CraigC

Nice job. Sounds like a solid performer. Is there a thread on here that intros the driver with parameters, power handling, etc, or has that not yet been published. I searched back several pages, but didn't spot anything.

Why couldn't I use both channels, 4ohm stereo, with a D4 sub?

Thanks guys. I may just use it as is, if my amp would provide enough power. Would 400 rated watts @ 4ohm stereo from my soundstream VGA 800.2 be enough in a smallish ported box (1.5 - 2.0)? Be cool if it would, amp definitely wouldn't be strained.

Would it be possible to change a dual 4ohm RL-P12 to dual 2 ohm? If so, how much would it cost?

The new Mag sounds very interesting. I may have overlooked this here or in the other thread, but what voice coil configurations are going to be offered?

Thanks JimJ, I do have a spare 2 channel amp that could be added, so 3-way is doable. Would 3-way make a big difference in x-cab truck, or would a good 2 way set up be sufficient? I'm also going with a single ICON 12 sealed for substage, and I do like a strong midbass punch.

I'm wanting to go active with front stage. I've been shopping around Seas, Peerless, Aura, etc, and was wondering if anyonce has used the mli-65 midbasses-midrange in a IB door install. If so, looking for opinions on their performance compared to the other offerings mentioned above. Note: tweeters have been decided on either.

Try to think of it this way, and use your link to "the12volt" for reference, but go to the "woofer calculators" page. Each of your drivers will have 2, 1ohm voice coils, hence the "1ohm DVC (Dual Voice Coil) rating". That's 4 total connection points on each sub. A series connection will increase (numerically) the rating, and a parallel will decrease it. So, first think of each sub separately. If you make a series connection on each sub (positive from one voice coil to the negative of the other coil with a short jumper wire), then each sub will, in effect, become a 2ohm driver and you will be left with 1 open positive connection point and 1 open negative connection point on each sub. Then you would make a parallel connection between the 2 subs, connecting the open positive terminals from each sub together and the open negative terminals from each sub together. This will bring you back to a single 1ohm connection, which would connect to your amps respective positive and negative outputs. Again, go check out the diagram at the12volt after reading this so you can see the connections being made and have a visual idea of how it should go. Hope this helps you out, it can be a little confusing at first.

Thanks, I'll take a look at that.

I thought the OEM desription mentioned "x" number of speakers, "x" wattage, and a sub. Appearently I misunderstood, or could the dealer have not known what the hell he was talking about, nah, lol. What are you guys putting in the Camry, or is it "top secret"? 6 x 9's in the front doors , 3's in the dash , and I believe they are 6 x 9's in the rear deck as well . Haven't found a sub yet . It could be there somewhere and we just haven't found it yet . But considering he is riding around with just a drivers seat for an interior currently. I don't see how we could have missed it lol What's going in ? Bunch of stuff Not quite sure on everything yet Sounds like the factory sub myth is a bust. Post up later what you do with the install, I'd be interested to follow. Wife's car may need some massaging after all. I'll just keep with the simple sub addition for now.

I thought the OEM desription mentioned "x" number of speakers, "x" wattage, and a sub. Appearently I misunderstood, or could the dealer have not known what the hell he was talking about, nah, lol. What are you guys putting in the Camry, or is it "top secret"?

Thanks Ramos, I may check to see if there's a connection option there. I'm going to leave the factory set up in there. We opted for JBL system upgrade on the car, which is not too bad for a factory set up (probably the best sounding stock system I've heard). Plenty for the wife, she would just like a little more "kick" if you know what I mean. I have an Alpine S series 10" and an old punch DSM 100 collecting dust that I want to put in the trunk, I just need to find a safe place to connect the remote turn on. BTW do you know if the factory sub is located in the console? I'd like to pull my high level inputs from there if I could.

Has anyone done an install on the new style '07 Camry? I assisted a friend in adding a sub in the trunk of his wife's car and we connected the amp turn on to the interior fuse panel. This car has some very tiny fuse terminals. The car started having some electical issues (ie: gauge cluster malfuntioning). The dealer service dept stated that the connection we made damaged the fuse panel and had to replace it. We've both done it this way many times on other vehicles and we didn't force any connection or break anything. I don't know! Anyway, I would like to install a supplementa sub in my wife's Camry, but would like to avoid the same situation. Does anyone know where there is a safe place to make this connection in the vehicle?

Nice Vids. In the vid for Philips 2nd run, is the windshield flexing from a single BL 10"? If so, what kind of power is pushing it and enclosure size?

Ok guys, after many hours scanning this forum, I've narrowed my decision to either the ICON 12" or Q 12". However, given my chosen spot for relocating my amps under the passenger side rear seat of my silverado ext cab (for easy tuning access and ample convection room), I will not have enough room to go ported. which of these drivers would better like a sealed enclosure?