95Honda

Yes, the Adcom gear (all the used older stuff at least) is full size... That Dayton would really be perfect for you...

The thing about the Adcoms are that they sound real good (discrete components) and are cheap 2nd hand. I have a few amps and and a pre-amp still kicking around in the basement. When I built my in-laws whole house system (in 2006), I picked up (3) 10 year old 100wpc Adcoms for $200 each at Hawthorne Stereo in Seattle, WA and they are still doing great... So really, it is just what is around when you are ready to pull the trigger... Either choice will be great... My brother is also using a set of those Dayton amps for his wife's hair salon, they run 8 hours a day, 5 days a week without any issues... He is running 4 ohms also...

I have used 4 of those Dayton amps. They work great and sound pretty good too.

That will help out a lot, making sure you get this nailed down is imperative...

I am one of the most "Elder" here, please stop derailing this thread. We understand your point of view. We are here to learn, not make a point. Please help the OP if you can.

Great! Gald to hear you got it straightened out!

No, I quoted A1 Sauce, I don't know what happened...

"As I've been scanning through this forum I've noticed a lot of people saying no such thing as under powering so basically what im understanding is I can run my 1000 watt RMS rated sub on 100 watts and it will be just as loud with the same output as if I run it at its max rating" No, not at all... You just won't hurt it with 100 watts and it will work fine. It will obviously be louder with 1000 watts. The power needed to drive the woofer to it's linear limits is dependent on the enclosure.

#1. List the exact volume your enclosure has (do all the math for how much your vent displaces, etc...). If you are unsure about the tuning (as in you never verified it) list the vent area (internal Height x Width) and total vent length. Do not use any metric numbers. #2. List the T/S parameters of the subwoofers you have. (There have been a variation of Alpine Type-Rs over the years, you need to know the exact model number) #3. List the T/S parameters of the subwoofers you would like to compare. This will help whomever is willing to model for you...

That is the reason to do Isobarik, 1/2 the box size for the same F3 and lower distortion in some ways... So this is the only subwoofer system you personally have had in this car?

It seams confusing because it isn't a simple question... If you can take anything from these threads it is that you need to model to see what will be louder with your current setup, period. You will either have to figure out how to do that or get someone to do it for you. Until that happens, you really won't be able to get a better answer. Part of DIY is having to work these problems out. This is where you save money. If you can't get the help you need or have the time to learn new skills you will have to pay for a brick-and-motor shop to do it for you. I wish there was an easier way to do it, but there isn't. So honestly, until you you get this ^^ done, you aren't going to make any progress...

I have no idea, normally FI Qs sound and perform great, the 10 or so I have used do... I have no idea if it is the install or a defect of the woofer... Is the orientation of the FI Q box the same as your others? If you are talking compound Isobaric, they have the output of 1 woofer, as Vas is decreased 50% (Hoffman's Iron law comes into play here), but that really doesn't really do anything for your problem, just wanted to point that out...

No it isn't a debate. You are subjective with your conclusions, I conducted objective testing with controlled variables to complete my conclusion. I come from an Electrical Engineering background and have worked Operation Testing for the last decade, I base my opinions on fact. Regardless, I am not going to try and convince you or anyone else to change your mind.

So clipping and distortion does not damage a woofer,sub,ect ? Not in the slightest. Again, I did an objective test of this thermally destroying 40 drivers 10 years ago on CarStereos.org. If you listen to FM radio, you listen to bass with heavy compression and clipping, day in and day out... If you listen to modern compressed music you listen to clipping. Etc, Etc, Etc...

Here is the quick down and dirty... The thermal rating is the amount of power the voice coil can handle before thermal failure. If a subwoofer is rated for X wattage thermally, it can handle that power continuously if it is rated correctly. What people fail to realize is that amplifier power is rated as a sine wave, but amplifiers can produce significantly more power with different waveforms. I.e, an amplifier rated for X sine wave wattage can really produce 2X wattage under certain other signal conditions, if the power supply can keep up. But again, regardless of the waveform, if you do not exceed the thermal threshold of the voicecoil, you are fine. I did an objective test of this 10 years ago CarStereos.org, I don't know if it is archived or not...

I know, makes no difference, power is power. Unless you exceed the thermal threshold, it doesn't matter.

No. Please do not spread this miss-information on this website. If you need clarification why, I can do that.

Just remember the Thermal rating has absolutely nothing to do with power requirements, at all!

That might be perfect for the subs you already have, I have no idea without modeling. It is a very suitable size and tuning for many subwoofers... Since the box is already built, that parameter is chosen. So now is where modeling all your other choices (and the Type Rs you already have) will tell you the differences you can expect...

Modeling is computer simulation that provides you with a predicted response. Maybe someone on hear will run the numbers for you and give you response plots to compare. If not, try and Google loudspeaker modeling programs and Thiele Small parameters. This will help you get started. Amps don't pull watts. You can maximize your power output by keeping your subwoofer impedance as close to 2 ohms as possible, but it isn't nearly as important as having an efficiently designed enclosure...

The opinions will be subjective and won't do you any good. Modeling will give you an objective prediction on which will be louder... The problem is, when someone gives a review without measurements it is useless. It is also useless when an A/B test is done without controlled variables... Just want to try and get you off on the right foot...

The RMS rating has nothing to due with output, at. If you want to know what option will be louder you need to model to get a baseline... All that baseline will do will show you the potential difference in output between the drivers. You won't know what the overall output will be unless you know what you cabin gain is, exactly...

Merry Christmas!

We were just trying to help you. You still don't understand what happened to your gear and we were (are) trying to lead you down the proper path. Threatening people on the internet is pointless. You have some growing up to do. We'll still help if you want it, otherwise I wouldn't post this kind of nonsense.

Again, it has nothing to do with "chasing numbers" it is about optimizing what you have. If you get OE style softparts you will know what the T/S parameters are and you can design a proper enclosure. If you get a stiffer suspension set up than intended because you want greater mechanical power handling, you are going to raise the Fs and lower the Vas, both decreasing low end extension and efficiency.