95Honda

Any other T/S specs for the Divine?

Just don't forget that port area has nothing to do with box volume when determaining minimum size. This is a myth. Model your vent velocities at your power level to get meaningful sizes...

I am only familiar with the original ones that had the XBL2 motors. If there is a newer or current Avalanche, I know nothing about it. That size box would be OK, you might try and go a tad larger if you could. That would be enough power in most cases. Port area has nothing to do with the box size, only the linear displacement of the drivers and power used. Those will move a lot of air, and you might be a little concerned about using a port too small that will start to introduce compression. Nobody will be able to tell you the vent area needed without knowing the linear displacement and power used and then modeling. If they do tell you as a "rule of thumb", they are talking out thier butt...

CCA is a joke played on car audio people who thick bigger is better.... Buy copper. Whatever the brand.

Yes, I published the clipping test. It was originally on Forceaudio. I think the site is still up. I have been super busy with the rest of the house and am finishing some cabinetry in the living room. I need to get it done before I start the in-walls. I'll keep you guys posted.

It is marketing BS, and is the norm with main stream car audio.

There isn't a sub made that can handle 10KW continuos. Your buddy blew the sub because he applied too much power. It had nothing to do with clipping, gain settings or anything else. Your buddy will probably blow most any other sub he buys... He needs more subs if he wants the same volume level, simple as that.

I already ran a dedicated 30 amp circuit on #10 THHN Stranded just for the sub amp. I don't have any extra 18's laying around, none I would want to get rid of anyways.... Roughly 1000 watts per driver will be more than enough for what I am going to do.....

EP4000..... Amp will be under the floor, so no worries about fan noise....

05' XXX. I will build a stout baffle, vibration will not be an issue... Biggest thing with IB is having a Q high enough that the driver won't overdampen itself....

Also, look at the amount of ripple your 4th order vented box has, it should be much louder and more efficient over a majority of the audible band... That part isn't much of a mystery... The box in my Avatar metered 142 db with 150 watts (total) on a Termlab at the headrest. How? I modeled for a nasty 11db hump of ripple just above the resonance point... It was much louder and efficent, but sounded like crap below 40Hz...

In regards to the PR box, sweep it with test tones, try and go in 1Hz increments if you can, and see what frequency the passive moves the most and the woofer moves the least. Just make sure it is around 30Hz like you are predicting. If it is higher, you will need to add mass, if it is lower you will need to take away mass. You can do this in or out of the car, the cabin won't effect this. If you are tuned lower than you think, you will loose output higher, where most music is. If you are tuned way to high, you are operating well below resonance, unloading and loosing all kind of output as mentioned above. Here is the thing to think about in regards to overall Q of the driver. An easy way to explain it is the ability of the driver self-dampen. The lower the Q, the more the driver will dampen itself and the more you will require additional factors (Hemolitz resonation in the case of your vented and PR) to augment the output as you decrease frequency. The higher the Q, the less the driver self dampens and will have more output as you will decrease frequency without additional factors like a Hemolitz resonator. In a nutshell, a driver with a higher Q that is put into an alignment with an additive effect of Hemolitz resonation will tend to exxagerate it's output as you decrease frequency. this can be a bad thing. You can have over excursion issues, increased ripple and group delay. Sometimes a driver will model super flat and super low in a decent sized vented box if it is a high Q driver, in practice the resluts may not be as favorable. Save the high Q drivers for sealed boxes or IB, that is where they will perform optimally. The higher Q alows the driver to have decent output down low due to no over dampening the alignment. If you PR sounds more like a sealed box, something may be wrong, or the ported box you were comparing it too was also way wrong... Hope this helps...

Ok, here is my problem... We are running Foscam wireless IP cameras on our G network at home for monitors in our girls room. I have been running one for over a year now without issue, and bought a second for our infants room. Wireless network is running WAP2/AES encryption. Last night I programmed the second camera via the hardwired LAN. Everythin worked fine, I was able to assign an IP, get the camera working and verify all options and operation. I duplicated every parameter of the current functioning camer except fot the alias and IP. When I went to enter the encrption key and re-boot the device prior to taking it off the hardwired LAN and going WIFI, the camera erases the last 2 digits of my encryption key and won't go WIFI. This is the same key I have been using for years on my network and the other camera, multiple laptops and any guest we have has never had an issue. Only difference in the cameras is that the newer one has a few versions newer firmware... Ideas?

OK, figured it out. The newer firmware camera would delete anything after a "#" when you assigned the share key. So I changed the router share key and every other stupid POS I had hooked up to the new key and, bang.... Everything works fine... Go figure... Think there is a glitch in the later firmware....

Thanks. I was up untill 1 this morning fucking with it.... I'll try wiping the whole thing clean...

It shorted it on it's own. It's an eleven digit key. I can put nothing in, it will update it. I can type 12345678901, it will update that. I just won't update my current key when I type it in. It chops the 2 digits off. I am like WTF... I guess I could change the master key at the router and then change everything else, but WTF? Why should I have to do that... It has to be some weird issue I am totally missing...

I'll take some pics with what I have to work with this weekend. As a side note- I have been exploring what the possibe behavior of the XXXs will be in an IB install. I was concerned about IB performance due to the higher Fs, but with the displacement they have, I think it will be a mute point. They have a relitively high Q, almost .6 when I measured them 6 years ago, and a stiff suspention, so I think they should be OK without any Eq. Also, I will be mounting them face down, so when I calculated static sag based on mms and compliance, they should have an additional millimeter or two of positive offset. Not that it is much, but it may help in an extreme output situation. Also, I will be running an honest 7-800 watts per driver, so I should still be OK on all but retarded levels....

I am looking for a new 5 or 6 channel amp. I need flexible, decent crossovers to run active. Power isn't super critical. High quality is priority #1... Size #2 and Cost would be my lowest at #3. Any reccomendations?

I have built about 10 boxes with the Neo 8s and regular 8s. My dad is currently running 4 of the neos 8s, and has been off a MMATS 2200 DHC for the last 7 years... My best alignment has been .3-.4 ft3 each @ 30Hz. They really get down. The Neos have a very tough suspention and don't bottom easily... BTW, my dad had been wanging those neos at full tilt this whole time... He is deaf in one ear and can't even tell when to shift unless he looks at the tach... That may give you an idea of the durability of these subs....

Take that ^^^ with a grain of salt. Seriously. Use your head.....

The Leviathan looks like it will fit the bill perfect. All the features I want. Thanks for the link. I have some research to do. From what I have read so far, Zed looks like a quality product.....

The amp won't work, but damn, I am glad you showed me that thread, I am going to take his 18s off his hands if he'll let me....

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't it a plastic rod in the center? And since this is DC, there obviously doesn't need to be a test to show marketing BS here...

I haven't doudle checked your math, but the indicated volume and tuning will be fine. Sub will be pretty efficient in a box that size, too...

The welding cable is better quality than all car audio power cable....