slim2fattycake

I had the same options on my SSD 12". It handled 1200 watts perfectly fine in 2 cubic ft. I don't think that amp is going to satisfy you. Don't judge the SSD's loudness with just that amp.

Make sure this is set right or you risk screwing your subs up.

Seriously. And the fact that you want to show off but want to keep the head unit stock so that no one would think you have anything valuable in the car is kind of dumb. They will hear or see you and they will take your stuff. Don't forget about adding a car alarm in the budget too. The stock head units of older cars are not that great at all. My brother was going to replace all his speakers in his car right after I was going replace his head unit. With the new head unit in, he said that the speakers felt like they were actually alive for the first time. So now, he doesn't want to replace the speakers anymore. The head unit will make a world of a difference.

A deka or a powermaster instead of that yellowtop would be what I would change. I would also not go for 28hz tuning for rap music either, assuming this is what you listen to because of your other threads. Its a little low. But like I said, do it and see if you like it.

Dude, just buy those subs you wanted to buy. If you get them and they suit your purpose then okay keep them. If you don't like them then play them out as you save money for some better stuff that everyone is recommending. It sounds like you just want to find out for yourself so go and do what you gonna do. Sometimes, other's advises aren't for you and that you may be okay with low quality products because you don't know any better. It isn't always a bad thing. Also, It may take mistakes to learn something. I started out with two 12" DUAL brand subs from bestbuy. They were fine with me then but I wouldn't even take a second look at them now after using FI and mach5.

looks great man. I may use the unorthodox L shaped-box design like that with my friend's 91 s10 also. Thanks.

Here is a place that will help with the wiring. http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningc...=2SVC_4-ohm_4ch

What are you going to be listening to? And any pics of the car? I saw one a week ago, it really caught my eye.

We got to see pictures of the install. This box looks great. I wish I had that great of woodworking skills.

16.5" for inner diameter and 18.125" for outside diameter. edit: this is for the MJ-18M, it probably should be the same for the MJ-18.

Make sure to keep the norton protection updated with new virus definitions.

which atomic amp are you looking for? I may have a 3000.1d in my possessions soon.

What are the difference and what makes them similar? I have heard that these two amps are of the same zenon board. I am thinking about buying an atomic amp from someone for cheap but i am not sure yet because I do not know much about atomic amps. Also, this amp is going to be used on two 10" Audioque sdc2.5 subs. I am not interested in competitions but maybe 1 or 2 here or there just for fun. I am mostly wanting an amp to power the two subs with clean power for a good sound. thank you in advance for the replies.

lol. thanks for that. I am going to do the trade soon enough. and nice set-up too. digging the sig picture.

damn. are those 0 gauges? thats a hell of a lot of wires. haha.

I would definitely go with a sundown if it was a straight trade for my us amp md2d but its not, its the atomic amp and it is a great deal on my end. So I guess you guys need to keep your eyes out for an atomic amp for sale on here some time soon.

Im sure it was wrong. look at your factory fuse box, it has fuse for the alt in it. why would aftermarket alts be any different? My stock alt to batt didn't have a fuse, and my 1/0 gauge run doesn't either. Yah I'm running a HO alt in my other vehicle, and did the big 3 in it just running 4 gauge from alt to bat, with no fuse either. Never had a problem, I had the local shop do my big 3 though, and they told me I didn't need more than 4 gauge and refused to use 1/0 even though I offered to pay extra. I guess it is a little bit more work to put in the 0gauge wires because of its size, but it is always better to go bigger and have room for more than to have the bare minimum. That shop is weird. You may want to go get another source.

If the wire became defective due to the heat or whatever that could go wrong, you're battery would not be charged because the fuse is broke. So all you're electronics in the car would shut off. This is what I was thinking. I didn't even know that the wire from the stock alternator to battery + was fused.

i hear that you actually shouldn't put a fuse on the alternator to battery + terminal. I cannot remember where.

I do know that the sundown will give more output because it is rated at about 12.8 volts. The Atomic 3000.1d is rated at 14.4 volts. Its supposed to do 3200 watts at 14.4 volts, so about 2800 watts at 12.8 volts.

any other comments on this?

how much am i going to sell it for? well i guess maybe 500-600? what do you think?

Well, someone was going to trade me my us amps md2d amp for their atomic 3000.1d amp. I would just have to pay shipping. I don't know if its worth it because I will probably not use the amp. I would just try to resell it.

aren't 1/0 wires rated for 300 amps?

possibly a FI SSD 10". it also doesn't need a big size box. it just needs .6 - 1.0 cubes. and please don't do that whole pissing people off with your system thing. it makes car audio look bad.