KU40

Hmm seems something is robbing you of voltage between the battery and amp. Test on either side of the fuse on that wire, sometimes fuse boxes go bad.

wrong there is a difference each turn in the port causes turbulence slot(square ports that use one side of the box as a port wall) usually are very good with noise because of the opening of the port being easy to load and not have air being blown across the opening square ports that don't bend have less turbulence but may have more pressure blow by round ports are the worse until they are flared thats why they are the noisiest now if you use any of these and flare them it helps alot by creating a void and helps pull the air out of the enclosure more air movement = more db's (most of the time ) now are any of these differences enough to hear by ear? most of the time no but on the meter there is a difference I just thought you should know this in case you want to compete and don't use re's calculator it is often way off That's all fine and dandy, but that's not the issue. If you have a 12" deep box but need an 18" deep port, what are you going to do?

If you just want a meter just to mess around with on your system, it doesn't matter how accurate it is, it just has to be precise. It can measure 15 db lower or higher than the termlab and that won't matter. All you need is a meter that will show you how the changes you perform affect the score. So it doesn't have to be expensive at all, just able to reach the decibels you can reach (like some radio shack meters only go up to 130 or something). But alas, I don't know all of the different meters or where to get them.

You will never hear a difference.

Yes having 5 external and 12 internal is fine. Just have to remember to account for the displacement of the port that's inside of the enclosure. the RE calculator tells you how long to make each piece of the port. The long piece, towards the back, would be 12" long. The part that comes off and creates the L, parallel to the back wall, is 3". But since you measure down the center of the port and into the center of the corner, the total length becomes 19". I assume your port is 4" wide?

What do you think is happening when you have your head unit at volume 5 even with a 1000 watt amp? Just wire the coils in series. Who cares if it's only 150 watts at 4 ohms.

Pick out your amplifier first. That will determine the voice coils to get. That's it. If you have two subs and want a 4 or 1 ohm net load at the amp, get dual 1 ohm coils. If you want a 2 ohm load at the amp, get dual 2 ohm coils.

The crossover will be worked out with you ears as to what sounds best. For the sub amp, usually 70-80 hz low pass works fairly well. For the infinity perfects, which I assume have passive crossovers with them, you can just set the highpass around 70-80 as well, but again your ears will dictate. Plus you may have to raise it up if the mids can't play that low very well, or you can lower it (and lower the sub crossover along with it) if they can handle going lower without bottoming out. Same with the rear channels to the coaxials. Don't need to use the subsonic on the 4 channel. Oh, and the range would be x1. if you put it x10, the crossover would become 1,000 hz if you had it set at 100. It just multiplies whatever you set the crossover at.

Unfortunately so. You say it gradually gets worse as you keep playing? Is it only at full tilt or even when turned down?

Box specs?

Hola

This is why I don't mess with Kenwood's lower line. Excelon or nothing. I had a lower-end Kenwood head unit from like 2004, and noticed an SQ improvement upon the direct swap with my Alpine. Head units shouldn't color sound like that. Plus it skipped quite easily.

Not dogging on you or anybody, but just as a general statement- If we could all learn to control the volume knobs so that we didn't break equipment, we wouldn't have to deal with customer service at places.

yeah is there anyway i can get around this e.g buying a external crossover ??? You can turn it off and then buy an external subsonic filter to get the crossover point where you want it.

They're crap, like 50 watt subs. If you google them I'm sure you can find something. They're just funny because they're pink and I think orange, and have a picture of a dog on them. As for the hott setup subs, they were Orion's lower line. I think maybe 150 watts RMS, single 4 ohm voice coil.

There is no difference between square, round, and L-shaped. L-shaped just refers to if the port is too long to fit the depth of the box and you have to angle the port another direction to get the required length for the tuning you need. If you have a 12" deep box and need a 15" port, you make it L-shaped. If you only need an 8" deep port, you don't. Simple as that. As for internal vs. external, yes they are the same length because the volume of the box for the subs doesn't change. You just may be able to make the box 4 cubic feet gross instead of 5 cubic feet if you make the ports external because you wouldn't have port displacement.

Oh yeah, why didn't I think of phase. Try reversing the + and - on one mid and see if you get better response.

That's why I only go to the ER/doctor as a last resort with things like that. Unless it bleeds for more than a few minutes or the gash looks like a canyon that I can stick half my finger in, I don't go.

I love it man its an awsome sub and can def take abuse the magnet on it it huge. and thanks for that idea If you love the sub you have, why spend the money to change?

No, sub stage doesn't count. When we say 2-way, 3-way, what have you, we are only talking about the front stage. The sub is obvious so it isn't counted. As for the head unit problem, you'd just run one set of preouts to handle two sizes of the speakers, one set to handle the other in the front stage, and the third is for the sub (since it's just a sub preout, correct?) For instance, you could run the front preouts to a 4 channel with a y-splitter to get the signal to all channels. Set the head unit crossover where you want the midrange highpassed at, like 400 hz or whatever. Then on the amplifier, use the highpass on the front outputs to go to the tweeters, then the lowpass on the other two channels going to the midrange. Then you'd have the rear preouts from the head unit going to a 2 channel amp to power the midbass speakers up front. You could set the highpass on the head unit to 70 hz or wherever, then use the lowpass on the amp at 400 hz to bandpass the midbass.

Yeah it's blazin' out there.

Is there any fishing to be had in the rivers around the St. Croix park I'll be going to?

Smoke irritates my eyes. I'm sure those smokers you work with have a lot of problems. Normally trying to bully people into just letting them smoke there is just the tip of the iceberg. If they were considerate people they'd understand and move it outside.

Looks like you did a pretty good job on those doors. You've just run out of speaker capability. Maybe you need to step up to a 3-way active with a dedicated 8" midbass?

In case you want a second opinion, I second rushrun's opinion.