slim2fattycake

how many other systems have you listened to that hit in the 140s? I really doubt you were hitting 145db.

well, i think they only come in single 4 ohms right now. so you want an amp that does around that at 2 ohms. and the ap1800d does rated at 1 ohm and not 2 ohms. talk to mach5 and see if they have other voice coil configurations because I haven't looked at the website for a while and its down right now. I just remember seeing somewhere that he is adding dual voice coils too I think. But you would probably have to look at kickers or something else.

the mj's are like 150 shipped I think. thats the best price performance you can get. plus with 18s you aren't going to need a lot of power to get loud so theres no need for large electrical upgrades. get about 1500-1800 watts and your set. build the box as big as you can.

hahaha.

what? If you want high efficiency amps, you may want to look else where. Also, any dampening factor over 20 is fine. There was an article somewhere on here about dampening factors. OP, search it in the technical section and read it.

its all car and user dependent. I have designed a 10" iXL sub box for a 2002 mustang and it fits perfectly fine through the trunk opening with some room. It is 1.9 cubes gross. But like I said the trunk has plenty of space, its the trunk opening.

did you try to contact bladeice in england? They are an Fi/AA distributor.

did you play music or test tone? and what fusing did you have to run?

what division and for meca, I assume? I am in meca and i have 10" ssds.

go with 2 18s then. you can do two 18" MJ-18Ms cheaper too.

Old school Class A/Bs are.

as in some amps are stable below what they are rated.

we still don't have pictures...

Depends on the amp. What amp is it?

if you have to ask then you don't know what you're doing.

sound quality is what you want it to be. There are those that can tell the difference to tweet little things to get a flatter response but most people cannot tell. To me 140dB on music sounds like shit.

it depends on the user. if you know what you're doing then your okay but not then you will have problems.

He probably wants to know which dimensions, length width or depth, to reduce to get down to those volumes but thats all up to him.

whatever deadener you add to the car will change its peak and then when you wall it, the peak may change again so you just have to test with the wall. there are a lot of little things that could make the resonance of someone else's, same car as you, car be different than your car. It may be slightly, or quite a bit. and why wouldn't you be able to mention termpro?

theres a search feature. many threads about this already.

It depends on what dimension he wants to cut down on and how much. Its not my car so I don't know.

what do you mean?

okay update. lol The girlfriend decided to blast pussycat dolls for an hour while stuck in traffic. Battery died and the alternator is only outputing 30 amps as AAA and autozone said. I was going to give her a d5100 battery but her dad bought her a new wet cell battery already so I'll see about giving the battery to her or not. But she will be getting a DC Power alternator. rated 230 amps max and 140 at real idle. I received a picture of the alternator on a test. 250 amps at 6500 alternator rpm. so probably about 2-3k rpm on engine rpm. I'm jealous.

if you used the right techniques to sound deadening, you probably won't be wasting 1k on deadening. Check out the techniques at sounddeadenershowdown.com

so your going sealed? If sealed then sure, thats fine. The SSD 10s, sealed, only need .2 to .6 cubes each. You have about 1.5 ft cubed if you go with 36w,7h,15d dimensions.