95Honda

Finally getting around to designing a H/T for our new house. Substage will be a McCauley 6174 in a 12ft3 4th order vented at around 18Hz powered by an Adcom GFA 555. I picked a clean Sony ES on Facebook Marketplace for almost nothing. Front L/R and rears are Paradigm in walls, their reference series, should be pretty good. For the center channel I designed a large line array with 2 sets of 5 drivers in Bessel arrangements flaking a Peerless 1 1/8” dome. Hopefully I’ll have some build pics in the next few weeks. I am really looking forward to the sub stage. I have used the 6174 in many pro audio builds before, but not in a small H/T.

More pictures of everything done. The center channel sits right below the TV.

They are a pro audio company that has been around for decades. The 6174 was one of the first true pro audio subwoofers. Once the Aura Sound NRT came on the scene, it sort of dethroned the 6174, but more in sheer output. I don't know of too many other drivers available to this day that are as efficiency as a 6174 on the last octave, if enclosure size isn't a concern.

The Adcom sub amplifier

Subwoofer almost done. It ended up being pretty big. Internal volume is 13 ft3 tuned at 18Hz.

Center Channel coming along

After a few years of collaborative effort, passive crossovers are here for the Evil component system. Thank you Aaron, Julian, Vladd, Parker and Sean. This was definitely a team effort. When Aaron approached me with this idea a few years ago I was excited to design a set of passive crossovers that were based on performance first and not price or size. These really do sound great, I am proud of the design and the rest of the team knocked out a great PC board and enclosure. I don't think you can find anything better at this price point. Also, as SSA is a staunch supporter of DIY, standby for more resources to build these yourselves... SSA Evil Passive Crossovers - SSA STORE (soundsolutionsaudio.com) The SAA (soundsolutionsaudio.com)

It was worth it!

Goals?

They will have flatest response on axis if they are a traditional dome. Normally, the closer they are to the driver handling the next band (e.g., midbass) the better they will integrate. I would try aiming them on axis at the intended listening first.

Honestly, it is a crap shoot that way. One of the best ways to set the SSF is to use a signal source that will produce a sine wave. You can use an app or find an online source, Youtube has them too. Find out what your enclosure tuning frequency is (this is the point where cone excursion is lowest and port output is highest). Then play around 5Hz lower or however much it takes to get the woofer to unload and start moving like crazy. Now, with your SSF filter starting at the lowest frequency, turn it up until the woofer starts moving about half as much. BAM! Your SSF is set. If you do it by "looking at the knob numbers" and guessing your actual tuning frequency, you have no idea if it is working as intended...

We’re you guys able to get the original Adire design pdf documents for designs like HE 10.1 and Hurricanes?

As mentioned, cabin gain can play a huge role at your listening position. Can you get a hold of any type of measurement mic so you can measure near field at the enclosure and then at the listening position and see what the difference is?

We’re you guys able to get the original Adire design pdf documents for designs like HE 10.1 and Hurricanes?

Spammer lol ^^^^^ on the flip side, just had a Bimini made and SeaDek put in, gonna be a good summer...

I went ahead and designed some retrofits for a pair of Bazooka wakeboard tower speakers. The crossover took some time but came out decent in the end...

I think for sub I’m going to do a 12” in a standard 4th order vented alignment. I am thinking of pretty stout driver, either one of the zCONs or a PSI platform 4 or 5... I figure I could have around 3ft3 to play with... I still haven’t even turned on the stereo it came with yet... The components look like decent JL drivers...

Yes it is. Just need to figure out what I’m going to put it in. Both cans I designed sounded really good, but I might go back to a higher end 8”. I’ll look and see what is available in March. I also need to look at the boats electrical, there are dual alts and 4 batteries, but the alts are roughly 90 amp i think. JS makes high output marine alts, I might look into those. You are normally at 4K RPM or higher for charging so not really sure about a lot of the car audio alts. I have some homework to do.

350 Mags. 01’ with 240 hrs on it. Not a scratch on the hull, trailer queen...

I bought a 28’ Donzi a few months ago. I’m going to put a tower on it for a decent set of cans I’ll design. I think a 15” or 18” sub in the mid cabin too...

I designed a bigger set using B&C 10 neo coaxs. It was a lot of work to get the crossover right with a low parts count but man, they actually sound really good. The went onto an MB B-52

I'm building a set of passive crossovers to do justice for the SSA Evil midwoofers and silk dome tweeters. This is a no compromise design that uses 48 (!) parts per set. They will be potted in epoxy resin inside ABS enclosures and hard wired with direct connection to the drivers. I have been working with these drivers for a while now and really like them. Install will be in a 1978 F-150 a good friend and I built. The rest of the system will be a SSA 150.4 and a 10" custom built PSI sub.

Lol!

That's my problem, zero time bro!

It's been a fun project for sure. You would have really liked the design phase. I spent literally a 100 hours voicing these and measuring a little over a year ago.. A pair was on a test baffle for about a month. Listening, measuring and tweaking...