rastaman

i would go 15 Q sealed, get the loudness and keep SQ for your drums and such

A guy wants to buy my SSDs. I really see no future use for them. If I end up getting a car I will probably just put my bl 10 in. So they are 12" with copper coil, and 1 ohm coils. I used them for ~4 months with a hifonics 1606 amp, never clipped the amp so I know the drivers are in a-1 shape. Thanks for the input.

Just some piccy's of my box build. 1.2 cubes ported at 35 hz. Haven't figured out if I'm going to do a slot or a round port. I've done the calcs for both in winISD and I'm ready to do whichever one is easier. Trusty table saw! And a piece of wood. Stack of wood and toolboxes... My blue prints. I am a engineer, after all! This is where its at right now. I'm thinking about the port and whatnot. The top will be skinned with a 1/8th wood, I forget what it's called at the moment, it's in some of the pictures. It'll have foam on top and covered with black vinyl, it's the new center console in my pickup. Sub placement will be a little different, but when I get to that point I'll show you! My grandma gave me a nailgun for my birthday...how SICK is that?! My memories of my stopped-but-not-forgotten drag racing days. More updates this week.

Sounds like your on the right track so far. Main power cable from the battery to the trunk, to the blocks is acceptable. I'd recommend putting both amps together so you can get them to the same grounding point, which is preferably to the frame. If you worried about the acoustics of the length of speaker wires, don't, it will be inaudible. If your worried about actually running the wire, think about the other way. You'll have to run a power cable from the trunk, and you'll have to reground. Much simpler to have one ground for two amps and leave it at that, helps minimize noise as well. Good luck with your system

Haha...must be trying to put out Mac...because it's on fire. I know, lame, but one photochop deserves another. thmbup

Fixed!!!!!!

So chitty wire/connecters was most likely the problem then? Gotta love this hobby...learn things everyday.

Really? What else could induce noise through RCA's? My first setup had non shielded RCA's next to the power cord, and when I went to shielded the noise went away.

Word ^ If your having noise issues, perhaps because you have your RCA's running parallel to your power wires, it would be wise to pick up some shielded RCA's.

The only way to make the box you have now work, is to seal it off. That will require effort. Just as much effort could be put into making your own box, built perfectly to spec. You could send it back and get the real one. Or, you could go to www.caraudioforum.com (sorry if this isn't allowed) and PM a guy named mobileman. I don't know if he is on this site or not. He will build you a box suited perfectly for that woofer. Best of luck and Merry Christmas.

Phoenix Gold Ti6 comp elites...made by Morel of Israel. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=1236 160 watts into it will make em sing. fo sho.

Since when has a 4 foot ground become worse then a 3 foot ground? I currently have a 6 foot ground and a 4 foot ground so I can ground my amps to the same place(frame). No noise and no problems at all. If I wanted to go shorter, I'd have to ground separate and risk noise. Short ground is a myth started by wire companies so they can sell you less wire for more money.

Good luck hearing your stock speaks if you buy a 12" BTL. Buy a sub, and only use 1% of it's potential so it'll blend in with your fronts. Why not port a 12" BL? BTL's are SPL fart machines. Does your car have the electrical to power an amp that outputs the 2k watts a BTL needs? Why not step down to a 12" ported BL, run 1K ish watts to it and call it a day. Or do a 15" Q sealed, it will sound good and the larger speaker size will still get loud. When you realize you don't need a very loud sub to blend with your fronts, you'll love the fact that the 15 will barely have to move to make sound and sound amazing. Good luck with whatever you end up doing.

word on dual monitors. just lame photoshops of my truck.

And just to show pobody's nerfect, it does say "left side" on the right side of the box.

More pictures. The box in it's entirety: This is closeup of the port, where it meets the curve of the box. I didn't think it through before I skinned it. I should have put a piece above the port and below the port so I would have something solid to nail the skin to over the port, and make it look real nice. The bottom didn't flex very much but the top sure did. I just hope the vinyl will make it look halfway decent. This is just a view down the port. Pretty dusty. This is the cutout for the top skin. I am NOT happy with it. It was a pain to cut a good circle, the wood kept vibrating. This is the third attempt, and this part is the only messup I had. You can also see part of the mounting hardware. I haven't put the back piece on yet, still trying to figure that one out because I'd like to make it removable. Little bit of wood splittage, got a lil trigger happy with the nail gun. And the Fi ad, thrown in for kicks. All that's left is back piece and covering.

Mounted the sub, put the top piece on, looks sick...but now with the hardware I used to mount the subs(10x24 bolts, with nuts and locking nuts) I'll never be able to take the sub out without removing the top skin, which is glued and nailed on. Oh well...it'll make carpeting it a lot more fun! (thumb DOWN)

Hifonics...ehhhh not so much. Go to Cadence.com and go to their outlet store, then amps, and snag a TXA 1000D. It's been benched at 1.2-1.4k watts by several people. Much better buy then a Hifonics. Per sub woofer choice, I'd do a 15Q sealed. Should sound very nice and get very loud at the same time, if you can fit a 18, do it. 18's are cool. I'd never run more then 120 amps through 4 gauge. 2 gauge would suffice but there is so much more support in dblocks for 1/0, it would probably be easier just to go that route. Good luck

London, Ontario Canada. About an hour north of Windsor/Detroit. Tomorrow(or today, it's 2:30am and I just got off work) I will mount the sub, put the top piece on, and smooth it all down. I get my wire order from Knu tomorrow as well so that means I can wire the sub up, I have to take my seats out to get my current system out so that will have to wait until the weekend. I will take more piccys once I find the camera. Thanks for the compliments as well.

Just a quick update, I have the interior of the box built, the sub cut out done, I have to blend the port in with the curve of the front of the box tomorrow, skin it and cover it. My new wiring is coming in on wednesday if UPS is accurate. So I'm hoping to have it installed and tubthumping by saturday, it will most likely be finished Sunday tho.

Got the sub...it is gorgeous. Freakin heavy!!!! Shirt and stickers are a nice touch as well, I tossed a small one on the back window of my truck. Look for updates to my other thread possibly on Sunday

Hey Scott/Nick, I ordered a sub awhile back and you guys were pretty gracious in helping me out. Now I have another question, does shipping to Canada usually take longer then expected? Ya'll emailed me that my BuzzLightyear shipped on Nov 16 with 6-10 days wait. It's been a lil longer then that. I was wondering if customs gets held up around this time of year, and if you've ever had problems like this. Thanks guys.

what kind of truck? i put two 12" ssd's in my SC sierra and was more then satisfied with the LSQ.

I take paypal :drink40: 20 years for this fine specimen of a man today!

I agree wholeheartedly with wanging away not being bad for the driver. But if it's a brand new sub/box setup, or you've never heard the subs, play them at moderate levels so you know what they sound like. So when you turn them up more and more, you'll be able to tell when their clipping or distorting. You slam straight outta the gates and you might be hurting them, but you've never heard it to know it. Make sense?