slim2fattycake

i'd rather his time be spent on working on the actual sub then pics. im ok about it. something good can always be waited for.

+1 I was about to order a pair of 15 BTL's and then I couldn't even see them on the site. No now I must wait another month, I had finally convinced the bank (aka wife) that I needed new subs. if those new boob cones look like those, i would buy 4

Hm? i read that the ssd's are really versatile so they have both sq and spl uses

dont underestimate the Q on spl even tho it is a sq oriented sub but yea going from dual to Q is going make you question everything else you own lol.

yea i agree with m5. rap and SQ doesnt really go together. do you think that your duals sound good? i had duals as a first set-up as well. when i got my ssd, it sounds so much better and louder. and i would think the Qs would be louder and have better SQ than the SSD's as well normally big three is done with 4gauge but i think once you get near 2000 rms, 0 gauge should be used. im about to give my set-up another run of 4gauge.

see sig

ok this is copied from my sig... its my set-up: 96 Honda Accord ex coupe 2 Infinity Reference 6022si 6.5" front doors 2 kicker SSMB6 6.5" X 9" rear deck 1 FI SSD 12" dual 2 ohm flatwind coil & bp power 1 Hifonics BXi1606D class D amp 1 Dual XIA3145 Class AB 2-Channel amp 1 farah Stinger capacitor 1 run Kicker Hyperflex 4 gauge BIG 3 upgrade stock alternator is about 80 or 90 amps,n i still got a h/o but dont have it in b/c i gotta find out what it does at idle... im about to do another run of 4awg under the hood, but i was wondering if it is better or worst with the cap with my current set-up and then with the h/o alternator, which is 130amps but i think it has to be at 1200rpm before it hits that.

yea, i mean they dont just make this to make it. i mean really they could just make the inside a copper wire and thats it if all a cap is, is a paperweight. but what do you have the cap for then?

whats everyone think about this? i mean with this its one positive thing about keeping the cap, until i get my engine swap and get a h/o alternator but that wont be until like 2 years or something.

like everyone says something different and they dont want to fix it. they just want to give me advice on how to find the leak. i mean omg no body shop wants to do it.

well see i dont think my electricals are bad. i checked it and with the system up at my max playing level on even bass mekaniks, the voltage is still above 13.5, it really doesnt go down lower than that except when heat and defrost is on, it then drops down to 12. this is with and without the cap. also, i am not sure with the musical difference between the two.

i guess ill keep it in till i can get someone to buy it.

i dont think anyone would buy it lol... im stuck.

x2

well i already have the cap. its just that i am wondering if the cap will do anything for my set-up or not.

dynomat is not that great especially for the price. second skin is the best. i think raam mats are the closest to second skin, performance and price. edead stuff is good to, their new stuff. id go with raam if you dont wanna pay a lot. i have used edead and raam.

ahhh, i gotta rid of my ssd and get the new BTL. wished i had two cars for this

colon flush? lol. sorry i really hope u feel better... so you can meter my system lol, no. and so yea, i didnt go to the meca thing either. my car started leakin water in again. i had to remove everything so no go. n all the shops i've been to already just tells me "advices" on how to find the leak, i know where its comin from on the inside but not how its coming in from the outside. i mean doesnt anyone of them want to make money? but yea, get better man. ooo and im about to set-up my brother's BL and usamps md2d. you should check it out when its done.

damn that sucks man.

hey cman r you goin to meca comp this weekend in e-town?

especially when it makes ppl think you got 2 15" or somethin.

thank you for that. i have always wanted to ask but was afraid to get e-raped lol.