ABXX49

Good things are worth waiting for. =]

If you download winISD and get familiar with it, you'll find that there is a port velocity section. This will allow you to see if you're going to have port noise with your desired port.

Is that just to see how much room I have, or rather the axis I'm able to achieve? Or both!

Hello HAWP!

Okay, I just re-read it, and I think it's making more sense.

Okay, I'm almost following that. Why wouldn't I want to use my 880 to just LP my midbass, BP my midrange, and HP my tweeter? Does the way you said make it easier to time align? And what is PLD?

Seriously guys, we're here for burton907. Let's let him direct all the talk. I can believe all of you....not thinking about him first....Jerks..

Nice job, Nick.

Oh, and turn your bass boost completely off. That will ruin your shit.

Hifonics amps aren't known for clipping, 'tards are known for clipping. Read this to learn how to set your gain with a Digital Multimeter. If you don't own one, I highly suggest you pick one up. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704

Come on! Stop wasting time, get those vids here!

Have you checked out JL's website?

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704 Not the perfect way, but it does work.

Just sold my 10" D2 a couple of days ago to my buddy. Didn't want to, but I needed the money. EDIT: Just means I'll be able to goto an Xcon now.

How would you suggest I use my processing I have to best fit what I'm working with?

That's definitely doable then. I'll just cut a hole in the back of the FG enclosure and vent in to my doors. I will be sealing up my doors with deadener. Do you have any other suggestions for the time being? If not, it's settled!

Okay! I think I'll go that route then. Seal up the midbass and vent the mid and the tweeter. Will having them on the same baffle in the same chamber have any effect? Should I try and seal the tweeter off? What do you think of this combination: Peerless SLS 8" Peerless 3" full range for the mid Morel MDT29 tweeter

Might it be best to drill a hole in the back side of the kick afterwards? That would allow me to run my wires too. I'm really new to IB also, but can you have an IB be too big? Would it eventually become just free air, or is that pretty much what IB is for?

I found my problem last summer. I am right handed and I would always hit to right field, I couldn't figure it out. Sometimes it worked to my advantage because they always put the girls in right field, haha. But I just found out that I was swinging a TOUCH too early. Fixed that and was beamin' home runs by the end of the year! Swinging early would generally mean your were pulling the ball down the left field line, but it could be possibly that you were swinging early and in an attempt to not be ahead you were dragging your hands through and not snapping through the ball, causing your bat to be aimed at right field. Swinging later would cause you to feel the need to "catch up" to the ball so you would snap your wrist which would effectively give you much more power and put you in the power zone of your swing. I was swinging early, and in doing so I don't think I was following through on my swing. I hit early with my bat extended further than it needed, and it just was angled poorly in the right field direction. I started waiting for the ball a bit more and working on my follow through which helped me astronomically.

I'm waiting to read on the internet, "Local Kansas student arrested for suspected murder of roommates."

I'm leaning towards the Peerless midbass. I know I can fit an 8" in the door. If for some reason I find out I can't do it, maybe I shouldn't be allowed to install anymore..haha. The 10lb. CSS is the reason I don't want that driver. Thunderbird are NOTORIOUS for developing sag in the hinge, so I'd like to limit the weight if possible. (I understand I will be adding weight regardless, but the least amount of weight is what I'm shooting for.) I kinda liked the Peerless midrange, also. A lot of it was because of the size. Getting a large mid and a large tweeter to be on axis is going to be tough. Doable, but tough. Adrian, I can cut the kicks. I have no problem with that. Are you suggestion that I cut the kicks and lay a layer of resin and FG to lower the eventual protruding point of the kick? I know every car is different, and the best solution would be testing the drivers in different positions. I have a few problems with that though. I really want an 8" in the door, so it really limits the possibilities of incorporating other speakers there. My A-pillars are a no-go as well. I have some really nasty blind spots in the 'Bird as it is, and don't want to create anymore. Either of you: would you suggest running these things sealed or IB? I really don't want to cut any sheet metal by my kicks to make the midrange IB, so I'd prefer to keep that sealed. Do those benefit from polyfill? Should I make separate chambers for the tweeter and the mid in the kicks? I had plans on running my door's sealed by making door pods. Would I be better off doing IB for those as well? EDIT: Reworded a few things for clarity.

I found my problem last summer. I am right handed and I would always hit to right field, I couldn't figure it out. Sometimes it worked to my advantage because they always put the girls in right field, haha. But I just found out that I was swinging a TOUCH too early. Fixed that and was beamin' home runs by the end of the year!

I would invest in a 0/1 -> 4 gauge distribution block. It is the cleanest way to do it, and it will allow you to add additional amplifiers if you see it fit down the line.

A couple of years ago I would have said Infinity made the best speakers ever. After hearing a TON of different speakers I know feel really guilty for recommending them back then. I've been a member here for about a year and a half, and have really only been giving advice for the past half of a year. I figured I was better off learning, which I was, before giving my underdeveloped opinion. Save yourself the embarrassment for a while, and really learn your shit.