cshaw

if you need any help with the build or anything, im down. im in west boca.

no complaints here! and ive had it for over a year.

glad to see hes trying ported. i remember he wanted to go louder and was trying to sell all that over at ca.com. i got mine in 4 cubes at 30hz, wondering how it will turn out!

cancellation?

for the fiber, there is a rating on how well it converts sound into heat called sabins, i think. but i remember that either the wool fiber or mineral fiber was best. just dont go grabbin for the pink stuff!

where to start. my friend told me he has 1k to spend on a pair of speakers for his house. so i started looking here for ideas. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=8762 mainly listening to music and movies in stereo. he looking for speakers that dont really need a sub. although he might consider his rl-i 10. last speakers he had where pioneer HMP-100s. which where a little bright but he liked them overall. anyone have any recommendations? or how about whats your favorite setup under that price?

floor standing. but 1k is for speakers, matrials, reciever and the whole shabangabang. reciever would depend on speakers and power required and if he wants a sub or not. but a plate amp will do. sub stage would be a different build i think anyway. not even sure what the room is like, he is in iraq.

sub up, port back seems to work most the time in suv's and hatches. both back can work great as well in an suv. sorry no real answer but its all in testing really. but with both back def. move the box around to see how it sounds using the suv's transfer function or loading off the back wall.

the cheapest and diy route is best. make yourself a copper bus bar.

not thread jackin at all. the rotozip is a few pages back, but none in action. link to attachment. http://www.amazon.com/RotoZip-CRCT2-Circle...t/dp/B00006AGPN extends out to a 20" circle, not a bad attachment. i was worried about this but, i may be retarded. i couldt get that thing to work at all. i returned it.

thats my fav. way as well, except i like to bolt the box down from the inside through the floor you make for added security.

not to thread jack, but pics of said rotor zip circle tool? i got the same one but didt come with attachment. but im getting good at free hand cutting circles, thats for sure. just want mines to be perfect

sweet build but def +1 for the loading vid as lmao. nice to see you here drew!

not finished yet, some sanding left, sealing the inside and deciding how to paint them, maybe flekstone idk.

i using them for the home stereo mains. built what mark recommended, .7 with a 3" port at 45hz. i was amazed at the sounds i heard. watched some movies and i was all smiles. no need for a sub stage, granted it is a small apartment. Mark, thanks for the smiles!

would i be completely wrong for designing and making my own 2.0 speaker play back system for my mains? i have nothing on which to play back so they would essentially be my near fields. for recording and such.( actually my left over car audio speakers in my closet lol) i have 2 mmats mid ranges along with tweeters and passive x/o

so scratch the original idea. im making some book shelfs for a friends new apartment. till he decides he has money to do the stereo, i made a test box at .5 sealed. mark recommended .7 ported at 45hz but i didt have enough scrap wood. anyway, how important is spacing between mid and tweeter? and spacing between edges of enclosure? taking a look at pro audio studio monitors rounding the edges makes for smoother freq. response, wider sound stage, and baffle diffraction? am i close? im just trying to understand how to make good sounding books shelfs as far as the enclosure goes. thanks

i hope its dope. using mmats pro silk tweeters and x/o's that cross at i think 3400 @ 12db/octave, which is kinda high but it'll work with this slope i think. its a small apartment so hoping it will fill in the room with some nice sounds. i didt think they needed more than 1/2 a cube each ported? i know subs that work in smaller spaces ha. i should be able to start sometime this week.

if i remember right theses mids were designed more for IB than anything, like being used in the door rather than in a small kick panel? i had them for about a year till i recently got some hsk's. but anyway, mine are sitting around so im making some book shelf or small towers out of them for my friends new place. how big of an enclosure would suite it? or i could just port it then tune somewhere above the fs of the mid. if ported whats a general tuning? never built ported book shelfs so whats the deal?

you didt die did you??

the basket has a bigger diameter than the magnet really, the basket goes right up to the mounting point its weird but if you look at the speaker at a side angle, youd know.

every company gives a recommended port area, or people like to use about around 12-15 square inches of port per cubic foot. ive got a rl-p 15 and am drafting a new box to fit under my hatch cover for better security reasons. my current box is 4 cubes after disp. at 30hz w/ 55.5 square inches of port.(in love) the one im drafting is will be 3.5 after disp. at 32.5 w/ 67.5 square inches of port. i dont know when i plan on building the new one, maybe when i have the cash flow and a job lol so how do you know you

the only thing i could think of would be reduced power handling because of a bigger box but not sure. not really an issue here.

1000wrms 3.5 cuft 28hz i was going to go with exactly that box, but opted for the 4 cubes at 30 one. i want to fit a box under my hatch cover so this is my next box. i might tune at 25 though

built a new box a month or so ago, 4 cubes tuned at 30hz with 55.5 square inches of port. its in a hatch crx style box, so really loud, never gotten metered, dont really care. i thought the sealed box was loud haha yeah right! perfect for daily, loud and very musical while doing so. very happy.