themerc

It's 4 cubes tuned to 31-32Hz and it definitely bottom outs at 25Hz. I blew a fuse when I played 25Hz and it bottomed out and I don't want to try 30Hz and blow another fuse.

Yeah today I tried playing bass I love you and at a certain point the sub bottomed out. Back when I first put the sub in I accidentally played a 25hz tone instead of a 35hz tone and the sub bottomed out and I blew a fuse in my power distribution block lol. I guess I'm not worried about the excursion anymore... I'll try to make it to a competition this month and get it metered.

What do you mean?

My subsonic is set at 1/4 turn up, what Jacob Fuller told me to set it to.

I have a craftsman DMM with DC clamp. I set the gain with the 35hz tone after me and my friend listened to different tones at low volume and decided 35hz sounded the loudest. I set my LPF to around 80hz I believe. I need to check that subsonic though.

I don't want excursion, I just want the loudest possible daily setup, and people said from my videos something didn't look right. They said it was probably my enclosure.

Yeah I set the gain playing a 35 Hz tone and measured the voltage at the amp's speaker terminals. I turned up the gain until I reached around 31.5 volts (sq. root of 1000 watts x 1 ohm is 31.6 volts), which just happened to be about 3/4 of the way up. I didn't hear any distortion, I just thought that I shouldn't be turning the gain past 3/4 of the way up, so I didn't keep turning it up. About the excursion, I've never had anything this powerful before. My last setup was 2 Kicker CVR12's ported with 2 Kicker 400.1's powering them, so I don't know if my setup is as loud as it should be. I posted those first 2 videos on a forum and everyone said something didn't look right and my sub should be slamming playing those songs.

My channel #2 isn't working on my amp. I get very little sound and it's very distorted. I checked all the RCA and speaker connections on the amp and behind the headunit, I checked the fuses, I tried switching speakers, I tried unhooking my SAE-1000D, I tried switching polarity, nothing worked. Any idea what could be wrong? I took the amp out of the car. Should I look for anything inside the amp?

I'm going to be running a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D and an SAX-100.4. My stock alternator is 135A, I've done the big three with 1/0 gauge, I've got a 1/0 gauge run to the trunk, and I've got a group 65 Duralast Gold battery under the hood... Do you think I'll need a second battery or any other electrical system changes?

Well I ended up frying my 135A alternator and I didn't even hook up both amps yet. I ordered a 250A alternator and 2 Kinetik hc1800's.

Okay. The box is 4 cubes @ 31-32 Hz for an Fi Q15. The box is strangely shaped because a spare tire is going to be standing up vertically behind the box to the right of the port. This was my plan. I was going to add 2 more vertical 2x4's to the right and left of the sub hole. The baffle, port, and vertical brace are NOT permanent yet. They haven't been attached yet. That's what's permanent. I was told the back wave is going to be fed directly into the port and that usually doesn't work well. Should I change my port? Anything else?

So just move the sub as far to the right on the front baffle as possible. Would the strange shape of my box cause any problems?

Great. Thanks again.

Alright, my 2 amps came in. My kicker amps never had this many controls, so I'm going to need some help... How do I hookup the RCA's on the 1000D? Besides the gain, how should I set the other controls? Why are there 2 speaker terminals if it's a 1 channel amp? Which terminals do I use for a single dual 2 ohm sub? How do I hookup the RCA's on the 100.4? ...All the controls? The manuals say practically nothing. 1000D... 100.4... If you need a better picture of something please let me know.

Thank you so much. This is one of the main reasons I bought Sundown amps... the customer service. I only have a couple more questions. Does 80 Hz on the 1000D LPF sound good? and what do I set my headunit LPF to? Thanks a lot guys.

Alright, my headunit has 3 separate plugins for RCA's... front, rear, and subwoofer. My headunit also has a LPF, but not a HPF. For the 1000D, 1. Should I use the positive and negative for sub A? or the positive in sub A and negative in sub B? 2. My sub box is going to be tuned to 31-32 Hz, so I should set the subsonic filter to around 20 Hz? 3. What do I set the phase to? 4. I use the top left and bottom left inputs for my RCA's correct? Does it matter which is which? For the 100.4, 1. Should I use one set of RCA's from my headunit front to channels 1 and 2 on the amp inputs and another set of RCA's from my headunit rear to channels 3 and 4? 2. Are the top half controls all channels 1 and 2? and bottom half all channels 3 and 4? 3. Should I set both controls to HPF? 4. My front speakers are 5.25" components and they can't take midbass. My rear speakers are 5x7" coaxials and they can take midbass better. What should I set the HPF's to for each of them? 5. What should I set the ranges to? 6. Do I leave all 4 of those bass boost controls at 0? 7. I leave both LPF's at 0 I'm assuming? 8. What should I set the subsonic filters to? For both amps, I leave the bass boosts at 0. I don't use the remote bass control. For the headunit, 1. What should I set the LPF to? Sorry I have so many questions, I just want to get this right the first time. I have a Panasonic CQ-C7103U headunit with 2V preamps by the way.

I ordered an Fi Q15 with BP Power option. Would a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D be a good match for this sub?

Okay thanks. I looked at kinetik prices on ebay... the hc1800 was going for about $200 shipped and the hc2400 was going for about $270 shipped. Can I run an hc2400 with a stock alternator?

Sorry I meant at your amp power terminals when you're system is at full tilt.

Wow, perfect. What kind of voltage are you giving the amps?

Anybody? How should I brace it? I've got .247 cubes saved for bracing.

Could one of you check my port length for me? 4 cubes @ 32Hz with 2.75" wide x 20.5" tall port is what I'm aiming for. I used an online calculator and it said the port needed to be 29.5" long... but someone else told me it needed to be like 36.5"? Thanks a lot

Thanks. Well I've designed the box. I wanted it 4 cubes @ ~31-32Hz. The box is strangle shaped because a spare tire is going to be sitting behind the box, standing up... the spare and left back part of the box will press against a back wall in my trunk. I need to fill up the remaining .247 cubes with bracing. What do you think will be the most effective way to brace it? By the way the baffle is double thick.

How do you measure the port length of a maze looking port? Which walls do you measure? or diagonals like pythag. theorem?

Okay, that's actually the online calculator I used lol.