ncc74656

ive been reading a lot into caps and it makes sense to me that they would be there to smooth the ups and downs of voltage going into the amp. from what i understand IF i used caps i should have 10 .5 farads as opposed to 1 5 farad cap. idk, in either case sears sent me an email that there is an issue with stock on the batters i bought last night (have not picked them up yet) so ill figure it out today. maybe just use a 3rd AGM that i pick up some where in the back? like a small stinger or something? if the math is correct i think i have JUST enough electrical for my amps.

i bought 2 group 31 batteries for my truck last year, they are now dead to the point that they can not start my truck in teh cold. i do not have lots of money to spend so i am looking for advice on whawt the best batteries are with out spending 700 on stingers. I have a cummins turbo deisel that requires about 220A for 30 seconds in cold weather to heat the air intake, it pulls 750-950A from the starter for about 15 seconds of cranking when cold. i have 1500W of amps for mids/highs and a 2500.1 for my sub. my alt can handle them just fine while running. what 2 batteries should i get? should i go agm for starting or stick wtih liquid acid?

I am looking for some amp meters and an oscope. id like to get your guys's opinions as to what brands and models work well. id love to have flukes but the cost is just to high for right now. i was looking into those pocket oscopes but id like to be able to have a comparative input option so i can pull from 2 sources at a time. anyone know if they make such a module?

i have htat book downloaded. im reading mecp at the moment tho why in the hell does everyone talk about clamp tests and such if they are worthless? isnt that stupidly expensive machine that SMD built just a glorified clamp test? more so than any other field i have ever gotten into i feel like EVERYTHING that the layman and front pages of the internet know to be true about car audio is nothing but lies!

i have not designed a setup yet for the back of my truck. i have lots of room but am not sure exactly how i want to use it. the sub needs to be in the middle of the back seat so as to allow for proper clearance for excursion. outside of that i need to leave the floor of hte back seat open for tool boxes and work around that. its a project for this spring i think.

i will have 2 or 3 amps in my truck to power my speakers. I want to remove them from under the rear seat and build some type of mounting device for them. i have an 8 cubic foot box for my SP4 - could i mount the amps on the side of this box or on some wood attached to this box OR would the vibrations be less than ideal for my amps?

id like to have a scope to test alternators and set amps as well. i would be ok spending up to 150 or so on a scope if i could, im not in the market for a 2500.00 scope like those snapons but they do look pretty kool.

shops don't own tools, the employees or mechanics of that shop own tools. we all need our own. now why do you say clamp tests are useless?

i work at an audio shop and i would like to be able to diagnose issues with systems. currently only the manager there has such tools so on days that he is not there i do not have access to said tools. primarily i would like to be able to confirm data wires on vehicles with an o scope before i hook wires to them. 99% of the time our systems tell us correctly what is a data wire but every now and then we need to sit on hold for 3 hours with tech support to confirm what is what. come spring will be audio season and i would like to be able to do clamp tests, gains settings, and be able to more easily diagnose power drains.

I had a kicker but they will not repair it under warranty so im in the market for a new amp between 500-1000.00. what are some recommendations? thanks. dual 1 ohm 18" sub. looking for a 2500+W amp

I don't compete as much as I'm looking for a sound quality amplifier for my SP 4. As much as that can be applied to that type of sub anyway. what company do you work for and how many watts in your aMp are you thinking? I'd like some hard specs so I know if I should wait or buy something else. Thanks.

what kind of aMp are you thinking? time is only important in the sense that I'm tired of having no bass. I've got about a weeks worth of work to do on the truck before I'm ready to put A sub back into it. What kind of time frame were you thinking? April?

im looking for a crimper like this one but id rather not have to hit it with a hammer. does anyone know where to buy an impact gun driven crimper for 30 bucks or under? i found some 250.00 ones from snap on but thats it. http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/Tech%20Photos/crimper.jpg

would a deep cycle AGM be acceptable for a starting/stereo battery? i remember reading that AGM's can deliver much more voltage than a liquid acid.

ive been looking into a few batteries and i find myself running into an issue. when i look at the group 65's wich were factory then i need to use the battery terminals and none of them have enough ports. at factory i need on one battery: neg terminal - 8ga body ground, 0ga block ground, 0ga frame ground, 12ga power block ground. positive terminal - 0ga to other battery, 0/2 ga to starter, 4ga to power distro block. on the other battery i have: ground - 8ga body ground, 0ga block ground, 0ga frame ground. positive term - 0ga alternator wire, 0ga from other battery. even running iwth NO added devices i can not find ANY terminals that can hold this. i presently have ring terminals for my group 31's on all my batters. is it acceptable to stack my terminals and bolt them down on a single post or should i have a distro block for all this? if a distro block is best then should i run some prefab block or build one of those strips of metal off the terminals like ive seen in youtube videos? i will be adding ** over and above the above listed factory cables** at least 4 18-10 ga grounds and 2 0ga powers, 1 4ga power, and 4 10-18ga power wires. there are 4 additional 0ga powers, 1 4ga power and 1 8ga power that is running off one of the 0ga power wires on each battery through a copper plate. end question is should i go back go group 65's or should i stick with 31's?

now that you mention it our shops smaller crimpers are also filed down, they were slightly narrowed due to the crimpers being wider than the crimp termals we mostly use (for remote start grounds and such). before getting into this job i only soldered a few things and quite badly at that. we have to solder every wire we tap or connect at the shop tho. ive got some new parts coming for various areas of my truck so when i put them in ill be ripping out most of my existing wiring and getting ready to do things right.

cant do that at work, its not allowed. we need to use a crimper tool and solder it and shrink it/tape it. i think i may look at the harbor freight tool, we dont sell larger than 0/1 anyway so id think it would be ok. the bulk is a little disconcerting however. man id love a way to just use my impact hitachi but meh, it is what it is. my boss has 2 that also stamp + or - on the terminal when you hammer it. trouble is when running cable i run into a shorter run that's through the fire wall in the front of the car so i cant stretch it anywhere to hammer on it.

i was thinking of using a conduit and i have 3 runs of 0/1 so im in the same spot as you are. id be more worried about corrosion with a crimp only than a crimp and solder. i also want to see if i can combine some of hte wires, run 2 amps from 1 0ga instead of running 0ga and 8ga down the line.

due to an exploded turbo i need to dig into my truck so id like to fix some wiring. i have some runs of 0ga that i would like ot not throw away but perhaps combine into one long run or do some light extension to them to route them better. how should i combine 2 sets of 0ga cable? my first thought is to but the ends together and solder them, then wrap with shrink or tape. secondly have any of you run wires in the frame rails and pulled them up into cab in back instead of running through the fire wall and under the carpet? what are your thoughts and recommendations on this method?

i thought about that. didnt think it was a great idea tho as the terminals to connect them together would be cheaper than a fuse and block.

perhaps. i have not gone through my install yet but i plan to in a week or two. my turbo exploded on me so im trying to find one of them to replace it with atm.

neither had i.... but so be it, now im looking for a better one thats no so crappy.

my group 31's were from auto zone. 1 year warranty and i got them 13 months ago... so yea

i woudl like to have a battery with threaded posts on it such as a group 31 has and AGM is what i want to try this time round.

i assume they make crimp and solder connectors for this joining as well right? id much rather have than then a screw down post. ill maybe pick up some pvc pipe and run it through that down there. perhaps use CPVC as it runs down by the engine exhaust entering the frame rail. EGT's get up to 2400F so id want to protect it there. might want to get a bit of aluminum for a heat shield even.