95Honda

There is no minimum power to "push" a sub. Additionally, power requirements are going to depend on the enclosure alignment. The RMS rating of the sub has absolutely nothing to do with power requirements. Buy what you can afford, if you have extra power it is just headroom...

The roll-off is more around 24db/octave or greater. Your example is not Infinite Baffle because the rear wave of the driver is 180 degrees out of phase with the front and being combined in close proximity, hence the greater than 24db/octave roll-off. Infinite Baffle means exactly that, there is an infinite space behind the driver, completely isolated from the front. Infinite Baffle drivers also have different parameters to allow them to operated in this specific environment. Infinite Baffle is not as efficient as a standard 4th order vented box, all else being equal...

Where do you get this crap? Seriously, you need to think or at least do a little research before you make statements like this.

They are easy to use, especially with the flange that allows easy installation. They also cut down air turbulance... They don't perform miracles, but they are worth the few extra buckes vs. regular ABS/PVS pipe IMO.... Especially if you are really limiting your vent area due to space constraints... I have been using them for years, and have always like the results when I chose that type of vent...

Great pictures, BTW...

I really like those and have used them for almost 10 years now, Different brands in the beginning, but those exact ones now. I actually use them for home audio equipment alot when the cable comes directly out of the equipment (like the power filterers I build that use 10-3 SJ cable) Only gripe? Don't use a sock and try and tighten it, that plastic nuts is super easy to break... It just snaps, it won't strip, just snaps... Happened to me twice...

I love the plate amp and sonotube in the back ground.... I can't tell you how many setups I have had like that over the years...

I have had experience with the older models (late 90s) they were really nice drivers.

Wtf was that all about? Sorry if you thought I was coming off like a dick Nick, I wasn't trying to at all man. My point was many of these "rules of thumb" are just wrong. And just like "How many Dbs" and "That woofer needs 4K watts to even work" get perpetuated into things that are just plain wrong and held as the gospel. I also never intended to have someone model an enclosure alignment, I suggested they look at vent velocity in thier chose alignemnt, which is the proper way to tackle that problem. You can do that easily with a program like WINisd... I guess I look at it this way, if they just want a rule of thumb answer, they should just be driected to the manufacturer's website and offered no additional help on this forum. It hey want help beyond that, I am going to give what I believe to be the correct answer. Again, I wasn't trying to be a dick. The clipping comment was a joke, BTW....

Oh god, I know this must be some "magical" situation wich no software can predict...

Works fine.. It's better then trying to show somebody how to model something in an anechoic environment that it will never be in I only think that works if you don't have any amplifier clipping.... lol...

In all honesty, the "port area per cubic foot" rule of thumb is not only meaningless, but just dumb. If you really want to know the answer to your specific question, you need to model your driver and get a predicted vent velocity with your chosen port. Someone on here may even do it for you if you ask. Additionally, the minimum vent area is going to also depend on how much power you will have on tap. Want an easy answer? Don't try and use much less than the the area of a 6" I.D. round port if you are going to use any signifigant amount of power. That is what I would reccomend as a minimum with that driver...

You don't even understand the test. And now you are just making shit up, lol... If you had a clue, you would understand that I never said all waveforms were the same, quite the opposite really. This is why you, and most other people who arm chair quater back this are full of BS... You just make crap up out of gut feelings. But anyway, this is truly a dead horse... I am done beating it...

That's awesome.. Lol.. ^^^ It obviously wasn't scientific.......

When you normalize the power, the square wave voltage is drastically lower, hence almost unchanged heat build up between the different waveforms when you do this. We'll never agree on this, but that is OK. I think you are about the only guy on here I will "disagree" with and still have respect for. Just about everyone else is full of shit on the subject....

You just can't make a comparison with a function generator like that. The output of a function generator is regulated by Pk-Pk voltage, not power. So when you change the output to a square wave you have doubled the power.... Unless you normalize the power, which you can't do without additional test equipment, it is not a comparison.

None of the D class sub amps roll-off before 20Hz unless it is with an intentional electronic filter. They are also more effecient at 20Hz+ than any A/B class amplifier...

1978 Bronco 8 RE8s (box in avatar) Sub channel of Alpine MRV-F450 (150 watts) 143+db on the Term Lab as measured by Black00.... Electrical upgrades? lol.... Not needed...

160db at 16Hz for a few hundred bucks... I think Wayne Harris is there also...

^^^ Ughhh, no. The type of signal doesn't effect VC failure.. But it is like beating a dead horse....

You know what is lame about this, you perpetuated a stupid myth because you didn't know how to check your stuff out. This is what is bad about internet forums...

Is the vent 3 1/2" wide at the beginning and 7" at the end? If so, something is goofed up.

You could have a box about 1/10th that size with the correct drivers for a vented alignment and reach you goals. Just a thought.....

First thing I would do is decide on a different car. That is a girls car.

If the amp is really 1000 watts, you could cook the driver.