95Honda

The better your electrical, the more power you will have on tap and the warmer your subs will get....

I set up the 6 channel. Not much to play with really, I would try and target what Focal uses in the passive. Also, the knobs don't indicate the frequency very precisely. May need to measure to verify.

That is a large difference compared to the others. A 1/10th of an omh variance wouldn't worry me, 1/2 of an ohm or more would.... Just like stated above^^

Craigslist..... Ugghh... I have had a motorcycle on there for about a month now, looking to upgrade... Anyway, even with my disclaimer about scammers in huge capital letters at the beginning of the add, I get 2-3 a week trying to do the Paypal scam.... I used to report them to Craiglslist and the local PD each time, but I am sick of it. I now send this canned message each time- "Sir- Here is the deal. I will accept your Paypal payment and you may send your private shipper to my house to pick up the motorcycle. There is one catch though. If any Eastern European/Carribean/Shady motherfucker shows up at my house BEFORE the Paypal payment has cleared and sat in my bank account for a minimum of 7 buisness days, I will shoot them. I won't ask any questions. If there is anyone with them, I will shoot them too. This isn't a joke, I am not making idle threats. I am the wrong guy to fuck with. So if you still want to press ahead, send the money to [email protected]". I will be happy to give you the motorcycle once the money is clearly in my hands and cannot be withdrawn. Thank you, -Mike Edgar" I don't get shit after I send this out....

You are doing something wrong, period.

Pretty much... Anything else is a waste of $$. And an inferior product. My opinion though... So take it for what it is...

Just don't waste your money on anything but welding cable.... Good rule of thumb is, if it has a gay name with a bunch of "K"s, "C"s or "X"s where they don't belong, don't buy it.....

The plastic cups are garbage (all of them), running bolts and nuts is ghetto, and I think some amplifier output stages have been trashed because of them..... Use the knock through kind in the bottom of the picture above ^^. They work the best and are worth the extra few bucks. I prefer the satin finish ones from PartsExpress. Additionally, I run a set for each woofer for wiring flexibility. The box below has 8 woofers and 8 sets of those posts.

I don't know about that probe. Anything Fluke is going to be decent. I have an 87, and have always been happy. High quality and no problems. I had my personal one calibrated at work and it met all standards, it was also 4 years old...

See what you can get an Fluke 87 for. Overkill, but worth the $300-$400 they go for... True RMS also, up to about 400Hz I think... Look at an external clamp for the 87 also....

Sealed boxes don't always have better mechanical power handling, especially above resonance (where they are intended to operate) of a vented alignment. Actually, sealed boxes often require more stroke, more distortion and greater thermal compression.... But sealed alignments are easier to build and get a flatter response out of. The debate on merits of each will go on for ever. I prefer vented most of the time because I do mostly home audio, and size isn't ever of concern... I have built probaly 100 sealed aligments in the past 20 years, so I wouldn't say I am totally biased...

A vented box is a 4th order. Do you mean a 4th order bandpass? If so, then a bandpass can have higher efficiency over a smaller bandwidth... That's about it in a nut shell.

You will get more output, all else being equal, with a vented alignment. Sounds like that is all you want.

If you aren't sure of this, you are going to probably have a lot of problems. A 6th order bandpass has more aspects that can go wrong than pretty much any other enclosure design...

I am about 20 min away. Pm you my phone #

^^ Dampening doesn't help with standing waves/reflections pretty much at all below 100Hz or so... Kind of a missconception.... You mostly dampen in a ported box to atenuate harmonics and mechanical noise, you use it large amounts to change the Q is a sealed box...

I have a pair of 8 ohm MJ18s. I am designing a Zobel for them at the moment and cannot find the published Le of these anywhere. I also don't have access to my Suncor LCR meter at the moment.... Does anyone know off-hand what it is?

You see it in a lot of Pro Audio stuff. Check out the Bag End BASSAULT-R www.bagend.com It is fucking retarded, I installed a pair of them about 7 years ago.....

Thanks. Kind of what I figured with the size of the coil. probably going to start with around 7 ohms and 100 ufd and measure.... Will be crossing them around 300Hz 1st order, so I think it will be needed... I am building 3-ways with Eminence 10" Beta Coaxs, pretty much copying the Adire Hurricane design. I think it will be perfect for my Garage. Big, vented and efficient...

I have never had any issues with David. He has always treated me good. He has built me several subs that are still working perfect. I have dealt with him for about 7-8 years now. I was speaking to a mutual friend this morning (of David and I). He has been to PSI, says he was very impressed and said David has his shit together. My 2 cents, for what it's worth...

He is going to have the box detached so he can move it around and experiment.

OK, so kind of got sidetracked with other projects. I will be finishing my garage over Christmas break. The I will have some decent room to build all the IB stuff. As for another project for the garage, I am building a large set of 3-ways. I have a pair MJ18s I bough off here a few months ago. I also have a set of Eminence Beta 10 coax's with ACD compression drivers. I am going to build a set of Adire Hurricane clones, I will just have to tweak a few parts for the MJ18 (Zobel) and the ACD tweeter (attenuation). These will be big, vented efficient boxes... Should be perfect for pounding out some tunes... Pretty sure they will stay un-finished MDF... Probably run them off an Adcom 200 WPC amp I have....

^^ Unless you have measured the impedance over the entire frequency range of your sub system, you have no idea what your impedance is. It is probably an ohm or two higher than you think.

I haven't had MDF split in years with screws, just use the appropriate pilot hole. I have never seen a need for plywood unless weight is of absolute concern. MDF surface preps better, machines better and is more uniform than plywood. Hell, I tap MDF regularly and use coarse thread machine screws for driver mounting. When you brace appropriately and build thick enough, you will never see the performance advantage of plywood.

^^ Yep. Your particular alignment will have an impedance curve. You can measure this or if you have relaible software, can model it for the most part.