buickid

Sounds fun... and loud....

Keep It Simple Stupid

Heres mine, I hid the desktop icons though. Two monitor setup like the last fellow.

What amp are you running the SSD on?

Aha. You should write a "History of Sundown" thread or something. I think it would be interesting. :]

Jacob, how did you decide to make the 100.2 and 1500D in the same manual? The only pages they have in common are the Warranty and Troubleshooting.

Happy birthday!

That amp is stable to 2 ohms, so if you're going with one woofer, you want that one woofer to come out to 2 ohms. Dual 1 ohm coils in series will work out to 2 ohms. You probably want Dual 1, if you going with one woofer. If you're getting two woofers, then two Dual 1s wired in series, then parallel will give you 2 ohms as well. But it sounds like you're getting only 1 woofer.

I dunno, I would use an inline splice or something. Connecting wires like that leaves an opportunity for sketchy connections that take forever to figure out later when they start failing intermittently. Thats just my take anyway. I tend to build things for worst case scenario.

"Lift some weights, eat some steaks" Concentrate - Xzibit

SteveSan's Time Saving Tip For Life #1: When all else fails... read the manual.

4/0!?! Holy chit, thats like.... ANACONDA CABLE! Hmm, that sounds like a catch product name...

But that weak spot is probably a lack of mid/high range sound. Bass is pretty much omni-directional. You want a full-range. A 3" sub isn't going to make any useful "bass".

I read the FAQ Sticky, and the amps were having problems with Stinger and Memphis RCAs. :/

You don't need anything too fancy. IMO $80 is a bit much to spend on RCAs. Go check out what Parts Express has to offer under their Dayton Audio house brand. I bought one for my HT and its well made. 12ft http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=181-656 25ft http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=181-657 Also, certain expensive brands of RCA have a problem with the ground pin not making good contact. I think the FAQ Sticky will shed light on this.

Yeah, that refurb 1500D came excellently packed, the visible parts are pretty much mint, and it came fast. Works great too. Briefly hooked it up and tested it on my HT Dayton sub off of a 10Ah battery bank and a 10A PS. Even at pretty high volume the voltage never dipped below 13V. Thats efficient.

Cool.

I think the third one inspires a stop-motion video. Get a tweeter, and make an army of subs chase it, catch it, and swarm it.

Sweeeeet! Now go test it out.

Glad I could help! We're always here. Well, I mean I am. Cause I have no life beside SSA. >.>

Once you get over the current the alt can provide, the voltage will start dropping, probably to roughly around 12.8, then as the battery starts discharging, the voltage will start dropping more.

Out here in the middle of the ocean, I'm pulling 950 KB/s down and 100KB/s up. Paying $50/mo for it too.

A lot is dependent on the install. Sure, a 10kw system is going to be louder then a 1500W street beater, but thats what the different classes are for. A decent sub in a great box is going to be louder then an awesome sub in a really shoddy box. In other words, if you take the time to build it up right, tune, test, and tune some more, you can get pretty damn loud without spending gobs and gobs of cash. Car audio can be a somewhat spendy hobby though.

Whats in that thing that says "Do not open"? Didja open it?

I can answer Question 2. The terminals are bridged internally, ie. the two positives and two negatives are connected internally. So it doesn't matter if you connect them separately, or together.