95Honda

I gave a bunch of info/possible drivers here- my wasted time helping with bandpasses thread

You need to drive somewhere to pay someone to find out what is wrong with your system. It is all going to be mental masturbation for you up until that point....

I just realized I totally forgot to have my dad bring me your capscrews..... I am sorry man, I totally forgot... Awesome pics!!!!

pinnaclespeakers.com

37 Liter Vas is more than likely going to be the deal breaker.... Since your not trying to get into a cab from a trunk, going wiht a normal 4th order vented, or even sealed might be your best option.

4th Bandpass can have as good, if not better performance than a standard 4th vented. The trick is, you need to find a driver suitable, and many times this is not easy with most "car audio" subs on the market. The biggest problem is that most of the newer subs are so uncompliant that they have a super low Vas and must must be put into small enlcosures to avoid excess ripple. In a bandpass this is a problem do to the fact that 100% of the output is coming from the vent, and it is often very unpractical to get the size vent you need into the proper box. if you are using a 10" or 12" driver with a Vas less than 2ft3 or so, good luck... Especially if you are using a single driver. When you find a driver that suits the bandpass criteria better (I listed a few and modeled them on a thread last month to help a guy out, turned out to be a waste of time) model it on any of the availible programs. Look for a decent response with less than a few db of ripple and don't get all crazy with the gain. A few db is a good target to start with.. If you start getting gain happy, you'll either end up with a very narrow passband or a very narrow passband and an unacceptable amount of ripple. 60-70Hz of bandwidth is well more than enough. I wouldn't try to extend the lowend F3 below 30 Hz for in car use if it sacrifices efficiency or increases ripple.... Good luck...

Pay someone local who knows what they are doing to pinpoint the problem with you system. It isn't woofer(s).

Either way, your system is very well thought out and I am sure you are going to decide on something that really works well. Personally, and since you have the room, I would go with a full-size dome.... You have alot of room.... If you are worried about output, you could choose a higher sensitivity/robust power handling one. I am a big fan of the Ring radiators from Vifa. You could even look into the Morel horn loaded ones (they have a couple) if you are sure you can get them fairly on axis, I think they are also ferrofluid filled. So they can probably take a little short term abuse well...... No dome is going to be nearly as loud as that pro-audio tweeter you have now, but it still might surprise you.. Problem with using multiple tweeters is (unless you get them in a line array that actually works) you get serious beaming when you put a few of them together, 4 of them in a square almost makes a spotlight dispersion pattern... All kinds of wierd things start happening with lobing and other strange unprecitable effects.. Additionally, done right, a single pair of high quality domes that close to the listening position with any amount of decent power should keep up with anything but retard levels of continuos playback...

I don't know if I would use Pinnacle. I have a set of PN-6 Pinnacle bookshelf speakers, that company has been around a while...

You need to run the T/S parameters through a box calculator, just randomly picked volumes makes no sense, like ^^^ said......

BTW, those are some nice door pods....

I would be personally conserned about 2 things. #1, if you already have those midbasses, I am not sure those B/G planars would keep up, they aren't nearly as sensitive and don't handle a ton of power. #2, I would be worried about the off-axis response if you are not able to mount them perfect. Just a thing to remember, even the top end planars are only comparable to a $50 Vifa ring radiator... Read all the hype all you want, but they just aren't a miracle. I spent alot of time in the early 90's modifiying many Magnaplanars, they were the reference speakers we had at Audioprism when I worked there. Thier top end models didn't even use planar tweeters, they used ribbons.... Huge long ribbons... I spent alot of time with them, got used to the sound. I still don't think they were comparable to standard conventional drivers... Read Zaph's last test- ribbon/planar tests

I am an RF transmissions specialist... I fix radios, sat equip, etc... I also maintain bandwidth management equipment, run networks... I go to Afghanistan often and try and fix systems that Taliban ass-holes blow up or poor farmers rob for parts to fix thier tractors.... That kind of stuff..

Well, we have orders to Colorado Springs and will be leaving Germany in about a month and a half, so we went ahead and bought a house about 15 minutes from Peterson AFB. Prices are low, interest rates are low, it was a good time to buy. It should be closed before we get there. We are pretty excited, I'll actually have space to work on projects again....

Guys, here are few things to remember- With stranded wire, there is no cross-sectional measurement. It is based (the cross sectional area is comprised of) on individual strand size and count. The diameter is meaningless do to the varying methods of constrution of the conductor. I.E. rope-lay, twisted, etc... It doesn't matter if it is CCA, aluminum, copper or anything else. The AWG rating is the same. X awg of copper = X awg of CCA as far as the total amount of conductor cross sectional area (and this has nothing to do with the overall diameter). When you get a CCA cable that is X awg and a welding cable that is the same X awg, they have the exact same cross sectional area, if one appears thicker it is because of the conductor arrangement and individual strand size/count. Anything from the welding supply places is more than likely true awg. Aluminum or CCA is a marketing gimmick. Period. Buy it if you are stupid and like to waste money. Skin effect is only relevent with AC signals. Higher strand count with DC only improves flexibility.

It is when things like this get posted that makes others believe you don't really know what you are asking. Don't take it the wrong way, but the terminology has nothing to do with this forum. You have some guys on here who have been at this a while. I've got over 20 years under my belt building loudspeakers, amplifiers etc.... We are here to help, don't get all bent out of shape. Think about what you are asking before you type and try and phrase your questions so you get objective answers...

It might be hard to get the right sized box in a TL for an 18. Just a thought... Also, like M5 says, an 18" driver just for SQ? Maybe if you were going IB... Also forget about a horn or T-line for an 18" with usable extension, they wouldn't fit in just about any car made... Also if you are looking at purely Sq, I would add some of the newer XBl2 subs from DIY cable and the TC pro-18 (probably the lowest distortion 18 under about an 1" or so of throw) to the list. Again, you will need a huge box though and I don't think you realize what you are asking for....

Thanks guys... Yeah, we are pretty stoaked right now... You know what else is great, moving to a new place and having a house ready... I have 2 little girls and a wife, so this is a huge stress relief... get there and get settled quick....

Well, like I proved in the test, this isn't the case... But take it for what it is... I think people neglect the actuall efficiency of thermal transfer. The air isn't coming out as a steady flow, it is constantly changing in pressure and velocity.... Without testing, it is an erroneous assumption to say clipping negatively efffects thermal cooling do to air flow, it could actualy be the opposite. But until you do a test, you cannot make this statement, you can only make an assumption... And as with most car audio, assumptions are usually wrong... Additionally, depending on the dampening of the driver, a clipped signal of the same power will allow more excursion than an unclipped one....

I'm sure it makes a difference, but the test just goes to show clipping isn't nearly as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Additionally, the excursion with those small drivers is proportional to a few inches in a large driver... I haven't seen many other people go to this length to test this either... There's a million "what ifs", but when you break it down, it's hard to dispute hard data... Everyone says a clipped signal produces more heat, I proved it doesn't...

God, it is almost a waste of time to post anymore...... Nick, I feel for you man.... I couldn't deal with this BS for one day.. lol....

Are you serious? How did you get that out of this thread?

The output of amplifier changes with frequency due to the system impedance. Because it is OK at one frequency, doesn't mean it won't run out of gas at another frequency. You may be running the amp into hard clipping, and that is audible. It can make all kinds of wierd noises. The numbers you quote about your headunit settings are arbitrary... NDMstang65 knows more about that sub than anyone else, I would listen to what he says....

We've been here a little over 3 1/2 years. It has been awesome, but it is time to get back to the USA....

This is an incorrect assumption when you only use modeling software. The reason is, when you get closer to the infrasonic region, which for some of us is above 20Hz, the system starts leaving the audible realm and moving into a tactile one. The problem this poses is, most of us have very insesitive hearing down there. But what we can still hear well are all of the vent attributes other than the intended output. Basically, the ratio of port introduced distortions to intended output are much greater than at higher frequencies. This why, in practice, you really don't want to start rolling back on your vent area because you are dealing with lower frequencies...