buickid

E-mail support ( @ ) soundsolutionsaudio.com for good pricing on Sundown goodies.

Yes, if you properly set your gains, and you get the proper cooling options. No, if you totally FUBAR your gain settings and have a stock BTL. But either way, its your call if you feel comfortable doing it.

yea im sure... bump If you keep dissing people, why even bother to ask us for our opinions? Do you want us to tell you what you want to hear? If thats the case, then go ahead and buy the Type-R subs.

Ok, you have a D1 sub. That means you have two voice coils, at one ohm each. Take the multimeter you have, turn the dial or whatever to the resistance measuring setting. It might have the ohm symbol in place of that. Connect the test leads to the Positive and Negative side of one coil. The meter should read about 1 ohm. Test the other coil in the same fashion. If either of the coils don't show about 1 ohm, then you may have a problem with the voice coils. Also, look at the tinsel leads, are they firmly attached to the sub and the connectors?

Yeah, DVR is what you want.

There isn't going to be any voltage coming through, since nothing is providing voltage. You need to check the resistance of the terminals. If you have a D2 sub, each coil should be showing about 2 ohms resistance.

You can hear clipping when it gets to a certain level. A much more accurate way is to use an oscilloscope to look at the signals coming out of the amp. Thats the scientific way of going about it. For most people setting gains by ear will work fine, if you're smart about it. And yes, you turn your HU about 3/4 of the way up, or some other point that you remember not to go above. 3/4 is generally safe, and the HU shouldn't be clipping. Clipping anywhere in the system isn't good, whether it be the HU or amp. So basically, you turn your HU to about 3/4s, then play a test tone from a CD or iPod or something, then, starting from the lowest point, turn the gains on the amp up until you hear clipping, at which point you stop turning the gains up, and perhaps even back it off a tiny bit. Then just remember not to exceed the level that you set the gains at. Clipping should manifest itself as a change in tone.

What options did you order, and what sub? The power you give your sub is ultimately up to you and how comfortable you feel pushing it. Also, there are other factors, such as how you have your gains set. If you have your gains set to clip like crazy, you have a lot less leeway. If everything is setup good though, the BTLs are beasts.

Hmm, I'm sure there are units that allow you to burn from the HD to DVD for archival.

DVD Recorders and HD Recorders are two different things, I think. I think you mean you want a HD Recorder. TiVo is what you want, or maybe a HTPC. Thats pretty much the extent of my knowledge pertaining to that though.

I've got two desktop/towers and a laptop. The desktop: Intel Pentium @ 99.5MHz 16MB of RAM 20GB Hard Drive! (The 500MB is in a safe place) Some CD Drive I had around No audio The Tower: Athlon64 3500+ Stock @ 2.21GHz (I don't really need the OC'ing) Socket AM2 1 GB RAM (Had another 512 stick in, but it died) 1x250GB SATA300 HD (Need another 250 for RAID 1) 2x120GB SATA150 HD in RAID 1 48x24x48 CD-RW (Sony) 52x32x52 CD-RW (Sony) CD/DVD+RW/DVD-RW/DVD-RAM/Dual Layer (Sony OEM) XFX GeForce 8600GTS XXX Overclocked Edition GPU SB Audigy SE & Creative Gigaworks G500 5.1 Speakers (THX Certified! ) Hiper 580W Type-R PSU (It sounds cheesy, but its a great unit, modular wires and everything) The 48x24x48 CD-RW and case is the only part from my original build. That was a Athlon XP 3200+ with only 512MB of RAM, and a GeForce FX5500 that I overclocked, and toasted. The 120GB HDs were added later, but not part of the original build. My computers need more RAM, but they do alright.

Sundown SAE-1000D

Depends how they're wired. If they're wired in series, any coil breaking will break the circuit. If they're in parallel, then current will still flow through one of the coils.

This is probably in the wrong section, it should be in general car audio, but I'm sure someone will move it. Ok, so the Optimas are good batteries, but Kinetics (http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp) or Powermasters (http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/xs_power.html) are built for car audio and other really demanding applications. Then, you've got the alternator, you've got the battery, but do you have the cables? Research and do the "Big 3" modification, and make sure you're running big cables from the battery to the amp. Perhaps even put another battery in the trunk with the amps. Big fat cables will ensure that you can get the most out of that yellow top and 130A alt. It should reduce dimming too! -Trevor

That I don't have any idea about, but I might suggest to e-mail them again. They're pretty busy folks, and sometimes things get lost.

One guy fed 10kw to a BTL, it didnt burn out. It was only mechanically damaged when he played it under tuning and the sub tore itself apart. That goes to show, if you get everything setup good, those BTLs are going to hold up under pressure.

Groovy. 8)

Does the copper option affect (lower?) the power handling? Since the flatwind increases power handling, decreases SQ, and the copper increases SQ a bit, the copper must have some kind of trade off, which I was thinking was a loss of power handling. Just wondering, Trevor

Woah, chill man. JimJ knows what the hell hes talking about, and hes no arseho. Fi subs do have a warranty, as long as you didn't break the sub through your own actions. As long as you know what you're doing, the BTL isn't likely to crap out on you. Now if you go and take a Sundown SAZ-3000 and crank the gains to max, and the tinsel leads break while you're bumping... its not covered. But if you've got your gains set, and everything is good, and the tinsel leads happen to break, then Fi will fix them for you, with a smile. Thats more then can be said for other companies who don't care about you, once they have your money.

Hmm. So what kinda loss are we looking at? I'm gonna be running each one at ~750w, so I hope its not too serious.

Send a Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Stickers 5480 Cameron St. #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 And they'll stick a couple of stickers in the SASE and throw it in the mail.

Get a DVC, and strap two 3000D's per coil.

10kw, that is simply... nuts!

Loud music.

Dang. Hopefully you get it all sorted out.