slim2fattycake

*throws up in mouth* Depends on your needs, goals, power, etc. I'd never use something that thin, but I know bassheads who will disagree. Different goals. They don't list the thickness...You could send them an email and ask. the port can be trimmed to change tuned frequency (nice addition, not just tuned at 45hz and there you go). Edit after further reading, I think that box is good for a low powered subwoofer, but an Icon on a 1000watts is gonna tear that apart. HUGE problem with that box. It is 1.25cuft which is enough for a SEALED Icon. No way, no how will anything sound good in it. If you have to use it, seal the port and call it sealed. Port tuning is also seriously shit in that enclosure and not made for a "real" sub. It won't get torn apart if it is truly mdf, but I still don't recommend it for anything I'd own. Why? Edit- why would bassheads use thin panels? Never heard of bassheads using thin panels for their box. Bassheads double up.

old aq 3500 is but not the newer 3500.1s

You know your AQ2200 is "china chink slap ass special" right? And I'm thinking you are talking directly to me since I am a "chink". Why don't people understand you can get quality from china? Its the companies that don't wanna pay for quality that you should point your finger at not the Chinese build houses. They do what their paid for.

2 AQ20k under $3k. 5k per sub. But I really would rethink this if you are not knowledgeable about car audio. This is a lot of power and work.

its all about the box.

lol. 15k for amps? god damn, that's a healthy budget.

how much are you wanting to spend? what are you going to have as far as electrical to back up your amps?

Audiopipe is priced very cheap. I ran Audiopipe 3k and my gf has the 1500. The AP line is very worth the money. Check this out. Its cheap as balls, has SUBSONIC FILTER and is VERY small. http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audiopipe-apsm1150-p-3996.html I would say my lanzar amp but it's only 4 ohm bridged stable.

you wanna wire in parallel.

OP doesn't know about this yet. They haven't checked back since. OP told me on SMD that this forum was no help.

He already has a 12" Q.

I wouldn't buy anything from RE that was blinged up and an X was added to the end. Original RE > new RE. Its funny that they change the ratings on some of the original subs to make the newer ones look better. Shag, I got a 12" RE RE older style here but its dual 4 ohms. If you want it, you can have it for $50.

That is because people are audio illiterate. Im dead set on getting two fi subs for my next ""SQL"" setup. If the N1 is comparable to the Q in terms of SQ, then i may just have to get a couple of 18" N1s Dont worry ill have ID XS65 on 250 watts per side with an 7-8" dedicated midbass driver. Point is im hoping he N1 will be SQ oriented like the Q.

Thats cool.

Rough quote on price maybe?

O okay. So ETA?

You should sell it or try to get money back if you can. Build it yourself or get someone to build it or at least design it for ya. And you need a Termlab or an SPL-Lab meter to get a true reading on what dB numbers you are doing. Not sure if you wanna dish out money just to meter once or twice. Probably be better to get metered by someone local that has an accurate meter. Unless you buy a meter to test and tune your own set up for daily or competition. You can even charge for others to use the meter. Here is a box I did for someone local for the same sub you have. The owner was way happier with this ported box tuned low than with his box he bought off the shelf. I can give you the plans for it, its pretty easy.

Got it, so 28mm stock parameter is a typo. And yeah, for the little price difference, you get 10mm more of linear travel so its a smart move to go ahead and get it. But if you wanted to put up good numbers on the meter, would this option be good to have or not?

Yeah, he does. His refurbished amps have warranties too you know.

Yeah I know. I was wondering if it was a typo.

Did you check the FI section? JBLcamry did some plans a while back for all FI subs.

Don't know if this was asked, but by from the website the stock xmax is 28mm so what's going to change with the hixm coils?

I know the N1 would be more SQ but what would you say to someone trying to decide between the N1 and a BL? Or even SQ with SQ, the N1 and the Q?

Yeah, I think accord idles at 1800 rpm hot. I haven't had a need for my xp recently. I gotta get a new 3k amp in and build a new setup. TheycallmeJT, 1800 rpm alt is about 600 rpm engine.

HOLY SHIT! 125amps at 1600 rpm alt! What vehicle idles that low? That thing does about 200 amps at competitior's idle lol. You wouldn't happen to have an output curve for my 270 xp would ya?