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Everything posted by slim2fattycake
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Amp & Battery Questions!
slim2fattycake replied to DarkTinman's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
just get one deka 9a31 first or a xs d3100 and then with that alt, see what your voltage drops are. If its getting in the 12s then get another battery. With my 270xp and a deka 9a31 running 3000 watts, at idle, I didn't drop be 13.5 volts full tilt. the difference between the ap and the aqx is quality and minimum ohm for stable use. the ap is minimum of 2 ohm for 3k. the aqx is stable at 1 ohm for 3500 watts but can be wired down to .5 ohm if needed to and the wont go into protect if you have enough electrical to back it up. but i'd just run 1 ohm daily. price difference between the two is a lot but the ap30001d isn't a bad amp either. -
Plus, dry time is inconsistent. It changes with temperature.
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I'ma say no. Screw the baffles together. Its a longer wait than 30-45 mins. You don't remember that shitty box we put together. lol. I only use heavy items when i won't be doing anymore work and just leave the stuff laying overnight. Just glue, clamp, and screw the first baffle to the box and then line up the next baffle and glue, clamp, and screw to the first baffle. Be done in 15 mins tops. I'm going to disagree with your disagreement, lol. Titebond only takes 30min of pressure before u can release it and let it fully cure. I built the wall that way. Triple baffled, not a single screw on that thing. Just clamps on the outsides and weight in the middle (motors) The next day, that baby was solid as a rock. I have never screwed a baffle down.. You do it so you can work with the pieces while they cure. I am not in a hurry when i build it, therefore let them cure overtime. You just lost your argument. lol. Those pieces I could push apart after 30 mins on that box we pieced together.
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you just have to go through one panel, but you shouldn't have a problem from the baffles separating if you glued it right.
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I'ma say no. Screw the baffles together. Its a longer wait than 30-45 mins. You don't remember that shitty box we put together. lol. I only use heavy items when i won't be doing anymore work and just leave the stuff laying overnight. Just glue, clamp, and screw the first baffle to the box and then line up the next baffle and glue, clamp, and screw to the first baffle. Be done in 15 mins tops.
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That or python RCAs. The jackets are really thick so it helps from getting nicked out cut in the contours and corners of the car. Cheaply priced as well. Don't waste your money on expensive RCA. Its a marketing tool.
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you post about pming him? lol.
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you can have bass boost on, its not a direct answer to why your subs blew.
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I say do some window bracing instead of those dowels. You got top and bottom panels too. With the low ass tuning and the CD you made them, its going to be flexing like nuts and I don't think those dowels are going to be good enough. OR more dowels lol. OK ALL SMART @$$3$ I get it lol. It is 36" in depth on bottom of top of wheel well and then it goes to 28 on top. Thats why its the DESIGN and not the BUILD! A little tweaking it will work! So now Shizzzon has to redesign it? Shoulda gotten measurements right the first time. But definitely lucky that you didn't build it yet.
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he doesn't own the company. its pronounced to rhyme with pie. there was a thread on this a long time ago.
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so you got it metered yet? number up or stfu.
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sandstorm and blade club opener song
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2x18" AA SMD vs 4pcs 15" fi BTL ufo
slim2fattycake replied to superfishbone's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
hope you don't put them in a sealed enclosure. -
I guess being a good mod makes him a troll. Are you mad that you're the only one hanging from kevin's scamming nuts? I guess scamming car audio people isn't enough, he's going to scam the shipping company as well. Adrian_D, nice ninja edit. Wait, you're a mod, you can always ninja edit. lol. Rather rude. Phi - He must not be the only one, but instead one of 3,000 unique customers I've dealt with this year alone in the last two months. Let it rest - I am helping this guy out, this is not a public bashing topic You continue to lie and try to make the OP hide his bad transaction with you like you have in the past. I guess you can have 3 million positive transactions when you make the bad ones hidden or change your company name to erase your past. Are you mad that you're the only one hanging from kevin's scamming nuts? I guess scamming car audio people isn't enough, he's going to scam the shipping company as well. I am just laughing at this to be honest.....because everyone around the forums I go to has had great deals with kevin. I am just the only one dumb enough to still try and go on these forums where you morons hang out. Only a handful of people on this site who have been helpful to me anyways. I just hate seeing someones name getting drug through the mud because of an ebay deal..... enjoy all your d riding jokes though because at the end of the day my car shits on yours AND I got great customer service throughout the whole process. You think his bad name is only on this forum? Try to ask about him on Ca or CACO and see what you get. And I give no shits about your vehicle. I do my own work and not have to rely on others to build my system for me.
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I guess being a good mod makes him a troll. Are you mad that you're the only one hanging from kevin's scamming nuts? I guess scamming car audio people isn't enough, he's going to scam the shipping company as well. Adrian_D, nice ninja edit. Wait, you're a mod, you can always ninja edit. lol.
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Get the amp in, install and then see your voltage drop. I ran my 270xp with 3k at idle and it never dropped under 13.5 volts. I had a deka group 34 under the hood and a deka group 31 in the trunk. Don't by overkill when you don't even know if you need it. Darktinman, the two power inputs, just run two power wires from your rear battery positive and fuse both wires. They are just two separate runs to the amp to divide the amp draw through each wire. And you will want to turn on the first click of your lights to make the car keep the voltage up. When you get the alternator in, its not going to be the alternators fault that you don't sit above 14volts all the time. The ECU on the 94-97 accord, that I know of, controls voltage and it will be done as low as 12.5 volts but only when there isn't a lot of load that works the alternator. If you want to get cheaper priced batteries, get deka 9a31 or ngb extreme group 31 batteries. But do as I said first, you don't want to buy 4 batteries and have it sit there and not need it. Plus, that's a hell of a lot of weight combined with your wall. I have played with the level 4 with level 5 coils before too.
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2k post? Mark is owner of SSA.
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Imagine that, another lie. Obviously this guy has a disease. I feel sorry for anyone who has ever bought anything from him. Apparent his nut sweat is tasty because some still hang from them. I really cannot believe he became a vendor.
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SSA iCON 15 and AP1500.1
slim2fattycake replied to 713basshead420's topic in Sound Solutions Audio (SSA®)
if that's all the room you have. look at the 12" version icon or go sealed with the 15". -
scammed peopled on other forums and had to change his company name. And now is in conflict in our own forum. I would rather burn my money than give to a scammer.
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I'd stay away from skar.
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Hell, i would have been happy but SOMEONE had disc skip problems from the 90s so I couldn't hear it on a loud car setup. lol.
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weak sauce lol. play smooth criminal off sean's cd.
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Get off his nuts. He's been in the mud in the past already and was exposed. Hell, he had to change his company name to hide from the shitstorm before. This a representation of our forum since he is a vendor. Let's just hope we aren't tarnished because of him.