slim2fattycake

Still doesn't sit right with me because of how his arm needed to be twisted for him to do the right thing. Thieves won't steal in front of the police. They wait for another opportunity.

Scammers are good at what they do, scamming.

Was anyone really surprised? Can we boycott this scammer off the SSA community?

What about the mounting and tighten brackets? Any change to those?

That sucks and knowing he is a business guy. So if he would refund your money he can just get it IF they refund it from ups. Yeah well, I asked him something along the lines of refunding me the $400 and he said something like "Sure. As soon as UPS sends me the money". May not be the exact words but it's damn near exact. Of all my years of purchasing things online, whether CA related or not, this is the first time there was a problem and I've had to wait on the seller to hear from shipping company before resolving that problem. Most times, like mentioned before, the seller eats the cost or has sent me a different item while I sent the "broken" one back. One things for sure, business men could learn a few things from guys like Jacob & Rusty. Wow, so if he doesn't get the claim from UPS, you won't get shit back? Grade A business there. Can you still file claim on paypal? Also, BBB his ass.

A good seller would have already refunded the money and dealt with claims themselves. But that's not the case here. UPS should only take 2 weeks to make a decision. A store manager told me this.

look at the xs power d5100. pretty small battery there.

just get a group 31 agm battery back there in the trunk too. upgrading the big three doesn't mean the stock electricals can handle more current. also you may have the gain up too high. you have to compromise. either turn it down or upgrade.

it'll be fine.

4 dd9512s for the same price as the xcon? did you rob someone? lol. I saw someone selling a blown dd9512g for 300 plus shipping. IF I was looking at anything from DD, I'd still go with audioque when its time to buy.

DD for sound quality, I would not. Icon or Q from your list. Or get another w6. If sealed, go ported and tune to where you need more output at.

We don't like your kind around here.

For real, i had 2k and 2 10s in the trunk doing the same score. hehe. but if things go the way I want for the summer, I'm walling my coupe.

you hit that 165dB yet?

Quoted from Shizzzon. "We currently have 1 LCD meter that we are considering to be B stock for the following reason- The battery compartment is malfunctioned and is not getting a good connection inside which severily throws off the pressure reading... However, when using the supplied 12v adapter that comes with the meter, the lcd meter reads perfectly fine. So, the user will not be able to use batteries with this meter. This is the only problem. Normal cost of a new LCD meter is - $449 shipped. We are selling this 1 B-stock LCD meter for $419 shipped. $30 off normal pricing." This measure has a new firmware for selectable time in averaging mode from 10sec to 4min in 10second intervals.

lol.

No one knows. 4" coiled BLs.

i forgot about the wall. you may have to run the wire under the car cus you already got the wall up. unless you still have room on the sides under the wall you can run the wire from the front to the back of the trunk. I ran the wire from the battery on the passenger side of the car to the back. just following the side trim all the way back. There is a hole, i think it was already empty or something, and I just ran my wire from the inside through to the engine bay. you can't see the hole from the engine bay. you can make another hole or make it bigger if you plan to run more wire.

lol

happy birthday old man

welding cable is flexible but it doesn't just fall like wet noodles, and you can run 2/0 welding cable through the firewall. I have it like that. and I have room to run under the carpet so you have room too.

shave down or reducer.

i have the stock alt in right now. highest charging voltage is 13.8volt, usually sits around 12.8volt. i have heard horror stories with kinetik and have had a kinetik go bad on me so i stay with what has been good to me, deka and xs. i had the ap30001d between the wheel wells so you should be fine with either amp between there. I just didn't have it right up against the back seat though. You should look up the length of the amp and measure the space you want to put it. i run 2/0 welding cable. I don't see a voltage drop from the front to back so i assume running the way I have it is good enough.

your accord stays under 13volts at all times? weird. when the alt gets kicked on, it charges at 13.3-13.8v. you don't want to go to 18 volts, its a more money and maintenance than what you would want. for less batteries, get xs d3100s, for the cheaper priced route, get deka 9a31s or ngt extreme group 31 batteries. You got a wide open trunk so you can mount either amp anywhere. I think the ap30001d is actually longer than the aqx but I could be wrong. the aqx is definitely wider. You can run straight off the alt if you want too. I have my power wire from alt to front battery, then front battery to back battery. use 100% copper wires. double up on grounds anywhere you going to use a ground.

You act like I've never done a screwless build. My old home theater box was screwless. It took way longer than needed to build it. My new home theater box used SOME screws and I finished it way faster, not counting the days I didn't do any work lol. But without screws, I wouldn't handle a box under 6 hours minimum depending on the temperature. And I agree, clamping and glue is a must with or without screws.