95Honda

Buy 1/0 copper. Don't waste your money on CCA.

That is almost the quickest and cleanest way to do the port. I do it all the time. I use a 1 1/2" long flush cut router trim bit. Takes about 60 seconds after you drill the plunge hole and is 100% perfect every time.... It also gives the strongest outer baffle layer. The vents in the picture took about a minute each. They are huge and that is one solid baffle.

There is nothing wrong with running them in the same chamber, they won't "fight" other, in fact they will work together (above resonance) even if one othem isn't getting the same amout or any power... Is it going to give optimum performance? No. They both have slightly different T/S parameters and will work best in an enclosure specifically tailored to suit. That is the best answer I can give.

You cannot set the gain properly using that formula (or chart) because you have an undefined variable (impedance). This is the whole point. Read what I posted carefully, it will make sense if you break it down.

05 XXX motor still a benchmark I use....

No, that formula only has one variable, voltage, in order to work correctly. You are adding a second variable, impedance. You have no idea what this variable is. It isn't 2 ohms, ever. No matter what subs you have. This is because a subwoofer is a reactive load and fluctautes impedance costantly at varying frequency/temp/enclosure. Again, you cannot measure power with a single DMM alone into a reactive load. Save your DMM for something else.

You can't use that formula with speakers, it will only work into a non-reactive load. Save the DMM for something else.

They do look like a toolbox.... But, that doesn't bother me. Build a nice case/hold down for it and it will look like what it is.. All buisness... It is like welding cable.... Looks like buisness, nothing else. And if your talking SPL, it is about buisness. Pretty colors don't add db's just like gay-ass NOS/Borla/K&N stickers don't add horsepower...

^^ Would agree 100%

My guess is that would probably work good. It is alot of battery. But again, it is made by a large company that makes a ton of batteries without a bunch of cool stickers on them, that is why it is $200 and not $500....

I tend to also want to see published data. But I think it is a mute point with a majority of car audio, as most don't publish this, so you don't have references to compare. This isn't discounting the fact that many manufacturers, many on this site, strive to produce low-distortion, cutting edge products. They are just keeping overhead down at this point at the cost of data to people like me and you...

What is YOUR opinion of the one that I posted? Honsetly, I don't know, I have never used those.... When I have had to use a sealed battery that could be mounted however, I just bought the Orbital (I think I was getting them at NAPA). Otherwise, I watch for sales at Cosco and go for an Optima, I got the last yellow top for $125 with coupons... But these are far and few between sales. Bought some "demo model" (watever that meant) Red tops at Batteries Plus for about $100 a few years ago... But seriously, just use common sense. Buy a big-ass battery at a place where you can return it if things don't work out...

Just go to the battery rack and look for the big yellow bastard that is about the size of small microwave... Pay your $100 and wang away... Keep the other $238 you have left for more important stuff, like gas...

CCA? I dunno, about 1000. Who cares anyway, buy 2. Or 4. lol... Still less than a single "car audio" battery most of the time. That is the point. It is like buying "car audio" power cable instead of welding cable.... Pay more for less, seriously...

You will never, ever have an issue with a non-sealed battery. It is almost an urban legend, right up there with the NOS bottle exploding, seriously... The amount of Hydrogen they might produce pales in comparison to the amount of air volume in your car, even if it was perfectly sealed off from the outside world, wich is never the case, unless you drive an old bug or a $100K+ sedan.... Even then, seriously? And if you smoke, like you give a shit about your life anyway, lol.... Seriously, Hydrogen build up?

I think "car audio" batteries are a waste of money. You can go to Walmart and get 2X the Ah for about 1/2 the price... They will just weigh a little more. And if they don't recover from some hard abuse and get back to a float level you want, you just take them back. As many times as you want. Seriously. And they are about 30 min max from where you live... We used to swap out 5 at time before a competition. No questions asked. 5 new batteries fully charged... They sell one big fucker that is about $100 that is a monster, can't remember the part #... Or just piss away extra money on a "car audio" battery.... Just my opinion, of course

That always instills a ton of confidence....

The last, I mean the absolute last place, you should look at for box building is youtube. You are better off finding a homeless person and asking him for pointers... Seriously.

Turn off your caps lock. Post your max dimensions and maybe someone will help you.

No sub comes alive at a certain point. Every sub made gets progressively worse in performance as power increases over 1 watt.

Guys, LEDs will forward bias off an AC signal, you don't need DC for them to work..... I would delete/edit your video. There are about 10 billion of them operating off of 60Hz in all types of nice Christmas colors as we speak....

Just remember, no copper wire you can feasibly put in the car will have less resistance than the frame. Most people just don't bond to the frame properly...

Your have a myriad of options as to what final impedance you can wire to. You can run any impedance of similar drivers in a common enclosure. If one driver gets 25 watts and the other 3 get 725 watts, it doesn't matter. They all work together above enclosure resonance. The main problem with this is overall efficiency. You'll never match the power between subs close enough to operate at optimal efficiency. But again, you can't hurt anything by doing this. My advice would be to get rid of a pair and/or recone them to match. All else being equal, this will more than likely give you the best results.

I like those little speakers. I have built/copied/sold about 15 pairs...

That probably isn't enough room for a proper bandpass. I haven't modeled it, but that is my gut feeling. It may work if you could budge a little on size and have most of the vent located outside of the box...