cshaw

Yup, decided id go the other way and make an awesome front stage before tackling the subwoofer stuff first! ive always had different 6.5 comp sets and a sub stage but even with tuning and refining, never felt like you are there at the show front and center. ive gotten the staging close but with active x/o's on a on-axis 2-3 way front stage, i think thats what im really looking for. currently running 01 accord hertz hsk 6.5 comps old pioneer deck, also have a alpine 98-47 that ive had forever. soundsplinter rlp-15 future plans 2-3 way active front stage. ipod/iphone with line driver. or maybe an active deck? us amps md 21 on hertz tweeters 125-200 rms bridged 4 ch. amp? on crescendo 8" mids. possible 3 way with hertz mid ranges? orion 1200 on a soundsplinter rl-p 15 sealed or ported HSK's are in and are on hu power...and dialed in as most as can be on this crappy hu. trying to find actual 2 or 0 ga power wire in sofla is kinda crazy? sound advice wanted $150 for 25 ft of jl wire lol local shops are all closed this time of year.... anyways, md 21 for hert tweeters and orion 1200 for substage. 3 cubes sealed box from a few builds ago. going to rebuild to better fit trunk, might port this one to see how it sounds at first using aero ports/ different tunings. hertz 6.5 mid vs crescendo 8"mid the doors i have to work with. the hertz 6.5 barely fit with a 3/4 baffle. the 8" mids are gonna need another inch and 1/8 on top of that to clear the window at minimum. (3.75 mouting depth total) plus i have to cut away 2" or so of the metal and create new wider baffles to allow the basket to even fit as the magnet alone barely fits into the mounting diameter of the hertrz 6.5 haha.

i really wanted a pioneer 80prs, but having my 98-47 for so long, figured id get a newer alpine CDE 154bt. im used to the alpine menus! with 4v rca outs and the app tuneit, i can do all the tuning, t/a and x/o settings for cheaper. but its gonna be 2 weeks to get here... plan on building a ported box for the 15 using a precision 6 inch port from PE tuned at 35 out of birch. whats the best configuration in a trunk? for my hatch sub up port back always worked. ive seen sub up port drivers side alot but i bet it differs from car to car. talked to a guy at tinworld about just getting a line driver if i just wanted to use my phone as a source and all he said was it would induce noise and is mainly used for video. idk if he just couldnt pin point ground issues or what, but ive never known anyone with that problem personally.

thats my best friend, im the drummer, the def one lol. anyways just got an app that does test tones, and all sorts of stuff! back when i was more into car audio, i still had a flip phone haha. this shall be interesting, more stuff to play with! i hate how updates, and new software dumb things down over time. the more buttons and stuff to learn and play with, the better. but less of a learning curve = more $$. yay capitilsm!!!! this is why i never update itunes or any other software shit until i have to.

soooo, gained some voltage doing batt ground, and alt to batt. in 0ga. not having a head unit is killing me not being able to adjust L to R balance, t/a and having low voltage from my phone amongst many other things. also had to add more super glue to my driver door mid. this is the before shot. wasnt sure what it would do to the rubber so i left that how it is. soooo stupid how the hertz hsk's are made. anyone see whats wrong here? been jammin out in the warehouse when im not workin on the car!

that ported box was made of birch. not sure what stain i used, i made it in like 2008. 2 coats of stain and a few layers of poly clear. do those pods go on the doors or in the kick panels? doh-zer? anybody know what i can temperaly wire my remotes to untill i get a decent hu? idk i might just wait.

just other setups ive done with this sub. sadly, i was lazy and this ported box was created using re's box calculator. suppose to be 4 cubes at 30 hz. 56 sq of port area. never found out what it actually was. gave it away locally.

sooo this happened today. ive already used super glue before to fix it. maybe hot glue this time or both? the glue is ment to be flexible but vibrations cause havoc. i hate having the x/o's out on the door anyways. easy access for the -3db, 0db and +3db tweeter att buttons though! nothing special. got everything up and running today. all wires ran to the front and amped. further tuning is needed on both amps and to blend sub stage and front stage together. never got around to finishing big 3 but it averages 13.5v with music. and dips to 12.8 on dubstep/bass songs. main wire from alt goes to the fuse box before going to the battery, so this is a major thing i have to do along with run a remote wire cause i lack hu experience. really want a 80 prs or an older alpine or eclipse with all the eq/ta they use to have. this sealed box has always been really awkward dimensions wise. always fits but not really. idk why ive worked around it, but i made it work. ideally, since this is my first trunk setup, i want to seal off the trunk and build a box with a removable, tunable port. on certain songs, it sounds like my car is falling apart in the trunk. cheaper and easier just to seal it off im guessing.

sundays list of things - finish the big 3 with all 0ga, run speaker wire to the front doors. today, found out im missing a set screw on the remote wire on my md2d.... fastenal might have set screws? closed on on weekends tried multiple bone yard amps set screws with no luck. picked up some 12ga speaker wire, 250a fuse, odds and ends mostly today. got power to the trunk, and couldnt help but rig up some bass for the drive home lol. my current hu has no rca outs i found out. got my old alpine 98-47 i might drop in for the time being. im trying to find a 4ch amp that does around 150 rms or more bridged to have some head room for around 200-250. but all the brands i used to know for sq and made solid power sold out or are crazy expensive. im just getting back into audio after not changing anything for a few years and then not having a stereo for a few years on top of that.

i really would like to get my current hertz mids more on axis but porting them or going ib is a bit much work for how long i plan on having this car for. honestly? maybe i just crave the top end midbass my sub should fill? today i compared my front stage with somebody who ran all 8" mids all around and i won on midbass........ haha. but.. that was the swap shop soooo.....yeah. find of the day was an older orion 800.4. 130x4 at 14.4v. thought he said 200 for it, came back later, he said he wanted 240! idk about all that. got 25' 0ga wire today enough for big3 and a run to the back along with a 0ga in 4 4ga out dist. block plus batt terminals.

i do have some mach5 6.5's but ive been using those for my home setup paired with mmats x/o and tweets since 2011.... the hertz dont bother me, i just want some balls in the mid bass range. im a drummer and i listen to a lot of 90's grunge, metal and classic rock. heavy guitars and lots of drum solos lol. i think im gonna try what i got, work for now. find a 4ch amp with decent specs and x/o's and go active, put some foam behind the speakers in the doors, maybe some polyfill? ive done that for sealed sub boxes but never in the doors... the doors actually dont have many holes in them.

i wont lie i had a few drinks when i decided to go with the 8's instead of the 6.5 mids haha. black friday sales, you know. rolls eyes. i put my self in pinch. kinda "SQL" front stage if you will? ive emailed crescendo and hertz about freq. resp. graphs to get a starting point of x/o points and what not.

also i plan on running less than rated power on the crescendos so i can run them a little lower than 70hz with less of a slope on the x/o. i plugged them in today into the hertz x/o's and they seemed peaky as hell compared to the hertz playing free air. they are a bit more efficient but damn. might have to eq these guys. while i was at it, checked for clearances after baffles and im sure im gonna have to not only remove the speaker grill but the 8" mids are too big to fit through them. so thinking of just fiberglassing the whole lower 1/3 of the door, and might as well make an active 3 way if i can fit everything!

hello ssa, havent been around for some time, and so i got an iphone!! downloaded the pandora app and could not wait to get the dubstep station rockin in my hatch. got it playing on the phone then plugged it in and it starts playing my itunes, bypassing pandora. i have a cda 9847 from when i first got the car. i remember it came with a converter box so you can plug in your ipod into it. im thinking thats just out dated as it doest charge my ipod video and iphone. can you even get a newer one that will work with my hu?

it would have to be the aux input as there is no usb input into the hu. i wish it had an aux input in the front, it would make this work. but not sure about the output quality of that. anyone realize the iphone is kinda bassy compared to ipods? i wish they had an eq on the iphone like they do on the ipods.

thanks guys, i am kinda partial to alpine if i can make it happen without being too pricey. ive been wanting to upgrade for more processing and ability to go active in the future anyways. haven't done any research on hu's in a few years, mine has been working for me just fine but i think its time to upgrade here soon. anywhere i should start as far as best bang for the buck?

dont know if this will help any but i used .8 tuned a around 45hz with a single 3" port for my bookshelves using the mli's. turned out great.

i guess my question doest really pertain to a full repair but thought i would ask before doing anything. the threads of the remote wire input have been stripped, not the screw threads or screw its self, just the plastic threads on the amps remote wire input. i thought about buying a slightly larger diameter screw but didt know if you guys could do something for me or if anyone had a idea or simple solution, thanks.

are guys going to make bars stools?? new market for FI?

finished with the second one, couldnt get a pic with both finished cause ones already hooked up inside. im just going to clear coat them later on or just leave em. idk

so, im currently redesigning yet another enclosure for my home theater mains. was wondering what the effects, pros, cons are on port placement. using a 3 inch round port. a 6.5 and a 1 inch tweeter. so top near tweeter or on bottom below mid or just rear firing? pros cons? im thinking port on bottom with about 2 inches of separation between port and mid.

here is where i am at at the moment. http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407144

im basically rebuilding the last design just taller and wider and port on the bottom, so i know port noise is nothing to be worried about, except when i played some bass music a bit loud just to see lol, but that is extreme.

welcome from florida!! i cant really be called a snow boarder but definitely a long boarder!!! (keep garages and bridges in mind!)

quick connect air tools lmao, that would be awesome! coming along nicely. how much port area? why not have the port go the extra distance to the sides for a bit extra port area?

also, belated welcome to ssa! fi has something for everybody really. cant go wrong. all around nice drivers. do you have a budget and maybe some music preferences?