95Honda

Lol, I know about the shine part... I guess it shines when it is in thermal overload, compressed all to hell and nailing that awesome 10-20% distortion threshold....

You'll blow the sub. And it won't have anything to do clipping, gains, box, bass boost or anything else. It will only be because you will try and get a coil that is rated to dissipate the heat that 1000 watts generates to handle twice what it is designed for....... When people say on here they run subs at 2-3X RMS all the time, it is only because they really don't realize that the average power they are apllying is much less than they think..

I would try and at least use a 3" ID port for a pair of those 8s, as a minimum. A 4" ID port or larger would be best. It really depends on your power though, the area of the vent has nothing to do with the box size.... That is a stupid rule of thumb... I have installed tons of 8s. Hundreds really. With mosts drivers that have around an inch of throw, a 3" ID port for the pair is usually adaquate and is about as long as you can go unless your box is an extremely thin design.... For the Tangband (both neo and ceremic motors) and the RE and Parts Express Reference 8s, I almost always end up at .7-1ft3 per pair of 8s with a 3" ID PVC vent tuned at 30Hz... That always has seemed to work very well and not introduce a noticable amount of compression.... For all out efficiency at full stroke, I have used larger vents, like the ones in My Avatar, that is 3 x 4" ID Aeros for each set of (4) 8s.....

The only thing we'll ever agree on is shitty diapers, lol.....

Well, because you usually net a very flat, low-ripple response when tuned around 20Hz or lower. This is when the very large, low tuned enclosures are very popular for H/T. Tuning higher than that will sacrifce that bottom octave, and that bottom octave is where DIY wins hands down over commercial offerings.... My current subwoofers use 18" XBL2 XXXs. They are tuned at 18Hz and are in large, low tuned enclosures. They are only used for a little under 2 octaves as true subwoofers. Group delay doesn't even really enter the realm of concern down this low. My mains take over around 50Hz... Group delay becomes a major concern in full range enclosures and subwoofers that operate above the bottom 2 octaves of the overall spectrum. I guess all I am saying is, when you are building a subwoofer that is large and low tuned as you guys are talking in this thread, I would be more concerned with proper alignment execution and enclosure construction than group delay. Additionally, for movies and the use of source material from the LFE or similar mix, you are talking a lot of low frequency energy that will leave little to the listener to discern bad group delay. Music is another story, but again, if you are talking the bottom 2 octaves, it isn't a huge concern as there isn't a whole lot down there anyway... I think it is great how you are helping people out on here with box designs, and I am not trying to discount that fact.

When you tune around 20Hz or lower and only play an octave or 2 above, group delay really isn't a very audible problem. Also don't forget that Passive radiators don't offer an advantage in group delay over standard 4th order vented alignments above resonance.....

So in your long post you had your drivers choosen before your power, right? I'm not going to argue with you bud, the OP didn't really understand what he was asking and we pointed him in the right direction. Subjective answers only perpetuate incorrect knowlege. Believe it or not, there are people on here who have more experience and knowlege than you. Help by giving objective advice.....

That is some of the most subjective nonsense I have ever read........

The RMS rating of a subwoofer has asolutely nothing to do with output.... Why is this BS still on this forum? The RMS rating of a subwoofer has absolutely, and I mean absolutely nothing to do with the power required to drive a loudspeaker to full output... There is no such thing as "impedance rise". There is an impedance curve, it goes up and down. System impedance cannot drop below DCR, ever. If you think you have measured this, your either full of crap or have no idea what you are doing... Only an idiot would spec out power before figuring out box alignment....

I'm not trying to turn this into an argument, but this is the way it works- Determain your output goals (nothing to do with power yet) Determain your drivers you will use (still nothing to do with power) Design your enclosure, and then you will actually know what your power requirements are.... If you are able, apply the power you need to meet you goals......

I'm sorry, but when you say you need something that handles 2-2.5Kw, that is just plain back-aswards... Do you have any clue on the box? If not, then power requirements are pretty much a guess....

I didn't really have much experience with the Avalanche. I do know that it has a smaller, less costly motor..... Little less throw also.... Other than that, I think they were similar. It was a shame they went out of production, I think they were a good deal. Bickering between them and Adire killed the whole thing....

It is getting so bad it is almost comical... We are selling one of our older SLR cameras on a site similar to Craigslist over here in Germany... So I get the response "I would love to buy the camera, only problem is I am on buisness in Russia and my wife lives in Africa, If I will pay you more than $200 than you are asking can you ship it to her? I will pay you immediately upon reciept"... blah blah blah.... It is almost scary that anyone actually falls for these... So I decided what I am going to do... My 2 year old daughter just filled a diaper with the nastiest crap I think she has ever taken. I am going seal it in a plastic bag, box it up and mail it to the guy....

If you tune low like 15-20Hz, I wouldn't worry too much about a SSF.

I haven't heard anything, I doubt I really will honestly..... I'll bet they probably laughed about after the fact.... That is also why I put a fake return address on there....

No see, this is where you aren't understanding how this works. You take a BTL and give it 1 watt, it will be louder than any other FI sub with 1 watt. The BTL has the highest RMS rating, but requires the least amount of power for comparable output.... But this is a dead horse at this point, some people get this, others will "Give it it's RMS".....

This is the biggest mistake people make. You think because the RMS rating is higher, it needs more power? I still saw the "Give it RMS" a few posts ago, lol.......

Why? It is the thermal rating of the voicecoil. Period. The number one factor for power requirments is the enclosure alignment. The dumbest thing you read about this is when someone says "Give it it's RMS"..... Which amp? Whatever you get the better deal on....

If you use sufficent gauge wire, there will be no difference. If you use some B/S Wall Mart 18 gauge zip-cord, you might be able to measure, let alone hear a difference.....

I think it is great you guys still service these drivers. They are on top of my all time list, I still am amazed every day when I listen to my set of 18s David put together for me 6 years ago......

I always use stereo subs. It makes a huge difference. Especially for dealing with room anomalies. I cross over as low as 60Hz 6th order on my current subs. I can tell when my daughter has turned the gain knob down on one of my sub amps do to the enequal left/righ sub balance....

The RMS rating of a subwoofer has absolutely nothing to do with power requirements in the slightest.

The port area versus enclosure volume is only meant to keep idiots from using a 1" I.D. vent with a high-stroke 18" driver..... Other than that, it is pretty useless....

As long as you can properly terminate it to the driver/amp, there is no such thing as too big. You just get drastically diminishing returns after a certain point. As long as your runs aren't really long, I don't think there are many installs out there where #8 will introduce signifigant voltage drop....

Check out the link, it is HSU research......