95Honda

Just don't forget that if you connect the two motors together with any kind of metal (I assume you will) and the connection is anywhere in the magnetic circuit, be sure and use a non-ferrous metal like aluminum or brass.... I think that big slug of metal in the Morel driver right in the middle is aluminum... Or maybe magnesium...

Honestly, I think (well really know) that you and a handfull of others on here could do this, and that you truly understand what 10,000 watts is. For the others, I think that if they somehow actually got 10,000 watts to thier woofers, they will need a ton of recones... That is just an absurd amount of power....

The bigger the box and the higher the tuning the greater the peak.... That is about it really... You could put that driver in a 7+ ft3 box tuned in the 50s and get extremely loud right at tuning, but play it anywhere else and you are asking for trouble.... The more efficient you make the box, the louder it will get, the less bandwidth it will have and the easier it will be to destroy the driver if you play out of that narrow bandwidth....

10,000 watts to each? You need to order the crate-of-recones option.....

Can't find a link so I scanned the back of a 1998 Speaker Builder issue.... It is the sub in the middle....

Amplifier manufacturer's have no idea, or even care, about loudspeaker impedance curves. When they rate an amplifier, it is into a purely resistive load (i.e. a load resister). This is completely different than a loudspeaker load. Loudspeakers do not have "resistance" they have "impedance". You never measure the "resistance" of a loudspeaker, you ONLY measure the "impedance" because it is a reactive load. The amplifiers are spec'd into a resistive load because it is a repeatable, comparable way to rate an amplifer. Hooking an amplifier up to a loudspeaker is a horrible way to get comparison due to the different impedance magnitudes and phase angles. So to answer your question, NO. Amplifier manufacturers don't take any of this (loudspeaker impednace curve) into consideration. They tell you the minimum impedance the amplifier is stable to into a purely resistive load and it is YOUR responsibility to know if you have dipped below this threshold. Also, please don't forget that loudspeakers have "impedance" they DO NOT have "resistance".....

Ughh... OK, "Impedance rise" is a made up term and means nothing. There is no such thing and whoever coined it is a moron.... There is however, an "impedance curve" of a loudspeaker, and this goes both UP and DOWN in impedance magnitude, hence the word "curve" and not "rise" The DCR of a voice coil has absolutely nothing whatsover to do with the impedance that will be presented to the amp. I almost wish people didn't know how to hook the test leads of a DMM up to loudspeaker terminals, all it does is confuse most everyone.... Never, ever, ever under ANY circumstances will the impedance of a loudspeaker be near the DCR. It is impossible... Impedance ratings of a driver are an average rating. That is why they are rated in whole numbers like 1, 2 or 4 ohm. Even though people say they do all the time, nobody has a dual 1.87 ohm subwoofer.... They have a dual 2 ohm subwoofer. And nobody has a sub that measures a little low at "1.6 ohms"...... They just don't have any idea what they are measuring... The only accurate way to measure impednace is with some kind of bridge. If you don't have an impedance bridge, use a RMS voltage and clamp meter, you need to take about 50 measurements between 20 and 60 Hz.....

Morel has had dual motor drivers for years.... They were actually called push-pull... They didn't really catch on I guess... From Bass Box Pro info window- "Morel's push pull principle incorporated in this superb woofer has two distinct identical motors and double magnet for each motor, making the system for powerful inside the shallow chassis." This driver is in a bunch of my Speakebuilder magazines from the late 90's

Isobarik does nothing for upper end or change the sound or frequency response. It cuts the Vas and efficiency in half of what the single driver would be, that's it.... There are marginal linear gains in stroke do to push-pull if you go that route... I think your better off just using 2 drivers...

I had it posted on my site (Forceaudio) about a year ago and just saw it again when I brought it back online...

Something may be screwed in the feedback loop. Alot of times if you know what model the OPAMP is you can look up the feedback circuit diagram.... If you can, check the parts and make sure it still works, without proper feedback on those, they will oscillate uncontrollably...

Do you realize that raising the power handling doesn't make it any louder?

Just use any of the box modeling programs on the net. It doesn't matter or change the tuning frequency if the port is inside or outside of the box. Just be sure not to exceed the ratio of 1:9 for your cross-sectional area of the port if it is rectangular (i.e. a 1" x 8" port is OK, but a 1" x 10" port could be a performance compromise).

No matter what anyone tells you, it will be louder off that amp than any other sub from Fi you can stick in there.... Technically, it is also the most "efficient" match for that amp....

Just remember, every time you are at a rock concert and hear that fast bass and toms from the drummer smacking you in the chest..... It is from 18s....

You don't need to connect them, use either +/-, they are connected on the inside. You are just talking about the amp connections, right? Not the speaker connections, right?

What are your goals? If it is loud, then the BTL will be the loudest of the two off of that, or any amp for that matter.

Just remember, if your car has a frame, you are just throwing away money if you run negative cables front to back....

Complete BS specs..... Also, generally speaking, with the same motor, the SPL goes up with larger cone size, not down...

#1, if it seems to good to be true (sensitivity rating) than it probably is..... Most of the cheap subs (assuming they actually will play bass) that say they are 95db plus are full of crap... #2, a sub with higher sensitivity will be louder at all power levels until you run into the linear excursion and power compression limits. At this point, a lower sensitivity sub can be louder (assuming it has more linear stroke and less power compression), granted it will take more power.

I would view it, but I'm banned from there LOL....

Yes. . .actually between houses and plan to run them ported in the new HT room! Just bought another one. . .Love those drivers. Did you notice a lack of upper bass with them in the home too, or just in the car? My Tumults and XXXs didn't have that problem... I wonder if that was a caveat of the Avalanche?

You still running the 4 sealed in the house?

And she won't get that allowance until she moves into a house off base/post. It has been 12 years since I was in basic training, we were given money then. But, I think the military has gone almost 100% paperless (direct deposit) for paychecks these days. I have not seen a paycheck since the late 90s come to think about, it has all been direct deposit...

The XBL2 drivers don't have less upper end. They have less Le and distortion, which gives the opposite..... If you want louder you can do better with the others, as far as better sound, well the XBL2 motors are tough to beat by any standard...