95Honda

Here is a link to more pics- http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/7037315/2/mustang/stereo-sept-2011?h=840c67 I am at work and cannot open the link, if someone feels so inclined, I wouldn't mind a bit if they were posted...

Sorry, should have phrased as some of "the best" http://www.stereophile.com/floorloudspeakers/909 And the marking jargon makes it sound like it is a common space, but I have seen one open.... It is a common space, lol....

Well, if one is 1.4 ohms per coil, it can be wired to .7 ohms or 2.8 ohms. If the other is 2 ohms per coil it can be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. You could wire them togther for about .4 ohms or about 1.8ish respectively, keeping power similarly distrubuted. Additionally, are these impedance ratings you listed or DCR you checked yourself? Those two things are different.... Either way, it would sound fine if you build the box(s) right (big if here) and wire everything up right... Or just save yourself a possible headache and get matching drivers....

OK, he had the Q 10 installed and everything buttoned up. The install shop did a great looking job. I will post pics up tonight. But, my buddy is complaining about a complete lack of output from the 10, and I am worried about how the install shop set everything up. I will work over the phone (ugh) helping my buddy be sure they set it up like I said... They told him Zed amps aren't 2 ohm stable, so I am worried they wired the sub up in series on one channel... (sub is dual 2)... They also told hin Zed amps don't put out anywhere near rated power, blah blah blah.... He told me the sound quality is awesome, when he is sitting in the garage with the car off it sounds great. When the car is running, it can't keep up with the front stage at all... I need to just walk him through some setup. I am a bit dissapointed with the install shop though.... errhhh. Also worried about cancellation, box is forward firing about 1/3 into the cabin, you will see in the pics.... Work in progress....

You can do it, it would work. The final impedance will be whatever you choose to wire too. Additionally, no matter what anyone tells you, they won't fight each other (as long as you are above system resonance). Some of the most expensive speakers in the world put different size woofers (10" and 12" for example) in a common enclosure. Above resonance, they work in tandem, even if one is dissconnected... If one is getting 1/2 the power of the other, they still work in tandem, you just loose output. The higher power driver doesn't fight against the lower powered one... Is it a good idea? Probably would yield better results if they did not share a common airspace... All else being equal...

You have a loose wire or a coil that may be rubbing/shorting...

Wish I still had the pictures, but I painted a box for 2 of them with that exact alignment for Tal-n'-lanky (on SIN/CSO.org). I put like 10 coats of automotive enamel and wet sanded it until you could use it as a mirror...

They get warm when alot of power goes through the driver. It has nothing to do with gain settings, clipping or anything else. Check the DCR when the driver is ice cold, or at least an hour or so after you play it last. This will give you a correct reading. Also, touch the leads of your DMM together, whatever you get (.1 etc) subtract that from the reading you get on the sub's voicecoil.

I always had good results with that driver running around 1/2 cubic foot tuned at 30Hz... No stuffing, you could line the walls with 1" or thinner fiberglass to cut mechanical noise if you felt inclined...

Did you change anything (anything!) about the wiring of your sub from before? Sounds like a low impedance/short circuit protect condition. Does it do this at low volume levels? If so, it has nothing to do with input DC lvoltage evel....

The battery (-) terminal. Or the RCA ground if that doesn't work. Under NO condition connect anything but a speaker to the (-) speaker output!!!! You could fry the output stage of the amp if you ground out the speaker (-) terminal!!!

IPOD is waste of time, if you unhook the RCA's and the noise stops, it will not be there with an IPOD.

There is a difference in ground potential between the equipment. The current travels on the RCA's to try and level out the difference. There is an AC component in the current from your alternator and that makes it through the coupling of the different amplifier stages. Only way to get rid of this is to equalize ground potential. If you have a long piece of say 4 awg cable, hook it up to the HU ground and your amp that is making the noise. Keep the original grounds in place. If the noise drastically decreases or goes away entirely, you will have to find a way to permanently do this. Could mean a big piece of 4 awg. This is the problem 99% of the time if the equipment isn't bad (broken). Also, when you use this cable, don't be afraid to try it on a few different ground points of the source (h/U). You could try touching it to the case or the RCA grounds (outside, not the center pin). Good luck.

^^ TC sounds is making a new version of the NRT 18. Has the motor....... They are expensive, but I payed $750 each for the NRT 18s 6 years ago..... Pretty much all versions of that sub (seismic systems, North Creek, 1808, NRT, etc) were almost a grand.... Hell, Wilson audio used a modified version in one of there monster (like 1000lb) home audio subs....

I do remember dealing with a guy in California, now that you mention it. I think they were just drop shipped from China... Killer subs though, I think they are still cranking away to this day....

Moron parents don't get thier kids vaccinated..... There is a reason why there aren't thoudands of kids in wheelchairs or iron lungs these days....

If your buddy doesn't want to spend the $$, for about 1/2 as much as the recones he could get some Eminence 18s that would match the Auras about 50 Hz or so. They just won't be close on the last octave or so. Not even marginally close....

Even the set of 4 NRT 18s I bought in 2006 came straight from China.....

If you are going to go through the trouble of modeling, it is a complete waste of time to use the T/S parameters of another sub, no matter who tells you.... Also, saying a sub is "special" and doesn't model well is only true if you don't know how to use your modeling software....

^^ It is the same with batteries, if you are talking ESR (resistance)......

I bought 7 or 8 of those amps when they were first blowing them out almost 7 years ago. They were the same price then, a bery good deal. I haven't heard anything negative about them since I installed them.

Looks like one of the top windings shorted out on the cover somehow....

Problem is, there are a lot of missconceptions about T-lines in the car audio industry. To be a true transmission line, there cannot be any appreciable volume behind the driver before the line. If there is, the line is no longer coupled directly to the driver and instead to the volume the driver is exciting. The line then acts as a Hemolitz resonator and not a transmission line. There isn't anything wrong with this, it just isn't a T-line anymore. Additionally, a T-line is completely non-resonant and does not have a tuning frequency. This is because it does not resonate, it instead provides a phase shift on the bottom end just before the line length determains cut-off. This is why it isn't tuned. If your response shows a tuning with similar impedance peaks to a vented box, you know it isn't acting like a T-line, but a Hemolitz Resonator. What we should do is get the terminology straight as to not confuse people. The OP's box is a vented alignment, not a T-line. This doesn't mean it won't perform well, if not great. It isn't anyhtiing to get upset over, just the facts.

There are no positives to strapping amplifiers unless you have have a serious impedance problem (you can't get the load you desire). Even then, when strapping, you loose effeciency, loose dampening, add an extra gain stage (distortion), etc.... It's a manufacture #s game really.... Ohm's law doesn't change, as mentioned. If you don't change the wiring config (impedance) of the drivers, everything stays the same at the same voltage drive...

^^ It is really doesn't matter what you feed each coil. The only reason you want them matched is so that one amp doesn't run out of steam before the other. You could give one coil 1 watt and the other 1000 watts, as long as you don't exceed the thermal rating, it doesn't make a bit of difference. Strapping (bridging) is pointless most of the time anyway. Efficiency drops, dampening drops and if you are trying to squeeze the lowest possible load out, you are just reducing parts life dramatically....