95Honda

Like I said HE10's would be the way to go. I am building a set of Hurricanes for my garage (HE10's + 18" subs in each cabinet) right now. 95db efficiency and healthy bottom end. A set would tear a dorm room down. Pair them with a 2KW Behringer amp and you'd have the whole thing for about a grand... PM me your email and I'll send you PDFs of the plans...

Oh, and we used Mega Mix (2-live crew) on a tape deck for demos in the early 90s... Hissing loud as f**k between tracks... lol...

Wow. I remember using a ton of the XTRs in the early 90's... Weren't those the blue dust cap for SVC and red for DVC??? I probably owned/installed 10 or 20 of them, lol... Those and the original Punch, Lanzars and Hollywoods, lol... Look at the T/S parameters of those subs. They weren't low end monsters... Low xmax, mid range Fs and qts that didn't lend well to tons of bottom end sealed without decent cabin gain. I think you will be much happier with what is availible now, especially for that last octave with a single sub. One of the newer 12s you are looking at has more displacment than any 15 a decade ago, and that is really what counts on the bottom octave. FWIW, we swapped out 6 JL W5 15s in a sealed wall in my cousin's 1972 Chevelle for some Adire Tempests about 9 years ago. The Tempests aren't anything near as good as what you are looking at. The W5's were almost a decade old when we did the swap. He picked up almost 10 db on the Termlab around 20Hz.... Food for thought...

What does handling 1000 watts have to do with anything?

Well figure double what you already have then...

I didn't run your dimensions through a calculator so I don't know how accurate your calculations are. It makes no difference how much the port is inside or outside of the enclosure, except for the difference in enclosure volume, obviously...

They don't have internal fuses. You need to make roughly 20KW to feed four of those amps at full tilt. That would be about 1500 amps maximum draw on a 12V system. So you need the battery capacity and a way to charge them. This will be expensive....

2nd try on the pics...

Last system I helped with for a dorm room used a set of knock-off Adire HE10s for the top and an Earthquake Magma 15 on the bottom with a plate amp. Everything including a reciever was well under $1K. It was very loud. I have the HE10 and HE12 plans in PDF if you want them....

Arbitrarily picking volumes and port dimensions without modeling is completely pointless... There are no "set" ratios. Every driver requires a different combination of enclosure parameters.

Hmmm, don't know why. I wanted you to see because I set the wall up in place of 3rd row seating, 2 row was still functional. Would be easy in your Suburban....

Walled in a 99' Durango... This was back in 2003/2004...

I ran 6 Tempests in 24ft @ 32Hz. Did 152.8 with 2200 watts... You will probably be louder with more power...

Will work just fine...

Turn you caps lock off. Annoying as hell...

A notch filter would be beneficial if you had a peak somewhere that needed to be tamed. But, you would need to know exactly where this peak was (with test equipment) and measure again to see if the filter you designed actually hit the peak. I have used notch filters for decades with passive crossovers. They are designed into the circuit when there is a an audible peak. Normally the filter has to be very precise (like taking an inductor and removing a few windings until it measures exact) to even work right. Additionally, I have to use acoustic measuring before and after. In other words, a lot of technical crap. Most of the time if you go active and have some sort of processing (eq) you can deal with these problems much easier thna doing it in the passive realm after the last amplification stage...

That 2nd magnet is for shielding, won't change the T/S too much on or off. But like others have said, it provides the seal for the volume that loads the tweeter. I would try a strong epoxy. Even JB weld. Clean things well first.

No matter how you set everything up you can smoke those subs with those amps(s). I would become firmiliar with what it sounds, feels and smells like to burn up your subs... Honestly, any gain setting tutorial will cause more harm than good for many people due to false security you'll have. This isn't an opinion, it is just a fact of the way electronics work...

There are seriously healthy 6.5"-7" drivers out there that will mate well and have plenty of output....

I would never run a 10 or 12 in a car as mid, horrible off axis...

Output.

I just hope everyone takes note that enclosure volume is not in your equation. Thank you for actually posting something usefull and objective about this question that comes up about every day...

The RMS rating of a subwoofer is the rated thermal limit of the voice coil. It has nothing to do with how loud a driver is, how much power it needs or how efficent it is. The most determaining factor in power requirment is enclosure, not RMS rating of the driver. The only reason an RMS rating is given is to simply let you know how much power a voice coil can accept on a continuos basis before thermal failure. Thats it, nothing else...

Just a little food for thought, the RMS is NOT a reccomendation for how much power you need. In fact, it has nothing to do with that whatsoever.

As long as it is acting like a port, it won't sound any different no matter the area until compression sets in. More port area does not equate to peakier response. Messing something else up in the mix is what will cause this. Aditionally, there is no correlation between box volume and vent area. At all.