95Honda
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Everything posted by 95Honda
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I run all of mine inside the walls and use decent looking gang plates where they go in/out...
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Ok, lol that isn't silver wire... Polyfill is used to change the Qtc of a sealed enclosure (make the woofer behave as if it is in a bigger box), it doesn't do the same thing to vented enclosures. You don't need to add any fill to a vented anclosure that only operates over the bottom 2 octaves. Use one of the suggested FI alignments or have someone help you with your box design.
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You can't "ohm it out to see what the amp is seeing". You can measure the DCR with a DMM, but this will be lower than the box impedance 95% of the time and doesn't give you any real idea of the load your amplifier will be presented... You need test equipment in addition to a DMM to measure impedance. There is no such thing as impedance rise. You are using pure silver speaker wire? What gauge? Last time I used solid silver it was Kimber Kable and was over $100 a foot...
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Class Ds pretty much perform similarly, buy what you can afford. Honestly, there isn't a huge difference in quality from amp to amp these days. There is no such thing as dirty power, underrated or overrated. The amplifiers put out a certain power before clipping, and that is usually pretty close to what they are supposed to do. When brand X makes a 1500.1 class D amp that puts out 1774 watts, it isn't overrated, it is a 1774 watt amplifier into the given load it was tested with. All class Ds have similar distortion and efficiency, there isn't huge differences in their topology from manufacturer to manufacturer. The more expensive amps have *only potentially* better quality parts than the cheaper ones. They may also have better QC to cut down on failures. Clipping doesn't hurt anything, it never has and never will. If it did, every speaker would blow if you listen to popular music, because it all has heavy clipping in one form or another... I have done exhaustive *objective* tests with this, more so than anyone on this board. You can destroy any subwoofer made with a 1900 WRMS class D amp if you try hard enough. Gain settings have nothing to do with, or will ever limit, total output power.
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If they are operating above the resonance point of the enclosure they will never cancel each other no matter the difference in power if they are in phase electrically. If one is getting 1 watt and the other is getting 100 watts of an identical signal, then you will get 101 watts worth of output. This is how output sums above resonance, regardless of individual power and even cone size... Your problems are caused by something other than the drivers receiving different power levels.
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It's not my knowledge, it is facts based on objective design since the 1940's dealing with this type of enclosure. Like I said before, pretty much all "car audio" T-lines aren't T-lines at all... And most "designers" aren't building T-lines, they are building something else... You need to pick up a copy of the Loudspeaker Design cookbook by Vance Dickson and get ahold of Martin King's T-line white papers before you listen to any car audio "experts" about T-lines as most of them are full of BS...
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Nobody said you can't have a T-line in a car. I have built several for car audio. Just don't expect to be putting a pair of 15's or an 18 in one without a huge enclosure. Your 10" driver may work in one, you just need to understand what you are going to end up with. Pretty much all "car audio" T-line enclosures aren't really T-lines, or they are severely miss-aligned... When people realize that the output will be marginally better at best than a sealed alignment, the reality sets in to what they are going to end up with. Also, I am not sure about the T/S parameters of your 10" driver, but it if has a fairly low Qts, it won't work well in a T-line due to it's self-dampening low end behavior. But like I said, I have no idea about that 10" driver... It is just important that you understand what goes into them, that is all.
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A T-line doesn't have a port, and is not a port, in fact it is completely non-resonant when executed correctly. A T-line doesn't have tuning. It has a cut-off frequency. Tuning refers to resonance, and again, a properly executed T-line is non resonant. A T-line will not have the efficiency of a 4th order vented box under any circumstances, this is do to the non-resonant nature of a T-line. It's efficiency will be between a 2nd order sealed enclosure and a 4th order vented enclosure, with most of it's efficiency being in the bottom octave. The line is roughly the Sd of the driver. There are certain ratios that will effect overall performance. A T-line that will reach down to at least 30Hz will be bigger than pretty much any 4th order vented box for the same driver(s). A T-line can be any shape. If there is any appreciable cabinet volume before the line, it isn't a T-line, and won't behave as one, no matter what anyone says. So, maybe this will clear a few things up for you...
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It's not larger, that is the problem. 0 awg CCW has the same cross-sectional area as 0 awg copper, therefore it doesn't have nearly the current capacity... It is larger only do to strand count and construction, not actual cross-sectional area increases...
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Weird Sine Wave from Amp, please help!!!
95Honda replied to mikebingham34's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
It is just a by-product of a class D amplifier. I kept asking about voltage level and frequency to verify this. There are frequencies very high (and many harmonics) in that amp and some make it through the output filter, 200 mv is negligible... 20V would have been an issue... The frequency was important as if it would have been in the subwoofer band, it may have pointed to a problem somewhere else... This is why it is important to know what you are looking at! -
CCA is a marketing gimmick. Hopefully you bought it for the color and not the performance...
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Weird Sine Wave from Amp, please help!!!
95Honda replied to mikebingham34's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Also, your xx/xx volume setting is only valid when you took the measurement. It is null and void once you change the CD, touch any EQ or the voltage in your car changes... Don't put any confidence in this measurement... -
Weird Sine Wave from Amp, please help!!!
95Honda replied to mikebingham34's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
OK, you said that waveform appears with no input, so how do you know it is 40Hz? There are two frequencies in your picture, you need to find out what they are. Do you understand how to look at the voltage of the waveform(s) you are looking at? I have a feeling you need to read your operating manual, I don't think you understand how to use your O-scope. You will have nothing useful to help yourself until you can figure out these ^^ things... -
That is a rookie mistake...
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Weird Sine Wave from Amp, please help!!!
95Honda replied to mikebingham34's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
On your picture, what two frequencies are being displayed? An is it 1V Pk-Pk? -
Weird Sine Wave from Amp, please help!!!
95Honda replied to mikebingham34's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
1 V Pk-Pk? Also what frequencies are they (I can't tell from the picture) and is it visible/audible with the subwoofer connected to the output? -
It's 1V Pk-Pk? Also what two frequencies is it (I can't tell in your picture)? And is it audible/visible when connected to the subwoofer? -
2x2.5k's or 1x5k?
95Honda replied to sexterra's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
There is no such thing as "box rise". Your alignment will have an impedance curve, this both rises and falls. It is varies with frequency. It will never be lower than total DCR. There is no advantage to a pair of amplifiers vs a single one, when driving the same impedance. It is whatever works out best for you. There can be the disadvantage of a loss in dampening with a strapped pair, this will lower the control of the woofers and may effect sound quality. -
If you can't drill the holes right, other stuff is probably jacked up also, lol...
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1/4-20 black oxide socket head capscrew with Hurricane nuts. If you drill your holes right, you can take the driver in and out unlimited times without anything getting messed up.
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Your amp can produce a 1700 watt sine wave. It can produce up to 2X that if it isn't a sine wave. It all depends on what you send into it and how much you ask out of it. If the power supply can support it, it could easily produce over 3Kw under certain circumstances...
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That amplifier is capable of producing more power than the RMS rating of the subwoofer. You probably exceeded the thermal capacity of the driver.
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I will depend on the kind of deal I can get a new flatscreen for. A projector seems more and more appealing in this situation though...
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Still on the backburner... lol...
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If you wire the coils out of phase, you will still measure the proper DCR, phase relation won't change this. If the subwoofers had motors that were knocked out of alignment during shipping, you would have noticed this initially if you know you are doing, this is part of inspecting mail order items for damage. If the cone can move back and forth when you push on it slightly the motor is more than likely fine. Normally, you can lightly press on each quadrant of the outer cone edge (0°, 90°, 180°, 270°) and see if rub is felt/heard with similar pressure. If one quadrant really scrapes easily before another, the coil and motor are out of alignment. Be careful doing this and don't ruin the soft parts... Good luck...