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slim2fattycake

SSA Regular
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Everything posted by slim2fattycake

  1. Just gave them a call. $480 for a 180 amp alternator seems way steep to me. Let's see, my girlfriend's 240 amp alt did 290 amp at ~2k rpm and 160 amp at idle. My alt can take 3k at idle all day with lights and AC on. DC Power's alts are worth every penny. If you buy a shitty alt and it craps out or doesn't do what you want, you going to be spending that and more for the alt you should have gotten the first time.
  2. slim2fattycake

    AHH WTF

    should have went dc power.
  3. slim2fattycake

    New alternator or what?

    do little by little first. upgrade your wiring and then see what happens. get a DMM and check your voltage. everyone in car audio needs a dmm.
  4. slim2fattycake

    New alternator or what?

    do you get a lot of voltage drop? you don't need another alternator unless your current alt is dying. I wouldn't buy that. Trust me. I have been there. They do less at idle than stock. an extra battery will be more than enough if you have voltage drops.
  5. slim2fattycake

    atomic audio.

    or Fi.
  6. you should go dc power instead.
  7. I'd rather have more negative than positive. And if you don't have voltage difference from the front battery or from the alt to the amp or battery in the trunk then I wouldn't waste money adding more wire.
  8. slim2fattycake

    06' RE Audio XXX 18s or Soundstream XXX-18s?

    That batmobile is funny.
  9. I know. I'm bored...
  10. yea but it wasn't stickied.
  11. slim2fattycake

    good amps?

    ? The answer was right there.
  12. This is a useless stickie.
  13. slim2fattycake

    Sensitive Competitor Design Information

    lol
  14. slim2fattycake

    Sensitive Competitor Design Information

    well it may be fun for ya.
  15. slim2fattycake

    Sensitive Competitor Design Information

    Damn, lol. Well, Sean, I guess you have to up it to 100 characters.
  16. slim2fattycake

    Sensitive Competitor Design Information

    so who cracked? lol. It was a collaborative work.
  17. slim2fattycake

    48x SA-10s Build

    that's beast.
  18. slim2fattycake

    Sensitive Competitor Design Information

    unless someone on IAK cracks.
  19. slim2fattycake

    Sensitive Competitor Design Information

    the file will go down if it gets out.
  20. slim2fattycake

    new theater sub build and more

    Nevermind with the IXL. That is out now. But the Avalanche is still going to be used. I may use two 12s for music as well. Depends.
  21. slim2fattycake

    Xbox Live Screen Names

    mw2 and I only win. VCintheTree
  22. slim2fattycake

    1st time on the LCD Bass Meter with a 144.5

    lol what year accord? I'd tune 38hz and above even for daily with those DD subs. If you got a 94-97 coupe then your peak may be 46-48hz. I got a 142 at the headrest with 1 dc level 4 with 3k no testing yet. But just move the box around and change directions and see if its higher.
  23. slim2fattycake

    Fi BL 15

    Well put, miller. OP, send me 15 bucks and I'll get you a design.
  24. slim2fattycake

    which 15" for Tundra

    yeah id definetly would go with a bl, i currently own a FI Q 15 1500 WRMS AND ITS LOUD BUT NOT LOUD ENOUGH. i mean my car vibrates and it makes my hair vibrate a lil, but when i put some young jeezy or something with some good high peak bass on it. You can hear the subs tapping the voice coil wires, so i turn them down. They are definetly great for SQ but if you want loud bass that will flex your carthe Q'S are not that good. but if you want loud with car flex that will make you feel the bass punch you in the chest go with the bl. just get some good front speakers and you will be good. Wow. No.
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