95Honda

How are you going to read your coils to see how many watts you are putting out?

Your head unit may only put out 4 volts at absolute maximum into a perfect load, so I wouldn't sweat it....

If yuo have to ask, then.......

That's pretty much it. Anything changes, anywhere in the chain, at all, and your 53.256474 VRMS setting is as usefull as condoms were to Octomom....

You guys have to remember that strand count only affects flexibilty, nothing else when talking DC. Even the E-bay crap that looks smaller due to the lower strand count has the same amount of copper and doesn't conduct any less. It is cheap to use less strands, they are just thicker. It is the same cross-sectional area. Don't get caught up in the thicker looking is better. If it were a solid conductor it would be almost 1/2 the diameter....

Stinger = Ripoff Pheonix Gold = Ripoff Etc, Etc...... KNU Aluminum = Tricking people into buying inferior wire......

Stay away from the KNU aluminum garbage.....

There isn't anyone on here who could tell the difference between a sine wave using an O'Scope from any Hifonics or "higher end" Class D amp when driven within it's parameters..... The clean dirty thing is kind of a joke with class D amps, especially the way we run them in car audio..... Run until clipping and they are all about the same... Setting your gains with an O'Scope is a complete waste of time and gay, IMO..... The only thing that (thermally) blows a sub is too much power. Thats it. And the amp you are talking about can produce more power than any BTL can take take, so yes you can blow it..... You could also run 4 of those amps on one BTL and it last for years if you have a clue what you are doing. If it sounds bad or smells, turn it down... If youy can't tell if it sounds bad or you can't smell, buy an amp that is much less power

Where are you in the Netherlands? I am in Kaiserslatern, if you can make the trip, I can help you out. Just PM me.

I thought it was common knowlege that Bl and Mms relates to effeciency, not transient response. This was one of the main points touted in XBL2, underhung, etc technology, high stroke with a small (short) coil with low Le (preserved transients).... I wouldn't call them nonsense at all, though.....

People who buy anything but welding cable are throwing thier money away.... lol... You can get real good prices online if you look hard enough... "Car Audio" power cable is a joke, that aluminum crap from Knu is a real bad joke....

The impedance costantly changes with frequency. So if you don't meaure it at the frequency you are taking your voltage readings at, you hav eno idea what power levels you are dealing with. This all boils down to the numerous posts we see on here that say "I set my voltage at 53.6753V blah, blah, blah" that have people thinking they are doing something productive when all they are doing is playing wiht a bunch of crap they don't understand. Set the gain by ear. It is really easy if you have one amp. If it starts distorting, you have it too loud, turn something down.

Again, you don't have any clue what your impedance is, so all of this is a waste.

you lost me with "cuz"..................

.75 is your DCR and has little to do with the box impedance.... There is no such thing as "impedance rise". This term is a wrong way of describing what happens. You have an imedance curve or plot. This both rises and falls... Hence "rise" is not accurate. The biggest thing that effects your impedance curve is your box resonance and tuning. 10 or so Hz in either direction and your impedance can easily shift 2-4x either up or down.... This is also why it is completely pointless to set your gain with a DMM when you have no idea what the impedance is....

It is pointless to do any of these voltage calculations without knowing the impedance.....

The port area vs. box volume rule is a myth. To determain port area needed you need to know linear excursion, Sd and power input. Box volume has little, if nothing, to do with it. This "Rule of thumb" was made up to keep idiots from using a 1.5" I.D. PVC pipe with 2 18" drivers because they neglected to look at vent velocity with thier modeling program, or the program left that function out.... Additionally, the shape of the vent terminus has little to do with the area needed, unless it is some kind of extreme shape, or in the case of a slot goes beyond about 1:10 ratio of height to width....

I would take anything Dan Wiggins tells you he do for you with a grain of salt.... There is a reason Adire isn't around anymore, and that pretty much is it... I think it would be much easier and pratical (and perform better) to change your goals to allow more cone area with your designs instead of increased xmax.... Or lower your overall output goal... Another thing about prototypes and one-offs (like the Parth)... If they do work as promised, over time, you always run the risk of screwing them up and then you just have a multi thousand dollar door stop. The Parthenon has never been used in an actuall alignemnt other than having a large dipole diaphram attached to it (someone please correct me with a picture if I am wrong here) and the pole piece/suspention was never really endurance tested. When you saw it operate, it had full contact moving parts, the kind that wear out really quick.... Awesome motor though... That bastard was over $1K in raw materials though, iirc....

Go to Walmart and buy the biggest bastard they have. Will be around $100 and pretty much identical in overall system performance to any of the batteries mentioned... It is just bigger and heavier... I bought 8 of the big ass yellow ones they used to sell a few years ago.... They worked just fine....

Since when is the RMS power rating a "requirement"? This isn't even remotely true......

You are going to get a killer deal on those passives.... He is probably going to build you ones with the same quality parts as the normal drivers... These types of passives are usually almost twice that expensive....

Here is a test we did a few years back... Always surprises people... http://forum.carstereos.org/clipping-test-...41.html?t=47441 -Mike

Borrow a camera and take some pics....

So, Pics?

On the board it should have a little silk-screened print underneath with a stripe at one end... Tells you what way to place it... But if there aare 4 of them it should be easy, it should be in some type of pattern, 2 one way, and 2 the other way......