slim2fattycake

It looks like every other welding cable. Its black with shiny copper insides. Knu's 100% copper 1/0 wire is the same size as welding cable 2/0 wires not counting outer jacket. Both are 2/0 AWG size. Knu is a little bit more expensive.

Just got my 25ft of 2/0 welding cable in the mail. There is plenty copper in this baby. And when I run my wires through the firewall, I wrap it a couple of times with vinyl electrical tape. Never had any cuts in my wires before.

both. lol. I may upgrade later on. I had someone wanted to buy my wiring so I sold it.

yeah, whats in the picture is not enough.

Ninja edit Sean. O and my wires will come in this week. I saw that the 2/0 welding cable is the same size as the knu 1/0 wire. But I am getting the welding cable for less so I'm okay with that. Its still AWG 2/0 though. Its supposed to be able to hold up to the low 400 amps of current so if I ever want to go with another ap30001D then its still plenty.

I'm going to wrap all of the MDF in plastic. I hate having to clean up MDF in the car. I'm OCD sometimes about being neat or clean. Wait, I can ask Josh or Ben since one has an SUV and the other has a trunk. Sweet.

gotcha. I just gotta find out ways to transport big sheets of MDF from lowes to my house with a trunk car.

what 10s do you have? I thought you only had that 15" AQ

I would love to have 2 BL 10" subs but money...

no, I don't mind wasting money on wood. i am just a little attached to my SSDs.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42 this should be seen by all noobs.

with two 8s you can use a 40 amp fuse if your friend didnt know.

I am using a 35 amp AGU fuse. Ben Hemp says that a single sub would be more efficient in my class than 2 subs. Josh Shacklette and Ben Hemp are the only ones I know that have been where I am now. They both say to go with a single 12" or 15" sub, especially a Type R. And I understand the placement and direction in the car are big parts of getting loud. Just by moving my box a couple of inches gets me from 139.XX to 140.9.

Was he in AS1 too? Because without the fuse limit, I hit more than a 140. New subs would come later after a new box.

Dude, you need to tell me that I have a thread going that I didn't even know about. lol. But yes, a new box is going to be built before buying new equipment. I will be enclosing the trunk with MDF. The only thing I am going to change for sure is my battery. I really want to keep the two 10" subs but I guess if I cannot get my 5dB gain from them in the AS1 class then I will upgrade my subs. I am optimistic though about my current equipment. I think a full competition box would make my score a lot higher. The box I have now is more for daily listening and it was just convenient that I was able to have a 2nd tuning in the same box easily and cheaply.

Dude, learn to type. Read over what you have typed before posting it.

lol. I am sorry to tell you that WinSD will tell you port air velocity as well. it takes 2 mins to set up.

I would go with a 10" sub instead of a 12" sub because of the small space requirement if the convertible top takes up some room of the trunk. Don't think that a 10" sub doesn't get loud.

lol. Okay, WinISD cannot tell you how your sub will respond in the car because all cars are different. It isn't wrong though on box tuning and calculations.

What happens when you have the accessories and air on full blast without the music playing? Do you still get dimming?

Yup, that is really weird that 300 watts make you dim. This is more than a big3 problem. Have you had anyone check the alternator and/or battery? And make sure those ground points are sanded really well, and that they are the metal of the chassis and not something else.

Wow, if you're going to spend 450 then talk to mechman and call Rob at DC power.

I'd take deka if your on a budget or powermaster if you got the money.

anyone know where I can get replacement screens for LCD HDTV's?

Of those 3, I'd get the md2d but there are other amps you can get for a better price.