95Honda

B&C here: http://www.zaphaudio.com/8test/

It is in the execution and driver quality. Anything Pyle, and anything with a "supertweeter" is going to sound like ass. Some of the more reputable manufacturers (Eminence higher end stuff, RCF, B&C) make drivers that sound and measure better than "car audio" offerings. They are usually more efficient. THis sometimes comes at the expense of low end extension. Again, most people throw this crap together to be loud, not sound good. It is like going to Walmart and expecting the 25yr old meth addict that works in the Audio/Video section to help you pick the accesories for your H/T install and then wondering why nothing works...

I have been wanting to play with these since they came out: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-828 A set active with a few hundred watts and an efficent set of tweeters would be alright, might not sound horrible if executed right... I am not a fan of the horns though, I know alot of people like them, but I would still go for a higher efficiency, liquid cooled conventional driver, or something semi-horn like these: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=277-084 I used the MD-37's before, they were similar but with ferrofluid (iirc). They were bulletproof and very loud... Bottom line, nothing is going to keep up with 4 18s and 20K at fulltilt, except for those retarded South American walls of sound for Carnival... You also have to realize you are looking at at least $1K for the front stage if you want to do anything decent, and this assumes mediocre amplifers/processing...

That is pretty high. This is where we tuned boxes 20 years ago and only had a few hundered watts to work with. We were also using tape decks alot and there was no real low bass... You will be OK if you have a SSF that will go that high, it isn't going to sound the best either. I would shoot more around 30Hz, if it were me...

Have you modeled it yet? Taking a stab with a ratio of ported to sealed and choosing a vent is meaningless. Just going by the ratio is very meaningless. You need to get the T/S parameters of those drivers and plug-n-chug in a modeling program. This is the only way you can see if what you are doing is going to work.

jerejkullman: You sound/look like a spammer, don't go posting BS on this forum! Seriously, don't be a fuckstick...

Depending on the compliance, most subwoofers can be destroyed with a few hundred watts below tuning in a vented enclosure. This is why we have Sub Sonic Filters. Additionally, you have an amplifer that could almost produce two times the power the subwoofer is thermally rated at. So really, you could have blown it in a myriad of ways.

The software is the easy part. Getting an accurate measuring device is the hard/expensive part...

Oh yeah, good catch... OP- Disgregard my 1st post...

I used a Term Lab. Problem is, they won't read anything under 120db (IIRC, and this was 8 years ago). But mine would do 120+ @ 20Hz @ the listening position, so this wan't an issue... You can also get cheap handheld meters. But accuracy is a crap-shoot...

John- You hang around of alot of mechanics, right? Is there any way you can get ahold of an hand held temp sensor? The one with a laser you don't have to touch anything with. If you can, get a couple of readings of your amp when it shuts down... Want to see what your heat sink temp is...

Check out AudioControl.

If you apply more than the RMS rating (regardless of signal) over a sustained time, you will cause thermal failure. Simple as that.

As of 10 AM this morning everything is headed to the West Coast via FedEx. $256 ground, lol... 200lbs total... So the next update will be the system installed by a local shop outside of Seattle. We'll get some pictures up then. Thanks for all the comments. It was a fun build and I am happy with the end product. I don't think I would change much...

Sucks. You have a shitload of power and strong electrical, so when this type of thing happens, it happens full-out...

Whoa, take a deep breath. I merely suggested you take a little time and write clearly. You get the same effort in response you get into question. Being in a hurry is no reason to type like crap. People have to decifer what you are trying to get across... I'll still help regardless of how you type... The only thing that determains minimum vent area is driver displacement and power. That is it. If you want to figure this out, model for vent velocity and change power input. You will see the correlation. You can also change driver Sd and see the same thing. You don't need to be a smartass, either.

If your electrical is up to par, it makes no difference...

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/55861-a-well-though-out-15-mayhem-build/page__fromsearch__1

Well, I just finished a build for one, "Well though out Mayhem build". I went with 4tf3 @ 32Hz as Brian suggested. Model the driver, that will answer any other questions you have...

There is no relation between enclosure volume and port area. None at all. Hey, just a suggestion, clean up your grammar if you want to be taken seriously...

Your are probably OK. That is a lot of amplifiers and processors... The voltage out of the deck will be the same as the nominal input voltage (your battery voltage) The voltage required to turn on most amps will be from around 7-9V on up, depending on circuit. None need exactly 12V or more... If you are worried about the current draw and want to use a relay, try and choose one with a primary coil resistance greater than 75 ohms. You will wire the feed from any 12V source as the turn on circuit is isolated form the amplifier. If you ever had noise from running a switch like you described either the instal or equipment was faulty, that is the only way this will happen. Good luck and I hope this helps!

That is the issue, some relays out there how a low enough coil resistance that they will pull close to your 500ma.... I have measured some in the 20-30 ohm range, this can be far worse than the remote trigger circuit of any amp...

Got everything mounted and cables installed. The power wire is not connected yet as the final installer in Seattle will take care of that. They will also mount the cables neatly to the cabinet. I went ahead and put expandable sheaths over everything with heatshrink to clean up the ends. The equipment only sits about 3/16" off the cabinet wall because I countersunk the rubber isolators in so deep. Also, the pig tail that connects to the XLR cable on the car side isn't shown. It is also cover in expandable sheath and looks real nice. All in all she is really clean, looks great. Will be super simple to take in and out. Pictures don't do it justice as usual and my shop is a mess right now...

You should do your homework first. You need to decide on your relay, most will choose a 30 amp Bosch. If this is the case you need to consider that the coil resistance of the relay may be low low enough that it pulls more current from your deck's power turn on lead than say 4 or 5 amps and processors combined... Figure between 50-75 ohms on the coil, so you need to do the math to decided if it is a good idea. Many times people install one of these relays and actually pull more current from the deck than they would without it becuase they never actually thought about what they were doing... They also wasted money and made things overly complex... If you actually have more current draw from all you devices than the deck can supply (unlikely unless you have a ton of shit) and you need a relay, you need to factor the coil primary resistance in when figuring out if your deck will be OK driving. Some decks will not be happy operating a standard 30 amp Bosch...

There is no correct "rule of thumb" for port area vs. box volume. Port area is determained by driver displacment and power, not box size.... With that 10 at full power a 4" ID PVC pipe or roughly 12 in2 of area will be fine for just about anything you throw at it... You can add more area, but will get diminishing returns... WinISD only gives you a ridiculous port area if you look for a ridiculoulsy low vent velocity... When you are in a truck cab, normally firing the drivers and/or port off the back wall or sides near th eback usually nets highest SPL. If you load into the center of the cabin, you tend to get less output. Hope this helps...