stovebolt6

Alot. We play music on it with the four 1500s for short periods. --- Dropped it in a vehicle @ the show this past weekend in Roseboro, NC (Competition Only) and it gained vs. an RE MT -- the box was WAY too big for the beast but it was still louder by a fair bit on the same power, and continued to get louder on double the power where the MT dropped off due to power compression. i may have missed it, but what coil is in it? the 8 layer or 12 layer?

they might be recone able you need to mic the od id and depth of the gap then other companies such as fi pap ia can see if they have a coil that will fit the gap dimensions. i know fi can fix a shifted motor i don't know about the other companies. and fi might only fix their motors only.

well if you have room for a 12" then you have room for my tc 3000 15" it only needs 2.3 to 3.0 cubes ported to sound good. i had it in as little as 2.0 cubes ported just too see how it sound and it still ddin't sound choked just lacking in lowend. 2.5 is were i kept it the most at 32 and 38 hz and they are known to handle as much as 2500rms daily.

everything listed so far is capable of that with enough testing and experimenting.

i have used redots before and like them, but i really want to try out a holographic sight. the ones with only one lens. they are supposed to take a little to get used to them. your supposed to keep both eyes open and focus on your target not the sight and the reticule is then superimposed on the target. they claim to be even faster on target than redots, and they are supposed to not have the problem with having to keep the dot centered in the tube as to avoid a point of impact shift. it use the same trick as when you look through a paper towel tube with one eye while the other eye is still open, and look at your hand. if you do it right it makes it look like there is hole in your hand.

i haven't had the pleasure of testing one yet, although it is on my list of things to try.

are they more spl oriented or sQ? sq oriented but are very happy with exaggerated low end like the icon's.

i mentioned that i was not old enough to witness the pyramid and pyle rf back then. it was my 65 year old neighbor that told me about that when he was into car audio back in the late 70's through the late 80's. those were the top three brands for subs for when/were he was from, which was southern louisiana.

also if you don't like anything i have may i recommend the mach 5 ixl they are in the same category as the others you listed, and a very nice driver in my opinion.

i like testing different subs out i actually had my system designed, and arranged so it was easy to swap boxes in and out. and buying used is the most cost effective way to do so. and i just so happen to have some nice high power handling sq based subs http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=21516

the ruger rim fire pistols were always known for there accuracy i just don't like how hard it is to take down and reassemble.

he may be thinking of when they were still popular. as i stated earlier i was around right near the end of them, but a older chap i know has been around since the 70's, and he stated back in the late 80's when pyle, pyramid, and rockford where all around the same level of performance- so was dr. crankenstien, and these were consider some of the top brands back then. i wouldn't know as when i was getting into car audio that brand was becoming a underdog according to the other car audio chaps that were around at the time.

if you can get to them wit a dremel you can cut slots in them. or you can go to a sears store in the craftsman tools section, and look for these bits that go in a drill they are made for taking screws out with stripped out heads. i want to say they are called screw outs not positive on that one.

i remember them from back in the days they were comparable to entry level audio back in the 90's. such as kicker impulse, kicker comps, rockford series 1, and so on. but as technology progressed they didn't and kind of faded away. come to think of it right around when i started to get into car audio was right when they were well onto there way into oblivion.

i vote for the ixl. i was rather impressed with the 12 i got to test, and mark is a excellent person to deal with.

lol nice maybe a thin composite 1 inch long collar to slide over the coil, with glue? that way you have a large amount of surface area contacting to former wrap.

it might be fine if the impedance rise caused by the box is high than a .67 static load won't be a problem. your best bet is to just watch it very carefully, to see if it gets hot. now with the lower than designed ohm load comes some negatives. your amp will put out a higher distortion level, it will be easier to clip your amp, and of course if it gets hot enough it could shorten the amps life. now if the slightly louder output is worth those ^^ risk? well thats up to you.

my back glass started leaking through the rubber seal shortly after putting in my old setup. don't know how loud it was no meter. the back glass flexed alot though. edit: since i don't know the output i guess i could give some info in its place a 1991 tercel and it was two opti2000d's strapped to a tc3000 15" in the trunk.

thats why i was real careful and used the word IF in that last post. Ehhh. It is almost guaranteed to have problem with cone flex, just as bad as square cones. there is a good chance, but i will still buy it and try it one day. that's what i do. i have been through about 50 or so subs in the past year and a half. just to test them and listen to them. i buy them try them some i sell some i keep. if you go off of individuals numbers i have a little over 20 subs right now and eight of them i still have yet to test them lol.

thats why i was real careful and used the word IF in that last post.

if they have a good enough sq, were just a little eq is needed. it would be sweet to try them as infinite baffle in factory locations. they might work real well in sq setups. but i won't know until i buy one, and test it.

yea i have been thinking about buying one of the 8 by 12's to test out. i tested the 5.25's and i actually like them enough to buy a total of eight, and in 2.3 cu.ft. tuned to 37hz. with 500rms (was real careful with the volume lol) the output was comparable to a jlw3 12, and a pr Memphis 12, which i also tested in the same vehicle/setup.

I love those things 3-on-the-tree and non-syncromesh? I tried that on a '40s grain truck, kicked my ass the first time not quite mine is a sagnaw three speed with first syncro'ed, and i converted the column to floor shift after three years when i put bucket seats in it.

here you go this is all i have loaded right now

well it is about my truck i drive a 1952 chevy 3100 series truck, and the engine in it is a straight six. those inline six cylinders had a reputation for being very tough, and ended up getting the nickname of stovebolt engines.