95Honda

No oscope in the world will keep you from frying coils, this is a HUGE missconception. Just be carefull, you fried the coil for only one reason, too much power, this is 100% user error. Don't make the mistake of doing this again. The benefit of have 2 subs though will be dividing the power up between two motors (you are using the same power, right?), so you may have a little more forgiveness in the thermal power handling department. Clipping doesn't hurt subs, gain settings don't hurt subs, O-scopes don't save subs, only your right hand does these things... Or your remote....

Supraflex Welding cable. Replace as much as you can, this would include the alt to batt, the batt to ground, the block to ground, etc... Try to go at least 2awg to run to the amp, if it is in the back of the car. Going with 1awg, 0 or larger will be great. Put the connectors on the wire good, if you can't find a crimper that will put the right ends on the cable, solder them. If you buy "car audio" soldering the ends may ruin about the last 6" so of wire, so buy welding cable to be safe...

Check out the Dayton references from Parts Express, I have used many of the 4ohm ones for car audio. They are pretty much the best bang for the buck you can get anywhere right now. The measure and sound really good, and if you are going active, that takes alot of the headache of designing a passive away. It isn't that designing a passive is real hard (not saying it is easy), but I think for a 3-way, an active would be nice. I would just try and have the mid and tweeter as close to each other as possible and as on-axis with you at your listening position as posible, if they are going to be way off axis, make sure and look at the off-axis Fr plots if you can, this may change your driver choice, some drivers behave completely different than others off-axis. I wouldn't worry about impedance of the idividual drivers too much, especially since you will have 6 channels of power and easily adjustable level control, just don't get hung up on this here I guess is what I am saying. Just find the drivers that look the best for your application and go with it...

Download a copy of WINISD or Boxplot 2.0 (both free) and crunch the numbers. If you were able to sign up and register on this site, you should be able to pull some port dimensions out of either of those two programs.

When you post things like this- Pretty much all forward progress will stop as far as experienced people helping you out. Here is what you need to do- 1) Stop posting these type of threads. 2) Buy the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance Dickason, and read the 1st 4 chapters 3) Start posting again

There really is no technical difference. Some of the differences that are pushed by manufacturers are: Excursion linearity (how linear the driver behaves the futher it moves from static position) Frequency response (how flat it is) Driver Q (how it will behave, or more likely "not behave" in a chosen alignement) Power handling/Power compression Efficiency These are some of the main parameters that will be pointed out by manufacturers to push thier driver as more of something designed for "sound quality" and one designed for "SPL". There are tons more parameters to look at, these are just a few, but hopefully this will help you understand that there are a lot of variables when determaining a particular drivers purpose. This wasn't a retarded question, BTW. I would be willing to bet that most people don't understand this.

How are you getting 2 ohms when you have them wired in series?

My favorite bike was always my 1995 CBR900RR...

Yeah, It looked like an MT. I saw your truck and I also saw what looked like a pair of Q 12s in the back of a silver car. I drug a pair of XXX18s here form the states, but they are in my home stereo. Wife's car has one of Dan Wiggins' original Koda 10s in it here also... LOL.. I think I may start working on some side jobs with car audio in the area to make a few extra bucks...

I think the XBL2 XXXs were probably some of the best sounding subs ever made, home or car audio. I still run a pair of the 18s in my living room. Honestly, I have bought and used maybe 50 or 60 subs from RE, and I have always been very happy, they are just a little pricey these days... I think I have installed maybe 30 RE 8s over the years, LOL...

LOL, I think I saw your truck this Spring at "Moms"

You could spend all kinds of time with a DMM, O-scope, test CDs and an audio shop. OR, you could do it all by yourself by simply turning the volume down a notch... I don't know about your driving/wind problem, but, if you can bottom out a sub all that it means is thatyou have an enclosure efficient enough to get the full stroke out of the driver with the available power, and this is a good thing. Building a different box so the subs can "Handle more power" is really stupid, because all you will accomplish is lower your efficiency, and 99% it won't be louder. Turn the volume down.

Everything you are looking at is waste of money, unless you are primarily concerned with looks. Best cable out there, hands down, is Supraflex welding cable. It is as flexible, tolerates heat/chemicals/damage better than any of the car audio stuff. It usually costs less also. Check out Weldingdepot.com or Weldingsupply.com

I agree. You have a pair of 3Kw amps, they have massive transformers in the PS, a little mechanical noise when at full tilt would be normal I would think...

You need at least 4000 watts each to even get the BTLs moving....

LOL, there aren't 2 amps made that measure the same..... Someone, somewhere can tell a difference, and frankly, that is all that matters.... Arguing over this subject is, kind of silly really.... It is like saying that a color of car is better than another.... It is all opinion, perception, ignorance, education, etc... I never could figure out why people say "Real watts".... Is there any other kind, seriously? Every single amp makes "Real watts"... Some just more than others.... If I owned a company like Audiobahn, Pyramid, Rockwood, etc... I sure as hell would put whatever power rating I felt like on the case.... People buy into that crap... That is how you make money... I just find it strange when people discover this and get confused/surprised I guess...

Err, I guess... But... He didn't see them wrapped up in carpet... Don't get me wrong, it looks awesome, but.... As far as performance... Well, it is for show, not go... Heat sinks only work when convection can take place, there has to be air movement. The heat from the amp causes the air to move, from cold to hot... It is real simple, if there is a path. The whole idea is to couple the heat from the sink to the air, the more air that is cooler than the sink that is drwan across it, the more heat is dissipated... I have built maybe 10 amplifiers, from scratch. I have built an ass-load of heatsinks, from scratch. I have done an ass-load of tests on my home built amplifiers and heatsinks.... They work alot better when air flows around them...

LOL, how could anyone ever complain about heat issues with an install like that? Don't get me wrong, it really looks awesome, you definetly have an installer that has a ton of attention to detail and takes pride in his craftsmanship. But as far as performance, that has to be about the worst thing you could do to an amp if there is no forced air cooling... Other than totally seal it up. This thread should have never even started.

People are ignorant about steel case ammo. They base thier opinoins on heresay. 9000+ rounds through one of my AKs with no chamber damage, at all. I even reload the boxer primed 45 ACP steel case ammo... works fine, my Lee carbide dies don't even know the difference... I have a Rock River arms AR-15 that has seen upwards of few thousand rounds also...

One of my pride and joys.... Not a handgun, but lots of fun none the less. Aramlite AR-50

Ouch. That is what I meant when I said some states impose more strict (unconstitutional) control. My advice in this situation would be to A, buy from a private individual, or B buy in another state where allowed and roll the dice on bringing it home.... Take that for what it is.... If you ever get caught with a firearm and get in trouble and it ISN'T for shooting someone, you were a dumbass somewhere along the line... But #1 thing is, buying any kind of firearm these days with your name attached anywhere to the purchase is less than ideal. You just never know the way things will go... I feel for you guys in the F'd up states... Washington is pretty decent, we can buy from private people and not have to register transactions. The BS waiting period is waved if you have a CCW, and to get your CCW all you have to do is pay $60 and give fingerprints. You are not required to have a license to own/sell/purchase anything that isn't class II or III.

Not to mention that when you lower impedance distortion rises, heat rises, dampening factor drops, efficiency drops, copper loss increases, and things (amps) don't last as long.... There is a reason there is not a lot of 2 ohm components out there... And the ones that are "2 ohms" may not be what you may think is 2 ohms....

You don't have to have a license or register a handgun. It is stupid to "register" any weapon under your name unless you are worried about the person it was previously "registered" to getting in trouble. If you buy a gun from a dealer, they are required to register the transaction, that is all. Your name, the gun you bought, nothing else. It isn't a license. If you can always try and buy your gun from a private party, legally. There are no transactions required for this. It isn't like CSI where everyone has a gun "licensed" to them... It is really a misconception... Some states may enforce stricter laws than this, but Federal law is you don't need a license to own any firearm unless it is class 2,3 etc....

If they can ship it to an APO address it will only be about $20-30 for shipping and be there in less than a week.

The RMS power handling of the sub has absolutely NOTHING to due with power requirments. 600 watts will be fine, and could even be too much in some alignments....