95Honda

#1 The un-weighted Fs will have nothing to do with the overall outcome of your alignment. This is the Fs without adding any weight, and you will/can change this. #2 The power rating of a sub has nothing whatsover to do with the passive radiator requirments. You need to shoot for a passive radiator that will have roughly 2X the displacment of the active driver at full output. The Dayton 15 will just about do this, the TC 15 will definetly do this and the TC 12 will just about do this also. The signle Dayton 12 will not come close, a pair would be about the minimum. All this assumes you are going to use enough power to get full stroke out of the driver. If you are just going to use a few hundred watts or so, than any of the combos will work and you won't have to worry about a thing..

One of these- http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-142 Or 2 of these- http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-140 One of these if you have a big budget- http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=293-680

Welding cable is the best cable out there for car audio. It is also usually the cheapest... The only way Knu makes any sense is if you are getting the pure copper stuff at a price much less than welding cable, because it isn't near the quality.

^^ And that's if your lucky.... What most people think is "clipping" is parts banging into stuff. It is very hard to hear clipping, especially with music.... And clipping doesn't make pop or clank sounds.... Most rap music is so compressed that the bass lines are already clipped in the recording....

Found a pic. Small square hole above the woofer hole is the vent. Was for a 10" sub.

There was pics, it looked pretty nice actually....

www.forceaudio.com/home-audio-speaker...and.../heavy-metal/ Can't view the link from work, but it was a thread titled "heavy metal"

No, I had a bunch of plate laying around and was practicing TIG welding. I had posted it on Forceaudio, I'll see if I can dig up the link....

I have used metal tubes in the past. Worked fine. I built a solid aluminum box out of 1/8" plate stock with an aluminum port. It was about 1.5ft3. Worked fine.

Does that amp have multiple small fuses? If so, they are all connected in parrellel and you need to pull them all to shut it off. Your second problem is like said above with your remote, or the remote turn on cicruit in your amp isn't un-latching....

Be carefull. You don't hear a "clip". You hear soft parts banging into things.....

Be carefull. You don't hear a "clip". You hear soft parts banging into things.....

^^ Yep. Belive it or not, I use the $1.50 ones, can't remember the part number, but that are the simple 2-piece solder only ones. The only time I use locking ones is when I am going to connect to female leads hanging off the back of the deck under the dash...

That is the exact stuff I use. The fabric filler is a little of a pain to cut back, and the insulation is very low temp stuff so be carefull or you will melt it very easy. As far as quality wise though, these are better than any car audio cable at any price, period. These days I evaluate multi-billion dollar systems for the military. I work directly with engineers during development. These guys are magnitudes higher in education and experience than many in the car audio arena. These products they design have to work, 100% of the time. I pay close attention and pick as many brains as possible when it comes to these types of things (shielding, wiring, power supplies, etc). I base my design and construction on what I see that works....

I use the mic cable with a woven copper shield, can't remember the part number. On the source end you connect the shield to your ground (the shield and - wire are soldered together to the RCA body), on the other end you cut the shield back and don't connect it...

There is no shield on that cable, so hooking that wire up on one end won't do anything. Actually, it isn't a drain wire either, it is just a 3rd conductor that isn't insluated. It is for ground in a balanced system. Drain wire is only used inside a shield, usually foil type... I have been a Ground Radio tech for the last 14 years, well RF trans systems now....

Does it have a shield with a drain wire? Is the shield foil or stranded? I just use the Dayton brand from Parts Express. I used Mogami exclusively back in the day when I could get it cheap through work. It was also excellent cable. Really, any good quality microphone cable that is at least 24 awg with a full stranded shield is the best way to go. I worked for Audioprism for 5 years before I joined the Air Force. We built $25K tube amps. The head engineer, Victor Tiscareno, was a brilliant RF engineer. In fact, the Audioprism indoor FM antennas were some of the best ever made, they are snatched up instantly when on the used market. Anyway, Victor knows more about RFI/EMI than anyone I have met. He designed some of the best power filers ever made. He also taught me about shielding.

I use microphone twisted pair cabling for all my car audio signal cables. It is the best to use and here is why: The Dayton cable I buy uses decent copper of sufficent gauge with a tight twist. I use the outer conductor as an electrostatic shield. What this means is that the outer shield is only connected at the source end and brings all RFI/EMI back to that point. If your source end is grounded correctly, this eliminates virtually all noise induced on the cable. If the shield is connected at both ends, it doesn't work this way. You can't do this with coax or simple twisted pair. Some very high end cables will have a directional marking, this is why. Not because the signal will flow better one way. This is by far the highest performance you can get with single-ended low level signal cables in an automotive environment... Also, the quality of the components does not effect performance as much as method of cable construction and use. I use Parts Express ends, for what it's worth.... I would use anything else that is cheaper if it were as good...

Might be looking into a swap for a more efficient woofer if the HU doesn't help enough...

Plan A is trying a different headunit with adjustable sub out. I think this is hurting things right now. Plan B will be trying to find out it there is indeed cancelation problems that can be solved. Plan C is a pair of Minotaurs.... A little overkill, but would probably help output. Would be 4X the power... what can I say, he likes Zed... I will keep you guys in the loop as things progress....

The gound loop isolator is band-aid fix. You have a different ground potential.

It's going to be a challenge either way. And yes, moving things around will be very tough. They did a very nice job with the install....

Thing is, a 10" with 600 watts should be plenty for what he wants.... I really think something may be screwy with the way the sub loads. I am probably going to have him try and secure a large board in front and see if anything changes.... Try and break up a mode that is causing this. Also going to have him move around in the back and see if he can find a real hot spot in output.... See, I have never loaded a sub in a an open car that way, let alone in the middle facing forward. it looks really nice, but goes against my past success formula.... Changing loading and listening around may be the trick... I dunno, we'll see...

It is just that the way my buddy is describing it, something is definetly wrong. Additionally, he has a good set of ears. He also has decent refence system for comparison, wich realy makes things alot easier....

Believe it or not 600 watts is alot of power, especially for non SPL type system. Something is wrong with the setup/install. I just have to figure out what...