KU40

Well at the tuning frequency is when the most sound is coming out of the port instead of the front of the sub. The sub is moving the least at that point, but the air from the port is moving the most (relative to the rest of the frequency spectrum that the sub will be playing). So the air inside the box is doing more work at that point, and perhaps that means more pressure inside. With this laid out I wonder if smaller boxes would be better for port wars. Less volume to pressurize inside the box. I'd think there would also be an ideal port size. Too large of a port would allow the box to depressurize too easily, but too small of a port may not let all of the pressure out at the same time due to the airflow restriction.

The real moving begins tomorrow. I hate moving. But a bit excited for the new beginning.

Does your car have factory premium sound?

It depends on the tuning frequency of the box, there is no set value. Reason being that the frequency that the subsonic is at is the -3db point, not the point at which the rolloff begins. So, since an octave is a doubling or halving of frequency and as you increase frequency octaves grow in size, you can't use a specific number. It has to be relative to the tuning frequency. But for most boxes, since they're mostly tuned in the 30-35 range, 5 hz below tuning frequency is fine.

If you go higher with the subsonic you'll start to lose music above the box's tune. I wouldn't go any higher than 28. Maybe even 25. As for phase, that depends entirely on how the sub interacts with your front stage. You set the phase so that the sub is in phase with the interior speakers. This just takes messing with it. It's not a bass boost, gain, or anything. No setting that you put it on will hurt the sub. So just mess with it until it blends the best with the midbass from your other speakers.

I don't think Sadistic Customs knows what he's talking about, let alone being able to put it into logical sentences and paragraphs. I don't know much about port wars however. But I wouldn't think that the vehicle acoustics have anything to do with sticking the mic inside the port, because the wave in the port has not had any interaction with the surrounding environment. You just want the highest pressure possible inside the box. I think you'll just have to do a lot of testing and tweaking the box, just like legal SPL comps.

Aaron, how do I get in touch with the SSA model girl?

Thank goodness it's Friday. Too bad I'll be so busy with moving and furniture shopping this weekend that I won't have time to think and it'll be Monday before I know it.

Are you going to haul around a mini horse in the back of your van?

No. BTL is 2000 watts RMS. Fi doesn't list max ratings crap. It may be able to take 4000 RMS for a short time, but that's just it. A SHORT time (as in an SPL burp). There's absolutely no reason to put 4000 RMS on it for everyday listening. It's just a waste of money anyways. It's not going to get noticeably louder from just getting a sundown 2000D.

Actually factory grounds aren't always that good. You didn't sand the paint under your amplifier's ground? Do that!

How long does it say that kayak trip should take? Haha

The subsonic is just a highpass filter. Just guess at the location. It doesn't have to be exact. Just somewhere probably 25 hz is what I'd do.

I realize this thread is 3 weeks old, but um......max ratings mean nothing. Think about it. The sub's RMS is 2000. Shouldn't you match the RMS of the sub with the RMS of the amplifier? Or if you like to look at max ratings, the max rating on that 3500D is probably 7000 watts. How does that compare to the subs' max ratings? Hmm..............

You're going to forget that sometime and leave it on, thus draining your battery overnight. The best solution is to solve the problem. Sometimes this pop can be fixed by regrounding the head unit and/or amplifier. What head unit do you have? If it's a Pioneer, you probably blew the fuse inside of it, which leads to this problem. There are fixes to that.

I love inverted dust caps.

No it doesn't have to be the same brand. And I would not get an amp even close to 600 watts RMS for that sub, as that 600 watt rating on the sub is the MAX rating. It's actually only 120 watts RMS. So it really only needs a 100-150 watt RMS amp. What is your budget for the amp?

Probably shouldn't have bought that 3x short S&P500 ETF last night. whoops.

Well we know they wont' be selling any more cars then.

I might know a guy who can build a custom entertainment center for a good price for a fellow SSA member... Hmm, I forgot about that. Enticing. I'm still clueless about what I would want, however. Not sure if I want wood or metal/glass.

I wonder the same thing. "Hey if I send my BTL 4000 watts will it handle it?" It's not helped by people who say that they put a larger amp on that same sub and it handles it fine, but then don't qualify that statement by saying that they haven't clamped the amplifier so they have no idea how much power is actually going to the sub.

You have to just kinda guess at the crossover settings since they're only labeled on each end. Also, the crossover's aren't a brick wall. They're just attenuating slopes. So if you have a 12 db/octave crossover and set it at 80 hz, 160 hz will be 12 db quieter than 80 hz. But you'll still hear it.

How is the SX not cutting it? Is it just not loud enough? What amp do you have on it?

Braves are on a roll. Whoo!

Going garage sale-ing this Friday and Saturday. Since I basically want/need everything for my new place. New couch, big screen, entertainment center, dining room table and chairs, bar stools for my little counter space, and maybe computer desk and chest of drawers. Right now I feel too cheap to buy it all new, so I'm going to see what's out there. Especially bar stools, I think those need to have a little character built in upon purchase. But I'll see what else I can find at a discount. Otherwise I'd feel like I'm perking up the economy by myself.