brokeitagain

I have got two '08 L7 12'' coming in tomorrow. I have i built an enclosure that is 4.6 cubes after sub and port displacement, the port is 14.5''H, 4.5''W, and 17 inches deep. i figured the tuning to be about 37-39 Hz is this correct? Did i build a proper sub enclosure for these two? I am pretty sure that i am above the minimum airspace requirement for two of these drivers. i want it to get pretty damn loud but still be musical, i plan on using this for daily as well as a few of the local shows around here this year I dont want to roll up to these shows looking like i havent got a clue(because i dont). At first im gonna be running the pair on 1000 watts RMS, but when i get my taxes back i am buying a Kicker 2500.1, or two 1500.1's. I think that the second amp option is going to be the best way as i have dual 4 ohm subs.

But thats not what i am after, i need more of a middle ground. i have read the manual i know what kicker says, i think im going to try the larger recommended sealed enclosure. I mean its only wood right. Now this thing can get loud as hell now. I know its way louder than the Memphis M3's i have, and they dont make all the mechanical noises like the M3's did. i had replaced the diaphrams several times on those chitty subs even at low excursions ths coil would hit the motor and start to unwind one pair did it after 10 mins of relatively easy playing. and at a little over $100 a pop i am tired of fixing them.I have 5 pairs of diaphrams that are just slightly damaged from this they still play, and still test good. /rant

i know i will fail atleast a few times before i get it right.

well i got them in..... I fail at building boxes,it sounds horrible after a couple hours tuning it sounds like ass. So i guess that means another trip to lowes for another sheet of MDF and try to fail again

i know that there are better sub choices out there, but i am looking for something a bit better than Memphis M3's. The kx 2500.1 may or may not run at 1 ohm, i know that the 1500 will do 2 ohms easiy

i like the kenwood unit above but it says it needs a blue tooth adapter or something i want an all in one thing

I think that the rca's might possibly be going bad on my pioneer DEH P6400. I am wanting to replace it but i dont want to buy a crappy one. what do u recommend that fits my budget of $200-$250? I prefer the look of flip down faces i dont really like seeing a cd slot in the face.And maybe a remote like my pioneer has

Ok $0-$400 where will that get me? that has got to be a pretty big field

Bluetooth capability would be a bonus too, i guess i would be able to make hands free calls with that right? Im not going to buy used, i have been screwed on someone elses junk so many times im not even exploring the idea of used,sorry Also i have to buy locally no paypal and i dont use credit cards

OK here goes I built a box for one of my subs since one was damaged in shipping and i am waiting for a replacement, Memphis 12'' M3 dvc 4 ohm. It is ported and is 2.0 cubes after port and sub displacement. The port is 2.5 inches wide and 12.5 inches high and 27.75 inches long. can anyone tell my why this does not have hardly any output? I am running a Memphis PR 1.1000 amp it is seeing 2 ohms which according to the owners manual is 600 watts RMS@ 2 ohms. I have already checked the all of the electrical connections, The sub is wired fine no out of phase coil or anything. Now if i put my old subs back in they sound awesome, wtf did i do wrong?

well i want to replace it anyway so is the Kenwood KDC 635 worth buying it sounds pretty nice

I currently have a Pioneer DEH P6400 i got it in FEB of 2003 brand new it was a gift from my GF so thats the biggest reason for wanting to keep it, but i have a 88 fullsize chevy that it would work in if i get a new one for the blazer

well who would have thought that bad, brand new, rca's would cause so many dumb problems? I drove the blazer to work today and called the audio shop owner where i had been buying my stuff,he came down to my shop and looked at it and wanted to reset gains. He was testing the HU to see where the RCA's clip at on the volume dial and came in and said that i had a bad rca cables. Well i ran a set temporarly through the truck....WOW!........FKIN WOW! AT FLAT EQ NO LOUD 1/2 gain! I had both subs in and it so loud i could not stand to be in the truck. He said that there is alot more in the system, At flat settings no BB/LOUD my preouts clip hard at 27 of 62. His reccomendation was a line driver to up the preout voltage, or to purchase a head unit that has a higher preout voltage. He sells Kenwood, Clarion,and JVC HU's. I saw a Kenwood that caught My eye and i like the way it looks, He said it has the higher preout voltage that i would be looking for.I think it was a KDC635MP maybe, i know the number was 635, He said That the clarions are nowhere near as good as they used to be, and i am inclined to believe him with demoing a few of their HU's they sound so chitty even compared to the $99 Kenwood Hu's he has on his display board. I wont even consider JVC Those just do not appeal to me at all

no i have not had a sealed setup since i had 10'' kicker comps in '05, i had those on a 760 watt pioneer that every one owns one or two of. I found that a ported system like my 2 10'' PR's was what i was looking for. That got loud for $120 a pair on 1,000 watts but that box is tuned so high I think it is 41 Hz, i just went with the audio shop reccomended and let them build it. Then with this i thought i knew better than they did but i was wrong. I have decided that since i have failed at this i will let them handle the install this time i have given up completely. You guys have tried helping me but i am just too dumb to understand what you are trying to tell me

no im not looking for output outside the truck, thats just asking to have your chit stolen. But i am going to try the 2 sub setup as that is not the direction i wanted to go but i guess i have to. i got the chance to listen to a 2 door blazer with 2 M3 12'' like mine on a 850 watt SSL (soundstorm=cheap) and it sounded very good i would imagine that SSL is about 300w RMS, so i should be able to get it right this time. Ca.com can suck my balls u post a question and have to weed through BS before theres any real answer. EDIT as for bass output with door open theres none inside the vehicle. I certinately dont want it to be loud Outside the truck with normal listening(hence the deadener) theres too many people in this world that refuse to work for what they want so they resort to stealing it from people who work.

no im done gong back to stock i have wasted too much time with this i am tired of asking for advice, i will just have to say that i dont know what i am doing and im too stupid to figure out simple stuff like this. the roof flex i wasnt worried about getting i dont get any sub output unless i jack the bass controls all the way up, then it just ruins the front sound. I dont know what i was thinking when i thought these subs would be louder than the Memphis Power Reference subs

i know that 20 hz cant be heard.useless posts like your are the reason i hate ca.com. I was simply stating that my sub does work and does have some output but seemingly not in the audible range. jesus i thought i found a place with out douches but i was wrong

Ya i switched to the other M3 to see if it was a driver issue. The sub and the port are on the same face of the box, i have tried sub up, forward,each side and back. i have not tried to downfire it. When i set the EQ and loud for maximum bass once u open the door and get out you cannot hear bass. If i play a 20 Hz test tone the truck will flex like mad but theres no sound just roof flex and the rear window looks like it wants to jump off of the back hatch

Oh i forgot i have a 99 S10 Blazer 4dr. If i throw a lot of bass boost, low frequency EQ, or loud i get bass. but that seems to Destroy any sound i have from my Front components Which are powered by a 150.2 memphis amp, i have the crossover set around 100 Hz on the fronts or as near as i can tell. Every where i read i keep seeing that install is key to proper performance. Imean my front stage is setup awesome My doors are fully deadened, i took the plastic door speaker mounts off and duplicated them with MDF. I have over 100 lbs of Dynamat (i know theres better)in the truck, i have built every enclosure i have been reccomended for 1 sub. Today i even switched the sub i had been using for the one that i was waiting for. So it is not a sub issue i believe it is my install. i have about 100 bucks worth of wasted MDF in sub boxes that wont be any good to anyone. I dont know if anyone local will buy them from me and im sure no one wants to pay for them AND shipping

no low bass? what a waste of 500 bucks. well i guess these ARE junk.I screwed my self on these didnt i?

M3 124D

ok i checked the coils on both subs with my Vantage I got 1.7 and 1.6 ohms on each sub, i tried my leads from my old dmm and it said 2.2 ohms so those leads are in the trash can now ill get new ones from snapon man this week. I have a box i built that is 4.5 @30Hz for the pair (i think). 60^2in of port 33.5 inches long. does that sound right? i hope i have a lot of time in it and it looks very good.

well that is with my old dmm, i dont have my Snap On Vantage here at home today.The leads may be shot on the old dmm. i guess i will just get a different set of subs. I thought memphis equipment was supposed to be good. I think i would have had better luck with some Wal Mart pioneer 12's. I am really starting to lose interest in this hobby as i am constantly getting in the ass when i buy this stuff. I have asked many questions done many searches, This is the third attempt at trying a single sub setup. I guess i just need to scrap this idea now that i have my other sub here. Is there a good reccomendation on where to start with two of the M3's? Volume suggestions? Tuning Frequency suggestions? I want it to be loud but sound good. The clarion amp says it puts out 1500 watts Rms @1 and 2 ohms, it is strappable and i can go get another one if i need to.I would rather use the one as my alt is only capable of 225 amps, and i dont want to add a 3rd or 4th battery.

The coils read 2.2 ohms DC resistance,i swapped amps yesterday an tried that but it still still sounds sloppy and is not very loud,(Clarion DPX11500) If i set the bass settings to the max and run the LOUD i can get some bass. I know the box is airtight, all of my cuts are dead on straight and square,plenty of glue i smoothed it into a nice bead along all the joints as i assembled it. I know i have plenty of power but i think that my box isnt whta it was supposed to be. I am thinking i made a mistake with the port tuning and it is too low EDIT thats 2.2 ohms with coils in parallel

Can anyone check to see that my enclosure is built correctly? it is supposed to be 2.00 cu.ft. @36 Hz, is that what it is? It is 30'' long, 14.5'' high, 14'' deep, the port is 2.5'' wide, 12.5'' high, 27.75'' long it is built like the plan shown below