95Honda

All of the answers you get will be subjective unless A/B tests were done under controlled conditions... Model your driver choices in the enlosure you already have and compare the response curves...

What was wrong with your 2-way?

I have built a few sets in the past, I'll try and dig up some pictures... Problem is efficiency. I rebuilt several Carver Amazing Loudspeaker systems in the mid 90's while working at Audioprism. Read up on them and you will get an idea about how they work and thier highlights and shortcomings...

To give you an idea of what I am talking about, attached is an impedance plot. If you notice, there is only one point where it drops to the Re of the driver, everywhere else it is higher. Also, it isn't "Box rise" , that is a made-up term because impedance both rises and falls...

Additionally, you enclosure is going to be what dictates your impedance. The Re of the coil will relate to little of your overall impedance. Without knowing what the enclosure impedance is, you will have no idea how much power the amplifier is producing. You can attempt to measure the output power of the amplifier with an RMS voltmeter and inductive current probe (clamp) but you would have to do it over a wide range of frequencies to be meaningful and count on the test equipment being accurate...

Life just keeps me too damn busy! I am pretty excited to hear some good IB bottom end. Honestly, I just need to find a weekend to fire up the tablesaw and cut some MDF, I have everything I need right now, just a matter of putting it together...

My versions are the original ones, a little different but same power: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa1000-subwoofer-amplifier-rack-mountable--300-811

I have no idea, but like I said, if it were me, I would isolate the variables starting with seeing what the voltage is at the DC input of your component amp...

I wish it could go faster, I have just been so busy. I changed the amps to a pair of Dayton 1000 watt rack mount sub amps... I forgot I had an extra pair still NIB, so that will be their home...

Also, your component amp may be going into protect for other reasons such as heat, impedance, DC offset, etc... This is why you need to check to be sure it is/is not getting sufficient DC voltage...

I would check and see what the DC voltage is at the INPUT of the component amp while your sub amp is going full tilt. If it is really low, check at the battery and make sure you do not have excess loss in the DC power system somewhere before it gets to your component amp... If the voltage is plain dropping really low everywhere then I would try and find out why...

Also, when you say "Loose my components" is the amp actually shutting off?

Honestly, I am surprised a 270 amp alt and stout battery cannot keep up with a pair of any 1200 watt amplifiers, especially since you upgraded the wiring... I would seriously check to see if everything is OK with your current charging/wiring system before adding another battery... Almost sounds like the alternator isn't doing what it is spec'd out to do...

The baffle will be all MDF, It will be pretty substantial and secured to the floor joists solid...

I finally finished my framing, here is the area where the baffle is going to be built. The woofers will face down and be about 2" above the drywall. I will make a large grill frame and cover it with white grill cloth. The amplifiers will be upstairs and the subwoofers will fire through a heat register...

Honestly, tuning anywhere between 28-35Hz for normal music will work out pretty good... But you can't go wrong with 30Hz like you are planning... I would also model to see what the response looks like. You may get a flatter response with the lower tuning...

A little lower won't hurt, most "daily" boxes I build are around 30Hz. That is a pretty common point to tune when you factor in cabin gain and a proper sub sonic filter setting...

Honestly for $150? Parts Express reference mids and tweeters run active, as a passive network would blow the budget out of the water... My goal would be to simply sound good...

I hear you, a lot of guys use them because they don't really understand how air behaves at resonance. But like I said, simple Google search will give you area and angles.

Cancellation? Please do some research on how how drivers (fed the same signal or no signal) behave above resonance in a common enclosure...

It is T/S parameters. You can place ANY two drivers in the same enclosure. Above resonance, they work in tandem, period. As long as they have similar specifications and linear excursion, they will be fine.

They are simply used for cosmetic reasons, there is no performance increase whatsoever. In fact, they may decrease vent efficiency due to non-linear airflow behavior. If you must use one, just Google geometric area and angle formulas.

The RMS ratings have nothing, I mean nothing, to do with anything in this thread. At all. Period. Seriously. Don't mention it again... That is a good deal for a W7 if all works out like it should. They are very well engineered drivers and are very good performing. If there is any shady parts, I would walk away. There is nothing wrong with buying a used a sub, you just have to be sure you know what you are looking at. BTW, the RMS ratings have nothing to do with anything.

I have done both, but more than often I use metal spacers/standoffs...

8s are really tough to use for 2-ways in a door. You just can't get them on-axis enough to not have a huge hole with almost any tweeter... Rarely do you even see 8s in home audio 2-ways. I have done a few, but, they were with tweeters that could get down to almost 1.5K and were perfectly on-axis...