95Honda

You would only need a line driver if you have to drive low impedance loads. LOCs will have enough juice to drive the input of any normal amp....

I really like the idea of the secondary coil. I played around with one of the Atlas subs when they first came out... I remember Dan showing me the prototypes, they were prettly slick.... I had built a set of mini-monitors in the early 90's with some of the original Focal 6 1/2" Kevlar DVC drivers. A guy in our audio club had explained to me using the second coil with a potentiometer hooked up to adjust the alignment, I used a 100W l-pad and it was pretty cool to play with.

Depends on the driver and power. If you have a single 10" or 12" driver and a few hundred watts, it would be just fine. To figure out the length just use any of the free web based programs, you shouldn't have any issues getting close...

There are a few pro-audio drivers with 6" coils and resonable inductance w/high power handling. High efficency too.... Also, you need to think about it as surface area, so a large diameter coil may have no more inductance and weight than a smaller diameter coil that is longer...

Why don't you just read up on the ratios and expected ripple? You obviously have the experience.....

If they are both in the same box, I would stay below 100Hz, even with 4th order slopes. If they are in 2 seperate boxes and located somwhere near the mains, then you might get away with a little higher cutoff. When they blend the best and you don't go "Damn, that is my sub right there" every time a bass drum hits then you should have everything OK. I can't stand anything but stereo subwoofers placed near the mains. It never sounds right any other way to me....

Quick thought on your amp shutting off... Are you sure it is because of overcurrent? I only ask because the PAC LOCs can be a pain in the ass as far as the remotr turn on voltage. They have a really bad sensing circuit. When the voltage to them drops more than a volt or so (I mean the 12V feed) they shut off the remote turn on output for a second or so, causing most amps to shut off for a moment... Causing you to think it is an overcurrent issue with the amp. The last 3 systems I have installed with PAC LOCs have done this. I have ended up bypassing the remote turn on function. An easy way to check is to monitor the remote turn on voltage when the amp shuts down, if it drops, the PAC is to blame... They make a good output conveter section, but the remote power section is absolute crap... I have spoke with thier engineers and they (hestitantly) admit this issue...

That should be plenty of port area, you'll be just fine....

Don't even waste your time with a DMM or O'Scope.. Besides, 99% of the people who think they are doing it right, aren't...... Trust your ears and nose..... If you can't, buy a smaller amp....

It shouldn't take a ton of power in most IB alignments to get full excursion out of the drivers, especially down low. Could you post the T/S parameters of those drivers? I wonder if they are truly intended for IB. Sometimes a manufacturer will say a driver is IB capable when it is not truly optimized for this (sometimes the suspention is just way to compliant, even though the Q is right to give decent response without a box).... Is the volume output adequate, or is it lacking in your opinion?

Very nice. Great sub, also!

The sub could care less if you send it a clipped signal, it doesn't hurt anything.... That light may start blinking at the very onset of clipping, maybe an amount of 1% or so. This isn't audible and is inconcequencial to your subs. As stated earlier, if your amplifer has the ability to produce more power than the speaker's RMS rating, than this is what will blow your sub.... So be careful. If you don't want to see the clipping light, either turn down the volume somewhere or hide the bass knob...

I doesn't hurt anything, I personally wouldn't bother taking it out if you already installed it. Why do you need to discharge it anyway? Just leave it as is if you remove it and doen't let anything metal touch the terminals. It won't shock you.

Normally you'll never damage anything. It is too low in frequency to hit anything but subs and mids and they can usually soak up short term bursts like that without issue.

Unless the amp is the 1st thing off and last thing on, you get thud. Period. It's that simple.

You guys are looking into this way too much. Light flashing = More power than the engineer intended for the tweeter. That simple. Has nothing to do with clipping, gain settings, bi-wiring, etc... If you get the lights to stop flashing, it just means you reduced power in some way. Don't mental masturbate this...

Really, they are light bulbs. When they light up, thier impedance goes up dramatically and they start dropping voltage. This keeps you from theoretically blowing the tweeter. If they are lighting up all the time, you are applying more power than the designers intended for this particular system. I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just seriously think about this.

Yep, just like the picture.... If you made the baffle thin enough, you could still fold the seats down, you would just have the back of a woofer sticking out...

They are part of an analog compression circuit to protect the tweeters, like Todd said. Really, they are light bulbs. When they light up, thier impedance goes up dramatically and they start dropping voltage. This keeps you from theoretically blowing the tweeter. If they are lighting up all the time, you are applying more power than the designers intended for this particular system. One other thing, they really muck up the sound.... I always replace them with a piece of wire, but if you are literally keeping them lit up, that may not be good advise in your case...

Does your S4 have the fold down section in the rear seat for skis and things like that? I have done IB installs where I built a funnel, well more of a reducer, out of fiberglass that fed the sub straight into that hole. Drop the armrest and, bam.... IB bass out the ass. I think I used a few 12" pioneer IMPP free air (high Q) subs like this... This was about 10 years ago..... Sounded pretty good, really... I wish I had pics. Nice thing about the German cars is the trunk is sealed off real well and is good for IB.

I have a pair of these in my H/T system. They are in about 8ft3 tuned low. For the car, around 5ft3 @ 30Hz works real well. I have installed maybe 4 or 5 of these in this size/tuning and they have all sounded great. If you don't have the room, these woofers really worked great sealed. They are a pretty high Q woofer and really have a nice response sealed. In fact, with the XBl2 motor, I don't think you can find a lower distortion, high stroke woofer under $1K. Around 4ft3 is good for the 18. But if you want all out SPL, go ported...

It's Noalox, and I have been using it since the early 90s. It is especially useful in the engine compartment.... But again, this type of cable (aluminum) is only really popular to the car audio guys in these big-ass gages.... Why? For the only reason it flies with car audio guys, looks. You don't see this crap on high current auto/boat installs hardly anywhere. This is because these people usually don't mind that it is some attention getting color with insulation that is twice as thick as it needs to be..... Additionally, who wants 4 runs of 1" cable going from one end of the car to the other when 1/2 as many is all you need with copper???? And last time I checked, CCA wire isn't half the price of welding cable.....

Aluminum wire is garbage and I really think most people use it because it looks cool from Knu, being all thick and crap..... And cheap... lol....

Above vented box tuning (and Sealed resonance) it doesn't matter how much power each driver gets, it won't hurt anything as they will all be moving exactly in phase assuming the polarity is correct. You could have 100 watts on one driver and 200 to another in the same enclosure and it won't matter.... The only problem with this is that you aren't balancing the load thermally, and at full power some drivers may reach mechanical limits before the others. Other than that, no much wrong with the different coil configurations. You will probably always be at or above the impedance rating of the subwoofers when they are used in an enclosure, and any amp that is 1 ohm stable shouldn't have any issues driving a load that slightly dips below this. You could always run the amp above it's minimum rating and have cleaner bass, higher efficiency and longer equipment life...... But I think everyone kind of forgets that around here....

If installed correctly even drywall screws will last forever. If you need something stronger, T-nuts or similar with good quality socket head machine bolts work best....