, or they are going to need therapy.

For you guys in Minnesota, any suggestions on places to camp over July 4th weekend relatively near Minneapolis? Me and maybe a couple of my friends are going up to visit and camp with my brother and his wife and friends. We've thought about doing some canoeing, maybe some fishing, and who knows what else. My brother thinks he found a place about 1.25 hours from Minneapolis because everything closer is booked full already, but he didn't tell me what it was. He said ideally it may be awesome to go to the north shore of Superior, but that's like 4 hours away so kinda far.

I bet you do. I drive like a grandma to try and get good mileage, and my road to work is 55 mph. Pretty easy on the engine.

Fixed Haha oh ok. Well then maybe I'll do it anyways.