95Honda

The RMS rating has nothing whatsoever to do with power requirements.. The BTLs will get "moving" with less power than any other sub in FIs line...

As for a crossover, the last few active 2-way systems I have done used Audio Control 2XS crossovers. I think I paid $25 or so each, used on E-bay. You solder in resistors for exact frequency setting and they have very high quality components and probably better SQ than anything made today....

Not only is off-axis response going to be an issue like Sean pointed out, and it is a big issue really, but you also have to be aware of the output capabilites.... What I mean by this is, you need to be honest with your self how loud you are going to be listening... If you are going to be demoing your system for extended times at high volume, it is easy to cook these small full-range drivers... Especially when you are using them over a very wide bandwidth... They just aren't made for higher SPLs.... I think you should stick to a 2-way, active set with a full size tweeter and a 7" ish driver... You can't go wrong, it will sound better than almost any "car audio" set at any price and have the output capability you may need... As a starting point, I would look at these tweeters- Vifa Ring Radiator Usher Dayton Reference And these woofers- Dayton Reference Dayton Reference 4 ohm, higher Q than 8 ohm, better for in door use... Usher w/phase plug. Godd off-axis response. Lower Q will be OK in door... Of course this isn't an inclusive list. Just be aware when looking at midbass drivers that if they have a very low Qts (in the .2-.3 region) you may have response problems in the bottom octave if you just simple mount them in a door with no type of enclosure... Doesn't mean they won't work great, just means they migh seem a little thin on the bottom...

I don't think you can go wrong with ScanSpeak, they are just very expensive. I have used literally 100s of thier drivers since the early 90s, so I am quite familiar with thier product.... Would I install ScanSpeak in my own car? Probably not anymore, unless I was going for a no-budget limited install. The thing is, these days, with the Chinese pretty much getting the driver QC in check and actually building a decent product, you can do Usher for much less if you like ScanSpeak. The Dayton reference drivers are scary close in performance at much less cost also. The ScanSpeaks (especially revelators) are some of the best drivers out there, you just pay for it. Also Focal can be debatable now, they haven't changed much in thier technology since I first bought some of my first 8V4412s back in 1991..... They make a good product, one of the best back in the day, but they don't warrant the high price anymore, just my opinion though... I would really look into some tweeters by Dayton Reference, Usher, Morel (They take much abuse, good in a car audio environment) Tangband, LPG, etc... For woofers I would look into the same brands, also look into picking up some extremists used, they show up here all the time. When Dan Wiggins designed those he targeted the Scanspeak 7" and I think he beat it very well, with the bottom end extension hands down....

A single 6" port will have enough surface area for most 15" drivers at all but full output. You will get small amount of compression at certain frequecies when you are nearing full output, you may or may not notice this. The single 6" has more area then the pair of 4"s. If you wanted less compression you could try 3 of the 4" ports or a pair of the 6" ports, but they (6") more than likely will be too long with your tuning for a box that size....

If you have a 4 channel amp, going active is almost no-brainer... I am not sure the type of crossover that amp has, but you can get a really nice outboard one for around $100, even less used... Also, with that type of budget, and if I were going active, you could do alot better than most of the stuff on that list.... If you are building pods could you fit a full size tweeter? (like 3.5-4" round) If so, you have literally 100s of choices if you look into the higher end "home audio" drivers... To be honest, even the top end Focal/Dynaudio/Hertx etc are no better than the $40 tweeters and woofers you find on the home audio DIY market... Read the tweeter tests and midwoofer tests here: www.zaphaudio.com You could get an idea of what I am talking about.... Additionally, $125-150 in Dayton Reference drivers (2 woofers and 2 tweeters) from Parts Express with a decent active crossover would probably (well almost definetly) be better than everything mentioned above in all but the bottom octave (say 50-100Hz)... Just some food for thought.... There is no reason for a 3-way set if you are running a substage..... I, and a few others would be willing to help you pick some drivers out once you figure your space constraints...

I would edit your post again. Think about what you are asking. Be a little more clear, specific and try and work on the way you word the question. Otherwise this thread will go down hill fast.

Should work just fine....

That is just an insane amount of power.... Just for shits and giggles any technical info you have on the power supply and output stage would be cool.... I haven't ever really dealt with kind of power in the low voltage DC world...

The Dayton brand from Parts Express is cheap and better quality than pretty much everything ^^^. The only downside is that the connectors are a little larger than some of the car audio stuff, so install must be planned accordingly.... 25' Dayton RCAs

You can easily just cascade the filter... Just add one of the F-mods to the input with roughly the same frequncy and you'll have a 4th order rolloff to match the box....

#1 Clipping doesn't kill subwoofers #2 Bass boost doesn't kill subwoofers #3 Gain settings don't kill subwoofers #4 The RMS rating has nothing to do with power requirements... The only thing that thermally destroys a sub is too much power..... Period. The amount of power you will need to get full output from the sub depends on the box. This point could be lower or higher than the thermal rating of the sub.

I have built a few, mostly with an amp and sub together. If you can, try and fire the sub and ports back... If you don't there is a greater chance to get a null right about at the front listening position, I only know this from experience in an extended cab F-150. Other than that, I have had really good success with single 12" drivers...

Quick question, does it ask if the driver is DVC and if so do you have it selected so both coils are driven? If not, Q is raised signifigantly and response is full of ripple... Othere than that, you may be modeling right, but I have no idea unless I actually see what you are doing.....

Don't ever "downsize" or cut strands to fit in a connector.... That is just ghetto... They make copper ends for all sizes of cable, normally they will have them where you buy the cable. You will just need a serious mofo crimper, but again, most welding supply places will have a crimper and will do it for you... You just have to look around... You can also find ends that are not bare copper, they are plated and won't corrode. Most of the time these are not rated awg in the size you need, instead in CU or copper units. Places that sell industrial wiring will have them, best bet is just buy a few and see what fits best. They will be cheaper than "car audio" terminations...

I had photos posted on SIN, but I think they are long gone....

I don't know where you get this "it's not very flexible" stuff from... I have Supraflex in 4/0 (yes 0000) that I have tied in a knot..... A knot the size of your fist.... And I bought it in black and red, not just orange.... So look around...

If you are concerned with performance, buy welding cable.... If you aren't, buy something else...

Until it stops acting like a port (Hemolitz Resonator) because it is too big (or extremely small), the only difference in overall response will be compression. Any other differences people find/think they find is do to miss-alignment...

Are you talking about vent size or box size? I haven't ever noticed anyone saying a larger vent would decrease bandwidth....

Generally speaking, the upper end limits of a standard 4th order vented box will be determained mostly by the response of the driver (Le most, mms and a few other parameters following suit) rather than the box.....

May be even better up there, closer to the battery... That is where the real power loss comes into play... Idealy, the amp would just be sitting on top of the battery, the low voltage/high current portion (DC power) needs to be as short as possible... Like others said, watch for airflow, etc.... When you are done, let it rip for 15 minutes or so. If you can put your hand on the heatsink and it isn't super hot, you should be OK..

You can buy locking bannana plugs. Thet won't come loose... Partsexpress has them, not very expensive...

It depends on the source material. If a majority of the content is above the crossover frequency, it will go to the tweeter, below it and it goes to the mid. Since music isn't this way most of the time, there isn't really an accurate way to tell you how much power each driver gets.... But they both could recieve full power from the amp time to time...